I think that thing looks like a great worm bin. My only suggestions are to clean it out really well in case there are any chemicals in it, to prop up the end with the handles to ensure that all excess liquid escapes to the drain, and maybe to put some sort of screen over the inside of the drain so that it doesn't get clogged.

I'm really jealous that you've found such a great container!

yeah that is what I thought but what do i need to do to it? being new to Vermi it seems like I need a way to have a seperation or a way to get worms to migrate when compost is done liek achieved with multiple bins.. a top etc???

You can use it as a horizontal bin. The way it works is, you put bedding in the bin and feed on one side. When the stuff on that side (bedding included) is worked through, you start feeding on the other side of the bin. Then you give it a few weeks (or for some people months) and the worms will over to the other side, where the fresh food is. Search this forum for harvesting methods, and you can read more about it.

In your case, I'd start feeding at the drain end and then work your way up to the other end.

ok so do I need air holes in my tray? I was thinking making a plywood top and dividing the bin in 1/2 with wood. chicken wire so worms could migrate to other side when harvesting?

thanks

The zinc may prove to be a problem for you. Sometimes zinc galvanized metal is placed on roofs to kill moss, fungus, algae, etc that grows on the roof. The zinc dissolved in the water running down the roof kills everything below the metal. You can see this on roofs where there is galvanized flashing. There will be streaks below the flashing that are cleaner than the rest of the roof.

If I am wrong about that, this might be a good horizontal system. Start at one end, and work your way over to the opposite end as you feed. When the whole bin is full, always feed on the same end. Push the bedding over, then feed fresh bedding and scraps mixed. By the time the vermicompost has worked it way to the opposite end, it should be finished and fairly worm free.

Another thing you might try is to use this to finish the compost that comes out of the tumbler. Feed all your kitchen scraps to the tumbler, then feed your worms what comes out of the tumbler. Always feed on one end, pushing everthing over, then harvest out of the other end.

But I would definitely run a small scale test to be sure the zinc isn't going to kill the fungus, micro-organisms or worms.

I wouldn't think you would need air holes unless you plan to put a pretty tight cover on this. If you are going to cover this, just find a way to prop one end of the cover up by 1/4 inch or so.

IMHO-
First: read "Worms Eat My Garbage" available @ half.com. so that you will know what vermiculture is about.
Second: Do NOT do anything to this box until you harvest your first tote, then you will know not to drill holes in it, or paint it, or put a lid on it, or mess it up in some other way.

HI I'm with sbryce. the first thing I thought of when I saw this was the galvanized metal. Might not be a problem but I might throw a coat of paint or spray primer on there or line it with garbage bags. If you have access to some thin plywood maybe just line the bottom with it. It might even be ok just as is since it seems a little oxidized on the inside bottom. looks great though. happy worming steve

Am I the only one who thinks he needs to read a book?
A box is a box is a box, but if he does not know how to keep worms alive in a box then...

As you wish.

Harrison, nice "find"! I agree with katxena's suggestions to clean thoroughly & put a screen over the drain hole. You might want to consider NOT using a lid at all. That would provide plenty of air and you wouldn't need to drill holes in the tray itself.

I know of 2 local worm farmers (they sell worms) who use shallow trays to raise worms in their garages. The trays have no drain or air holes. They put a thick layer of dry bedding (shredded paper/cardboard) on top, cover with damp cotton or burlap cloth and keep a low wattage light above the bins. The bedding & cloth help keep flies out and the light helps discourage the worms from wandering out of the bin. My guess is a string of white LED Christmas lights would easily provide enough light to discourage the worms.

What are the dimensions of this tray? Post some photos when you get it running. Good luck.

Andrew in Berkeley

Actually, steamyb makes a good point. You might want to try worming on a smaller scale before setting up a bin this big. That way your mistakes won't be so costly.

My first attempt at worming was a home made six sq ft flow thru system with 5 lb of worms. It was a dismal failure. My more recent attempt is 1 lb of worms in a rubbermaid tote. It has been a great success. Now I wish I was able to do the flow thru bin again.

Thank You sbryce for the vote of confidence.
Harrison said he had no experience with worms, therefore he needs the book.
I have a 4'X3'X2' wooden worm box that appears to be about twice the size of this box. The inside is painted with fiberglass. For heat, I use an 18Â red rope light on a timer (total cost For HarrisonÂs Box:
Paint will not stick to galvanized metal, so it must be washed with vinegar. Then I would paint the inside with fiberglass (after sanding the rusty places off). That is what I did with my worm box because fiberglass is much stronger than paint or polyurethane. Keep the drain in the bottom, but if you run the box properly, you will not need it. The wheels will not help much because these boxes are heavy when full, so they are put in one place and left alone. Harvesting is a continuous process. I feed my worms in a clockwise direction, adding scraps and covering the scraps with the compost from the other end. Imagine an empty area in the middle, and the VC is 6-8" high all around the sides with a gap going down the middle. When the VC catches up, then I harvest maybe 20# or so to build the gap back up. It is like a worm race around the inside of the box as the worms follow the food.
Harrison- get the book and start with a pound in a Rubbermaid tote. Harvest in 3 months and you will have 2#s of worms(min) and 20#s of VC. Your tray with wheels (30"x18"x8") looks like a parts washer or something along those lines. It should hold 6 to 10#s of worms without a problem, but plan on regular continuous harvesting. ItÂs a way of life for those with worms in boxes.

i'd be concerned about the galvanized (steel?) as well. maybe a rubber pond liner or something similar (plastic tarp) would do the trick. do a google search on trench or windrow composting. you may find that this methodology for using/feeding to be a good fit for you. generally a windrow would be a lot longer but the idea is that you feed at one end, let the worms eat and then feed in the next spot and so on down the line.

are you keeping this outdoors? it doesn't look very deep so if it gets cold where you are there may not be much of an insulating barrier between the worms and the cold. you could build up the sides with plywood and 2x4's and then protect the wood with rubber pond liner or plastic tarp.