Recommend a stacked washer & dryer set for tenants
Condo Home
5 years ago
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Please help with prep for tile and a washer dryer stack
Comments (12)1) You can brace or block the joists per standard construction, but what might be easier is to strap the bottom edges of the joists. Typical strapping is done with a 1x3, but a lot of times I'll simply use a 2x4. Run a 2x4 across the bottoms of the joists, perpendicular to the joists. Add a dab of PL adhesive and use a couple of screws at each fastening point. You have specific needs here, so spacing the 2x4s as you need will work very well. What it does is if a single joist wants to deflect downward, the strapping transfers that load to the adjacent joists as well. So it's good as a floor stiffener. For a washer/dryer set up, it also dampens the entire floor platform in terms of the possibility of the spin cycle causing the floor to reverberate. The strapping serves the same purpose as cross-bracing or solid blocking between the joists. It's code-approved, though code only requires it for 2x12 joists, with the strapping being made of 1x3, and the strapping spaced every 8'. The strapping is more effective long-term than bracing or blocking, due to fitment, installation, and shrinkage issues. 2) Do the whole floor. There are only restrictions on maximum spacing (every 8'). So if you make it every 2', or 3', or 4', no worries. Strapping is also easier because you're not wrestling with any of the utilities that take up space between the joists. 3) Your joists span 8-1/2'. For simplicity, why not do run three pieces of strapping? One at 1/4 span, one at half-span, the other at 3/4 span. Just a little over 2' spacing. 4) 3/4" ply over the diagonal boards is plenty. It does not have to be exterior grade. 5) Your floor sandwich can be made up of: -Tile -Ditra -Floor heat wires encased in SLC (no wires under the washer/dryer area through, see comments later) -Plywood underlayment covered with SLC primer -Diagonal plank subfloor -joists I usually advocate a small platform under the washer/dryer stack. It's more for damping than load spreading. I've done sandwiches of plywood/cement_board/plywood, or plywood/MLV/plywood. MLV is mass-loaded vinyl. Screw through the top layer of ply, through the middle material, and into the bottom layer of plywood to secure it together. Or just use construction adhesive. I drill a hole through the middle of the platform sandwich to accommodate the flood pan's drain line. I usually put a square of rug pad on the floor. The inexpensive, maybe 1/8" thick, rubbery mesh or open weave type of rug pad. It acts as a bit of a damper, but also holds the platform in place. I then set the platform on the rug pad. Then put the flood pan over the platform with the drain plumbed through the hole in the platform. Then set the washer in place and the dryer on top of that. I recommend you tile the entire floor, but again, no heating wires under the location of the washer. You'll be putting the sandwich platform on top of the tile in that area, and the insulative value of that platform can shorten the life span of the heating element. Pricklypear, the Ditra-XL is simply thicker than regular Ditra. It really wasn't designed for a specific tile size. It's sole purpose is to allow the thickness of "Ditra plus tile" to match up with the thickness of a typical hardwood floor....See MoreIs stacking Samsung Dryer DV337 on Samsung Washer WF337 recommend
Comments (10)Amd111~ For what it's worth, I have a Maytag Epic set. They are stackable also & did require a kit... Just remember if you have to take the feet off the dryer to put them in a safe place!... Anyway, I originally had mine stacked & it didn't seem to cause any problems; no extra noise, vibration, etc... Also, we live in a mobile home, and there was no problem w/ the weight at all, I was also paranoid about this to begin with. Just recently, I unstacked mine to create hanging space in my laundry room, remember the "tip" above? I lost 1 of my dryer feet & DH had to rig up boards of the perfect height to go under my dryer so it was the same height as my washer! About the venting situation... Why couldn't you buy a longer dryer vent, possibly the expandable periscope vents, and maybe even a longer dryer cord if necessary to put the machines like they're supposed to be? I had to rearrange my laundry room from the way it's supposed to be set up b/c of the depth of my machines, I just bought a longer dryer cord, a periscope vent (these also let you push the dryer further back), and longer washer hoses... All of this stuff is readily available online. Anyway, that's just a thought, good luck! Mc_Hudd...See Moretalk to me about stacked washers - dryers
