talk to me about stacked washers - dryers
11 years ago
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- 11 years ago
- 11 years ago
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Please help with prep for tile and a washer dryer stack
Comments (12)1) You can brace or block the joists per standard construction, but what might be easier is to strap the bottom edges of the joists. Typical strapping is done with a 1x3, but a lot of times I'll simply use a 2x4. Run a 2x4 across the bottoms of the joists, perpendicular to the joists. Add a dab of PL adhesive and use a couple of screws at each fastening point. You have specific needs here, so spacing the 2x4s as you need will work very well. What it does is if a single joist wants to deflect downward, the strapping transfers that load to the adjacent joists as well. So it's good as a floor stiffener. For a washer/dryer set up, it also dampens the entire floor platform in terms of the possibility of the spin cycle causing the floor to reverberate. The strapping serves the same purpose as cross-bracing or solid blocking between the joists. It's code-approved, though code only requires it for 2x12 joists, with the strapping being made of 1x3, and the strapping spaced every 8'. The strapping is more effective long-term than bracing or blocking, due to fitment, installation, and shrinkage issues. 2) Do the whole floor. There are only restrictions on maximum spacing (every 8'). So if you make it every 2', or 3', or 4', no worries. Strapping is also easier because you're not wrestling with any of the utilities that take up space between the joists. 3) Your joists span 8-1/2'. For simplicity, why not do run three pieces of strapping? One at 1/4 span, one at half-span, the other at 3/4 span. Just a little over 2' spacing. 4) 3/4" ply over the diagonal boards is plenty. It does not have to be exterior grade. 5) Your floor sandwich can be made up of: -Tile -Ditra -Floor heat wires encased in SLC (no wires under the washer/dryer area through, see comments later) -Plywood underlayment covered with SLC primer -Diagonal plank subfloor -joists I usually advocate a small platform under the washer/dryer stack. It's more for damping than load spreading. I've done sandwiches of plywood/cement_board/plywood, or plywood/MLV/plywood. MLV is mass-loaded vinyl. Screw through the top layer of ply, through the middle material, and into the bottom layer of plywood to secure it together. Or just use construction adhesive. I drill a hole through the middle of the platform sandwich to accommodate the flood pan's drain line. I usually put a square of rug pad on the floor. The inexpensive, maybe 1/8" thick, rubbery mesh or open weave type of rug pad. It acts as a bit of a damper, but also holds the platform in place. I then set the platform on the rug pad. Then put the flood pan over the platform with the drain plumbed through the hole in the platform. Then set the washer in place and the dryer on top of that. I recommend you tile the entire floor, but again, no heating wires under the location of the washer. You'll be putting the sandwich platform on top of the tile in that area, and the insulative value of that platform can shorten the life span of the heating element. Pricklypear, the Ditra-XL is simply thicker than regular Ditra. It really wasn't designed for a specific tile size. It's sole purpose is to allow the thickness of "Ditra plus tile" to match up with the thickness of a typical hardwood floor....See MoreTalk to me about the Miele T98xx dryers
Comments (18)As someone who is obsessed with ironing (I'm not German but have a British background)... I do appreciate those settings. While I don't own the rotary iron (it is on my most wanted list) I do own a Rowenta hand iron. The hand iron setting leaves just enough moisture in the items to be beautifully pressed. I think it speaks to Miele's commitment to fine fabric care - the thoughtfulness of these options. I own the T9822 gas version and have no complaints about its performance. I did have some install issues that seem to have been fixed. Miele's service (in Canada) during that was outstanding (even giving me free care products each time they came out). I am in love with their Miele detergents now ... but I digress ... It does reverse tumble (although not as often as electric) but I've never had an issue with items being balled up. @Larsi always talks about how Miele make electric dryers for the rest of the world (I've never checked to see if they make gas for anyone else) but gas and electric are not that much different. One uses an electric element to create heat and the other uses a gas burner. I prefer the heat generated by gas (it has a higher moisture content and dries nicer IMHO). I've never used a Miele electric so I can't compare directly. I was told that the 45 min dry was for when you use the drying rack. I seldom use this setting as I find the temp to be very hot. The Miele sensor is very sensitive. If you dry mixed loads you can expect some uneven drying. For example, I wash my kids' jeans with their other dark clothes (like t-shirts) and when I dry the load the jeans will always still be damp. Once the machine registers that the t-shirt are dry it stops. I just hang the jeans up and they dry pretty quickly. I really appreciate the residual moisture left in items when using the normal setting as I can appreciate how much better this is for fabrics (not to overdry)- again, Miele taking the best possible care of fabrics. If you find it too much moisture, you can select extra dry. I do this for loads where I have socks for example. The socks are always too wet dried on normal but come out perfect on extra dry. There is a learning curve and you'll have to figure out what works for you. There is a newer dryer in Canada (the IntelliQ) but feature wise it is hardly any different. I read a comment from someone that said they were told Miele is going out of the W4XXX series machines ... I don't know if that is true. The light you are referring to is the Check Filter/Vent indicator (Indicates to clean the filter or vent). It says (PC) beside it. My washer says PC beside the sensitive button. This may have something to do with programming. The Miele techs can connect their laptop to the machine and do all sorts of things. Good luck!...See MoreStacked washer and dryer, against code?
Comments (1)If there was a code for stacking laundry machine, then it would be in a closet with a solid door. Code would be broken because it's a tight fit and machine needs to breath. Enclosure like this may cause over heating and fire otherwise, I don't understand why they will not hookup units to your likings!...See MoreCan I stack a He4t dryer on a different brand washer?
Comments (4)If you decide on an LG washer, don't bother with the fancy features like steam, etc. but do get one with an internal heater (if it has a Sanitary cycle then it has an internal heater). We got a simple LG washer with a heater on a black Friday special at Best Buy for $500 (we did opt for a matching dryer exactly because of the stacking need, that was also $500). So the whole set was $1000. I'm very pleased with Best Buy's installation service, and very happy with the new washer. Sears service is not what it used to be. Most of their sales people don't know anything about the products they sell....See More- 11 years ago
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