Musings on flavor assumptions
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (52)
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
Related Discussions
more flavored vinegar questions
Comments (14)Good information, thanks everyone. I had no idea people were so creative with vinegars! The past couple of years I have had bumper crops of super hot peppers, several different varieties. So hot I couldn't find anyone who would take them and we just couldn't eat them. I should have made chili pepper vinegar. I'm still not sure if we would use it, or what I would use it for! Does the heat mellow over time? Since I don't know what I'll like, or what I will end up using, I will try small batches of different kinds and see how it goes. Thanks for the inspirations everyone. I did come across an vinegar recipe specifically for chokecherries. That's what I have in abundance right now. It is published by Yellowstone County, Montana State University, (http://www.msuextension.org/musselshell/PDF%20FILES/CHOKECHERRYRECIPES.pdf). The recipe states to mash chokecherries (not breaking pits) and cover with a weak vinegar solution that is half white wine vinegar and half water. Let stand 2 days, stir each day. On third day drain and add 1 cup sugar for each cup of juice. Bring to a boil then remove from heat and let it settle well. Bottle or put in jars. A couple of tablespoons mixed in a glass a water makes a refreshing drink. I couldnâÂÂt find a date on this pub and none of the other recipes IâÂÂve read use a diluted vinegar solution. Any thoughts on whether or not the 1:1 solution would be OK to use or should I stick with undiluted wwv? thanks!...See MoreSquash backcross to a parent or self F1s?
Comments (1)Hi jmsieglaff, Based on my last several years of breeding zinnias, I do have some thoughts. The power of F2 recombination is impressive, but the more plants you can grow, the greater is that power. It is a little bit like playing a slot machine, the more tries, the better your chance of a jackpot. I don't know your zone or growing season, so I don't know whether you have your Tatumes and Lemons growing yet. I would try to accelerate things by trying to get more than one generation in a year. One technique that has helped immensely with my zinnia growing is planting green seeds or even naked embryos. I can pluck green seeds from a still blooming zinnia flower, and breach the living seed coat so the embryo can absorb some water. A living seed coat is impermeable to water, so if you plant a green seed without breaching the coat the seed won't germinate until the seed coat dies and becomes water permeable. That can take weeks. The fastest way is to harvest some green seeds and use an X-Acto knife to remove the seed coat and just plant the embryos. That lets you get seedlings in a very few days. I got four generations of zinnias this last year by planting the green seed/embryos and growing two generations indoors under fluorescent lights. I recommend that you try to get green seeds from your crosses, and grow your F1 hybrids this year and save F2 seeds from them this Fall. You can also save those F2 seeds as green seeds, only to store them you will need to spread them out on a newspaper and dry them for a couple of weeks. With my zinnias, dried green seeds work as well as waiting an extra month or two for the seed heads to turn brown and dry in the field. I don't know how much ground you have available for your project. If you are area limited, you might try going vertical, and grow your squash rather like they grow grape vines. There are advantages to growing squash vertically, besides being able to grow more vines in a limited area. Weed control is easier, and access to the blooms and squashes is more convenient. And it's easier to watch for pests and control them. I grew some Costata Romanesco squash in a tall wide tomato cage instead of on a fence and got three large plants in only a few square feet that way. It was easy to harvest the squash and the squash blossoms. Squash blossoms can be tasty battered and deep fat fried, and the Costata Romanesco produced a lot of big squash blossoms. If you are space limited, vertical growing could be a solution. The more F2 plants you can grow, the more recombinant variations you can get. It would be an interesting challenge to try to grow a few squash indoors under fluorescent lights or HID lights. There are plant growth regulators that could keep the inter-nodal length of your vines under your control. And you might try vertical growth indoors as well. One indoor F1 squash vine could supply an abundance of F2 seeds for planting next Spring. Zinnia growing indoors has its problems, but I am a big fan of surmounting those problems for extra generations. Last Fall, rather than bringing in cuttings as I usually did, I brought in green seeds and planted them and/or embryos to have a new generation of zinnias blooming by Christmas, and green seeds from them produced a second generation whose seeds and seedlings are going in the garden now. This last year accomplished four years worth of breeding for me. Two generations outdoors and two generations indoors. I am not suggesting a factor of four for your squash, but a factor of two is probably feasible outdoors. And indoor or greenhouse culture could make a factor of three or four possible. ZM...See MoreBrassica musings
