I'm desparate for shower construction help, please!
cmc_in_sf
15 years ago
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weedyacres
15 years agobill_vincent
15 years agoRelated Discussions
I'm new! Need constructive criticism on my floor plan.
Comments (10)I have to respectfully disagree with some of what shifrbv writes. 1) Yes, long span joists are costly, but a rectangular box is still the least expensive shape to build. I do agree with shifrbv tho that you appear to be going overboard on the "open floor plan" idea. Some interior walls that could also serve as support walls for the second floor would reduce your costs significantly by allowing you to use much smaller joists. And, some interior walls would make your home much more liveable. As it is now, your downstairs lacks any areas where a person could have a little bit of privacy or a couple could hold a quiet private conversation. Imagine adults trying to visit in the great room while a bunch of kids play in the playroom? Or part of the family trying to watch TV while someone in the kitchen is using the blender? Total chaos! Too much openness can be a very bad thing. Studies have even shown that productivity in the workplace is significantly lower in "open plan" offices as compared to traditional offices with walls separating offices. I think it is better to have a nice mix of open spaces and some "quiet niches." 2) Framing in multiples of 16" or 24" to save on lumber really doesn't save all that much. No matter how carefully, you design your exterior walls to perfectly fit 4ft wide sheets of plywood and/or OSB, the interior walls WON'T perfectly fit 4ft wide sheets of drywall so you wind up wasting drywall. Size your home to fit drywall sheets, and you waste exterior plywood/OSB. Bottom line, size your home to fit your needs, not the standard dimensions of lumber. 3) Yes, you do pay extra for bumpouts. And the extra cost is not just for the foundation. Bumpouts force a more complicated roof line - which is more costly to build. Plus, bumpouts result in a lower ratio of "exterior surface" to "interior square footage" so your cost per square foot goes up. Not saying you shouldn't have any bumpouts. Appropriately used, bumpouts lend style and allow you to design a more elegant home...but they do come at a price. 4) The statement that "You absolutely cannot run plumbing in exterior walls" is not necessarily true. It depends on how cold it gets where you live and how much insulation you're willing to wrap around the plumbing. Here in central Texas where the temp drops below 32F all of about two dozen nights per year and it almost never stays below freezing for more than about 24 hours, it is actually quite common to run plumbing lines through exterior walls....See MorePlease help me choose my range!!! I'm so confused...
Comments (5)To all you 30" DCS owners, can you please help me determine the interior oven dimensions of this range??? I can't find the specs anywhere online and am totally stressed tonight about finalizing my range choice!! Today, I received the news from my local appliance store that they are having a special 2-day offer for the 30" all gas, sealed burner Viking...$2999.00!!!!! With my VERY tight budget constraints, this seems like an impossible one to pass up. However, the last thing I want to do is make a mistake and decision I'll later regret. I truly don't know what I should do! The Viking has 4 15,000 BTU burners - is this enough power for most anything I'll want to do??? I'm also scared off my so many unfavorable reviews. Are there any happy Viking owners out there? Here is a link that might be useful: viking range with special promo...See MoreI'm lost on window treatments. Help ... please!
Comments (13)Beautiful! I'm a fan of pleated shades - not cellular, although that could work, too, but I find pleated to be a cleaner look and the stack is tiny so they disappear when fully open. They are light filtering, not room darkening but in general, anything that is room darkening has a larger stack because it's a thicker or doubled material. On your windows, because they are not very tall, if you hung pleated shades as an inside mount, the stack would probably not be more than the size of your window frame. In other words, none of the glass would be covered when they are open it would all be exposed to your view....See MorePlease help with kitchen layout--I'm hopelessly stuck
Comments (18)Hi Buehl, Here are the answers to your questions: "Has the garage door been moved in your layout (1st pic)? Your DH's drawing has it in the kitchen but your layout has it in the DR..." Yes, in Plan B - expanding into the dining room -- one of the proposed changes we depicted is moving the door to the garage a few feet over into what is now the dining room. That would free up space for a 36" fridge. Currently the door is still in the kitchen. "Can the wall b/w the Foyer and the table space be moved? Maybe 2' into the Foyer??" No because that wall extends well into the family room. There is also a hallway closet in the foyer that is right off the kitchen and behind our current pantry closet. "Would you consider switching the Kitchen & DR? Maybe make the table area the DR and then have a big kitchen? I don't know if it would work...I'm just throwing ideas out there! (I suspect those tall windows will be a problem, so probably not...but you never know!) BTW...the reason I asked in my previous post about expanding into the Foyer is that your first "IKEA" layout says the table area is 11'0" yet your 2nd layout & your DH's show 8'6"...so it looked like you expanded into the Foyer." Hm...switching the DR and kitchen..I don't think it would work since the eat-in area is right in the middle of the house and open on all sides. However, (now you've got me thinking!) I guess you could leave the table where it is right now in the eat-in area and then focus on expanding the kitchen area into the current DR by taking down part of the wall that separates them, maybe filling up the space in the DR with a butler's pantry along the one solid wall (as I have depicted in the Plan B layout), a larger island than I have depicted with some bar stools, and maybe some armchairs on either side of the tall windows and a small desk in the corner (depicted in black in Plan B). But would that look natural or totally contrived to fit the space? That's my worry...that if we make these changes it will look like some amateurish DIY job rather than something that fits the house organically. I just remeasured the table area and it is indeed 8'6" not 11'. Sorry for the discrepancies...the numbers may have changed a few times since I started this process! I hope I haven't confused you even further. It's frustrating that we live in a home that is plenty big for our little family (just the 3 of us) but that is so oddly configured that the space doesn't work for us. Anyway, thanks for sticking with me so far....See Morebill_vincent
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