I assume you mean cupping- each board has curved slightly across the width of the board? Were the boards allowed to acclimate in the house prior to install? Is the climate control system running? How much cupping is there- if you put a straight edge across the floor how high are the ridges? If the deflection is 1/16th inch it can be easily sanded off. More than an eight and you start removing a lot of the wood.

Thanks for answering. Two boards had lifted at the seam to create a small tent. is that called buckling? The boards were allowed to acclimate over a weekend. When I told my installer if he's sure it doesn't need more than that, he said he doesn't buy the wood from a lumberyard that keeps their wood outside, but from a floor company that keeps the wood indoors in warehouses so it doesn't need so much time. No climate control is currently running, as our electrician has been very unreliable and just doesn't show up.

For heavens sake?! Who is this guy?

Any and every wood floor must acclimate for more than a few days , where it will be installed . Every wood floor , needs CONSISTENT humidity . So you can answer your own question on both counts.

Make that three counts, to include the reliability of his presence, His knowledge . And your own choice to "save" with a lack of correct climate ......

I know we made a mistake using this guy. Someone actually recommended him to us, he is very popular among developers and contractors, no so much private people. He actually always answers my calls, comes down when I call him, but his work leaves much to be desired. Besides for the buckling, my decorator said his cuts are rough, he didn't line up the nosing by the landing correctly with the floor... etc.

At this point what do I do? what are my options?

I would also love to go with someone else to finish the floor, I am just nervous if something goes wrong, the finisher will say its the installers problem and the installer will say it is the finishers problem.

You need to find and fix the moisture problem that your house has.

Don't try to fix the floor until the HVAC system is up and running and has plenty of time to get everything stabilized. You should not fix the floor issue then change the environment because then you might be watching your flat floor develop a belly when the buckling straightens out.

How much is it raised?

Contractor says there is no moisture problem, I am no professional, but I don't see any moisture either. I hope to get the heating up and running before we start the finishing.

I can check to see how much it is raised, it is noticeable to the eye, and you can feel it when walking on it.

Just for reference, he put down 900 sf of quarter sawn white oak on our first floor, over radiant heat, and over 900 sf of regular white oak on our second floor. We see the buckling issue in one bedroom across one seam. I'm assuming if we had a moisture issue, we would see more buckling?

Get at least 2 other competent wood floor subcontractors out to look at it - question is will they? I’d have a hard time finding a quality wood floor co that would finish the floors if they also didn’t install them. I doubt you will get a warranty from anyone on the final product. But what’s done is done and what you do want to do is fine out why the one room is cupping. Maybe installed that room without enough expansion around the perimeter.

What‘s in the contract? How does your decorator fit into this equation: did she hire him? Post pictures, please.

I originally priced two other floor guys, but they came in more expensive. I'm reluctant to ask them now to diagnose the problem of the third floor guy. I guess there is a reason they are more expensive.

My decorator is helping me with design decisions and she has a lot of experience working with construction. She did not hire him, I hired him. She was actually the only one who said I shouldn't go with him, because the one time one of her clients used him they had an issue. I didn't listen to her then, because we were talking about a lot of money in price difference. of course I regret it now.

I will try to get pictures of it and post.

I originally priced two other floor guys, but they came in more expensive. I'm reluctant to ask them now to diagnose the problem of the third floor guy.

I guess I can understand why you’d be reluctant, but it’s really not a big deal to call one of them. Professionals (in all fields!) deal with this sort of thing all the time. And don’t beat yourself up over would’ves and should’ves: this (going with the cheapest option) happens to everyone at least once. :)

This construction has been a learning experience ;) If I ever do this again (which I hope is never) I will know all the right questions to ask, where I can save money, and where I absolutely shouldn't, and the list goes on...

I actually asked the floor guy straight out how he can be so much cheaper than the other quotes I got, because I was getting nervous that I'm not getting the same thing, and he said he can be cheaper because of volume, he does a lot of jobs a week.

HAHHAHAHA "Volume" ....I always love that one. It should come printed on the front of a t shirt, with "You get what you pay for" on the back side........

Better yet? A vest. Because it already has no sleeves.

Moisture is far more than visible water. It’s mostly water vapor that is the issue. Humidity. Always. You need to hire the more qualified expensive people to fix this after you properly discharge the current contractor.

your GC needs to have climate control running before authorizing flooring install.

For proper acclimating over radiant. The radiant system needs to be up and running. The flooring needs to be racked over the system for a week prior to installing the first piece. The floor boards need to lose all the extra moisture.