Comments (15)Hazel, We were typing at the same time. No, I do not, would not, will not direct sow broccoli (or most other brassica) seeds in the Spring, although some people do it with cabbage, and it generally works because most cabbage plants can tolerate June heat. It also works with collards. The reason why we use transplants for crops like broccoli is that we always, always and without fail, are in a huge race to try to get our cool season crops to produce before enough heat arrives to shut them down, make them bolt, or cause them to have very unpleasant flavor. Starting seeds indoors at the right time and transplanting the plants into the ground at the right time is the key to getting a good harvest. You can be off some years by just a couple of weeks and get no harvest at all. Even worse, you have wasted garden space on a crop that failed to produce a harvest. Direct sowing in our climate doesn't work well with broccoli, cauliflower or brussels sprouts because there's not enough time in between that point where soil is warm enough for seeds to germinate and that point where it suddenly is too hot. That's why we don't direct sow some cool season crops---our cool season is shockingly short. That is why the OSU Garden Planning Guide, linked below, lists "plants" as the method to use when planting broccoli. If your chances of getting a crop from direct-sown seed were equally as good as getting them from transplants, the planning guide would so state as "seeds or plants" or something similar. OSU Garden Planning Guide Even with the cool-season crops that we do direct sow, like carrots, beets and spinach, sometimes the seeds are so slow to germinate in cold early Spring soil that we get a poor yield or no yield or maybe eventually a good yield that we've spent far too much time babying along in an effort to get that harvest before it gets too hot or too dry or too whatever. In general, since you're in the middle part of the state, I'd aim at putting the broccoli plants in the ground in latest March or early April (later than OSU probably says but late freezes are hard on broc plants so I try to plant late enough to avoid late freezes) and expect a harvest around the end of May. If you want an earlier broccoli harvest, you'll have to put your transplants in the ground earlier and cover them up. With the brassicas whose crops are the flower heads, like broccoli, brussels sprouts, and cauliflower, exposure for even one week to temperatures below a certain level can cause the plants to produce button-sized heads or no heads at all, so we can't plant too early either. (This is because exposure to temperatures at a certain level once the plants are a certain size triggers these biennials to think they are in their second season and rush to go to seed.) It is like being Goldilocks, struggling to find a planting time that is just right since our weather doesn't make it easy. We hurt our chances of getting a harvest if we plant too early or too late or from seed instead of transplants or if the weather turns nastily cold after the plants are a specific size or if the weather gets too hot too early. Ha! Re-reading that makes me think we should be grateful to get any harvest at all because Oklahoma weather is notorious for changing on a dime. If you can grow cabbage successfully, you can grow broccoli successfully. I generally transplant them into the ground at the same time. I have better luck with brussels sprouts and cauliflower if I transplant them much earlier than the cabbage and broccoli. It can take a while (like, years and years, to be honest) to figure out the precise timing that works in your growing conditions, and you can't do it so much by the calendar as by soil temperatures/air temperatures because plants don't respond to calendar dates. They respond to specific climatic conditions. Every year after we moved here I tried one planting date after another to find the timing that worked for me in an average year, and it took just as much experimentation to find the planting dates that work in a year when we get hot early and when we stay really cold really late. The dates that worked in Texas didn't work so well for me here, and the dates recommended by OSU did not necessarily work in my microclimate and with our seemingly changing climate, so I just had to keep trying until I found what worked. The OSU Planning Guide is great, but the plants don't read it and your microclimate as well as your weather in any given year will determine how well a specific planting period works for you. So, just experiment to find what works. Usually the dates that are best for me fall somewhere within the range given by OSU, but sometimes not. My microclimate stays shockingly cold some years very late so I have to plant some things, like broccoli, a bit later than recommended to account for that. It drove me nuts in the beginning, but I figured it out. You'll do the same. Blame a lot of this struggle to plant at the right time on our climate. If we lived somewhere with a nice, cool summer, we could grow broccoli all summer long and get a nice harvest, but that's not our reality. Dawn...See MoreAssumptions of a new composter