Comments (20)A few comments: First, what susie53 talks about is not a stacked set. It's a "laundry center". That's a one piece unit, not a pair stacked together. Similar function but different than a stacked set. Laundry centers can be a top loader with a dryer or a front loader with a dryer. The top loader unit is usually a lot cheaper. As already said, if one part goes, you're going to replace the whole unit. I imagine it's conceivable that you could separate them but I wouldn't go through the effort. Next, don't forget that Sears Kenmore is NOT a manufacturer of appliances. They have other companies build their units so just because Mom and Aunt Bertha both have Kenmores, doesn't mean they're made by the same company. They bid them out to be built to Sears' specifications. Frigidaire, GE, LG,,Whirlpool, etc, all build washers for Sears under the "Kenmore" name. Similarly, Whirlpool owns a number of brand names, including Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, Inglis, and a variety of others. Front loaders take longer than top loaders to run a cycle, it's part of the design and the way they work. You can get a shorter cycle in various ways but especially with a heated front loader it can take upwards of 2.5 hours (maybe even more) to run a load. Many people have trouble changing over from top load to front load for this reason. One big problem with front loaders is people put too much detergent in it or the wrong kind of detergent and it kicks up so much suds that it's going to keep rinsing and rinsing to try to remove it. I like the concept of a stacked unit but would have to go with laundry center with a top load since I have issues with bending over and a front loader is not practical for me unless it's up on a high pedestal. Although some have done it, it's not recommended to put a stacked unit on a pedestal because of the weight, height and other safety reasons. I don't believe in buying "matched" sets of washers and dryers. Seldom do they have a dryer with proper capacity paired to a washer. The general guideline is to double the washer capacity to determine the dryer capacity required. So a "4.0" capacity washer should be paired with a minimum of an 8 cubic foot dryer. Seldom is. Capacities are also often misleading but that's another story. That bi-fold door sketch is a laughable example of fraudulent advertising. Bi-fold doors FOLD. DUH! The space you lose is 4 times the thickness of a door. The sketch shows you losing nearly 1/3 of the opening. But people are gullible and will buy into this type of fraud. I'm not saying that changing the hinge system is bad, but whoever did that sketch was exaggerating. And you don't need special hinges to accomplish this, as you can see from the sketch. Standard hinges mounted differently will accomplish the same thing. Good luck on getting the house and a smooth closing....See MoreTwin builtin stacked washer/dryers
Comments (17)What do you need in your laundry space. I like many of the ideas that others have posted. I would suspect you need hanging space. Ironing space. Storage space. dirty laundry hampers. storage for brooms, and vacuum possibly. If you go with a built in, I would do generic sizing for machines, so that you can switch out brands. The best idea I think is to have side by side single set in basement and another set near the bedrooms. The side by side allows the water shut off and drain to be above the counter for easy access. You might have to move out the dryer for vent maintenance, unless you go with a ventless model. You absolutely need access quickly to water valves and dryer vent, and electrical outlets. I don't see that in your plan. I have a small built in cabinetry and w/d on my main floor. It is perfect for our family of 2. When I planned for the main floor built in, I did all the design myself. I have an access to one side to get to the water shut off valve, drain pipe, and dryer vent (for clean out). I can reach into the lower cabinet open area to access the electrical outlets. I have about an inch on either side of the built in, and it is not a problem sliding the set out. I do not have a pan under the set, after a lot of thought. My machine pump clean-out is in the front of the washer, so no need to move the machines. When I was moving the machines in and out during the remodel, it was no big deal to slide the machines out. But that is a rare instance. There are several inches at the top of the machines. This set up is custom to my Miele set which is of a smaller design. The room was a constraint for size. I am not sure if a Bosch set will fit, but that could be an alternative set for me in the future, if needed. I always shut my water off when we leave for a few days. I also have a double stacked set in the basement of used machines for my DH farm clothes. I always shut the water off after my weekly farm clothes wash up....See MoreCondo Home
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5 years agoLarisa Batchelor
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoSusie .
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