The install was done in the summer when it was really hot outside. The boards that were installed on the first floor over the radiant heat did sit there for over a week (though not with the heating on). On the second floor, we don't have radiant heat, just radiators, and that is were the issue is.

The hvac needed to be up and running for a bit of time and with moisture readings taken of the flooring and subfloor.

Had a client turn off their heat for an extended December vacation & calling me 2+ weeks in to check the house. Home was in the low 50s & dropping with cherry floors crowning when we got there. It ultimately settled back down after awhile & explanation that the dropping temps could also damage the wine collection motivated my client to keep his home at moderate temperatures even when empty.

Get your temps & humidity stabilized for hardwood, cabinets, paint, etc.

My contractor hired the electrician who has been totally unreliable. He is holding up the job from being completed. He promises to come and just doesn't show up. He has caused us much heartache. I already told my contractor he should get another electrician but he is reluctant to do so because he is in middle of work and knows what was done and wasn't and he is always promising to come tomorrow, next week...

So the thermostats are not connected so we cannot get the heating on. I'm at a loss...

you are going to have to take control of this situation. Do not allow any sanding or staining now. Such a pain but your stuck.

Do NOTHING until that heating has been up and running for about 2 weeks. Moisture readings WILL BE TAKEN before (right now), during (the day they start sanding) and after (the day you walk through to see the final coat) the sand/refinish has been completed. This is non-negotiable for your installer. Because you chose the installer, you are HIS/HER GC. The real GC is responsible for everything s/he hired for your project.

Look to your contract to see if there are penalties you can *refer to (small threat...not a big one) to encourage work to be completed by 'such and such' a date.

Do NOT let the project move along until the heating is turned on. And be VERY careful with in-floor radiant heat under the wood. The in-floor radiant can ONLY be increased very, very, very slowly. It should take 3-5 DAYS before the in-floor radiant will be in the range of 'living conditions'.

As soon as you allow (ahem...you are the flooring GC...you are responsible for allowing your subcontractor back onto that floor) the flooring contractor access to a floor that is improperly acclimated (regardless of when it was installed it is now officially 'unnaclimated' because of the lack of heat') then you officially take responsibility for a floor that has issues.

Pause the project, bring up the contract with the real GC, point out the penalties of halting the job (he will incur) and the halting of payments you will be forced to engage should the electrical be delayed any further.

Hardball sucks but sometimes it comes down homeowner putting their foot down. Sadly you have to do this TWICE. First with the GC and secondly with YOUR flooring contractor.

Thank You all for your advise and help. Priority right now is to get the heating going, and I will not allow flooring to be finished until heating is up and running for a while.

Unfortunately there is nothing in our contract that we can use as leverage with our contractor. He promised the job can be done in 8-10 months, it is now 16 months and we are not finished yet. We did consider changing contractors but we paid him almost in full, he was very religious about picking up payments, and always hinting that if we didn't pay he can't continue without supplies, paying the workers.. etc.

I will try to post a picture of the buckling floor, as I want your opinions if it can be sanded down.

What I think we are trying to say is that you have to wait and see if the humps go away. Right now the wood is in NO condition (ie. not in living conditions) to be assessed. Not yet.

The take away is this: wait. The heating *MIGHT just do all the work for you. Once the heat is on the wood will DRY OUT. Once wood dries out, it SHRINKS. Once it SHRINKS it will lose the humps (or it should).

The answer to your question is: yes, TECHNICALLY the floor can be sanded flat...but that is the LAST resort. We urge you to wait. Don't make any plans until this home is heated and it has been heated for SEVERAL weeks. Don't make any plans until the moisture content has been established (someone can do that today if you want). Once the heat is on, you can reassess every week or so.

As soon as the wood is within it's stated norm, then you can reassess the VISUAL aspect of the install. The gapping (or lack thereof) the cupping or tenting (or lack thereof). The spacing at the walls (or lack thereof), etc, etc, etc.

Once the home is warm and dry AND the floor has been tested and found to be INSIDE the normal Moisture Content requirements, you can THEN look to see about any problems that exist. Until then, you have to wait.

"nothing in our contract" It doesn't have to be in writing.

While the GC may not be in charge of the hardwood, he's in charge of getting appropriate temp heat in the home to install finishes (paint, drywall finishes, glue, carpet, hardwood) per manufacturer's specs which by default are code. That is typically once the home is weathered in and drywall taping commences, especially Nov 1-Mar 1 except in very moderate dry climates.

Would you store a nice piano in these conditions?

You sand the wood now it might turn opposite once heat and moisture is normalized.