Comments (16)I'm not sure I can make this anymore clear :-) Compost is not recommended for any kind of container or potting mix because it continues to break down and degrade - even faster indoors than out because of ambient temperatures and frequent watering. And as it continues to break down, the individual particles get smaller and smaller, clogging up pore space, reducing aeration/oxygen exchange and slowing drainage. NONE of these are conditions you want with a potting mix!! It has nothing to do with sterilization.....but it has everything to do with mainaining the proper texture and size, which compost cannot do. If there is no advantage to using it and plenty of drawbacks, why would you bother? Being completely organic is not really an ideal concept when it comes to container gardening, either. This one of the other major areas where containers differ drastically from inground gardening. Because there is no real soil or dirt involved and the associated high populations of soil dwelling organisms, there is no way organic fertilizers can get converted into plant usable forms. You can find a few water soluble or fully liquid organic ferts but there are not a lot and even fewer still that offer a full range of immediately accessible macro and micronutrients. Addressing your plants' ongoing nutrient needs is best done with a fully water soluble synthetic fert. As you can see, that thread I linked to is the last in a long string of similar posts that started back in the early years of this century - there used to be a limit of 150 comments per thread. So if you are interested enough you can search out previous threads under the same heading to garner additinal info. I am a professional horticulturist, have been container gardening for many years and that is by far the most thorough and detailed treatise on how to best garden in containers I have ever encountered!!...See More- 5 years agolast modified: 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years agolast modified: 5 years ago
- 5 years agolast modified: 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years agolast modified: 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years agolast modified: 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years agolast modified: 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
Related Stories

MOST POPULAR7 Ways to Design Your Kitchen to Help You Lose Weight
In his new book, Slim by Design, eating-behavior expert Brian Wansink shows us how to get our kitchens working better
Full Story
HOUSEKEEPINGHow to Clean Your Fridge, Inside and Out
Keep your refrigerator clean and fresh, while you gain storage space and lose those ‘UFOs’
Full Story
HEALTHY HOME12 Ways to Set Up Your Kitchen for Healthy Eating
Making smart food choices is easier when your kitchen is part of your support team
Full Story
WORKING WITH PROS8 Questions to Ask Yourself Before Meeting With Your Designer
Thinking in advance about how you use your space will get your first design consultation off to its best start
Full Story
DECORATING STYLES7 Ways to Add Mediterranean Elegance to Your Home
Embrace the easy style and romance of the Mediterranean through color, texture, classic accents, and light
Full Story
SMALL HOMESAsk an Expert: What Is Your Ultimate Space-Saving Trick?
Houzz professionals share their secrets for getting more from any space, small or large
Full Story
LIFEThe Polite House: On Dogs at House Parties and Working With Relatives
Emily Post’s great-great-granddaughter gives advice on having dogs at parties and handling a family member’s offer to help with projects
Full Story
REMODELING GUIDESFrom the Pros: 8 Reasons Kitchen Renovations Go Over Budget
We asked kitchen designers to tell us the most common budget-busters they see
Full Story
HOME TECHFuture Home: How We’ll Be Living in 10 Years
Fast-forward a decade and see how intuitive technology and a more nomadic lifestyle will be driving the way we live
Full Story
ROOTS OF STYLEArt Deco, Art Nouveau, Arts and Crafts: What’s the Difference?
If the zigzag and swirly designs of the past leave your head spinning, these descriptions will straighten you right out
Full Story
Islay Corbel