Twin builtin stacked washer/dryers
Hello everyone. We're getting close to installing cabinets in a new house build. We have 4 kids and do a ton of laundry, so we worked out with the architect and the GC to have two sets of washer/dryers in a pretty big laundry room. To make the best use of space, they stacked each set and designed cabinetry to surround them so they have a nice builtin look. Since this is a room in a finished basement, they set the twin set of appliances in a 1.5" deep drain pain, with a drain at the bottom that flows to the sump pump in the house, in case a leak happens.
You can see a pic of the design here:
This looks great, but when you measure everything out, there is only about an inch of space between the machines and the cabinet on the sides and the top. Since the stacking kits connect in the sides and the back of the the units, you have to install them (and remove them) as a set. Once they go in, you can't slide them out, because they sit in this recessed drain pan. At least not without lifting the whole stack up a couple of inches, which I don't think you could do without a fork lift.
I am now also concerned on how you'd install them with the water, venting and gas lines in the back. One set would be easy to do. But I don't know how you could do the second set. You'd have to connect everything with the stack about 40 inches in front of the wall, and then slide them in and hope nothing got tangled or crimped.
Now the cabinet depth around those units is about 20" or so the units are around 30" deep, so they do stick out a foot or so. But since the they sit in the pan I still don't understand how you could remove them if one of them died and had to be replaced.
I have seen pics of these types of installs on houzz before, so maybe I am missing something and its not a problem. I am going to talk to the GC about this tomorrow (I just started worrying about this I started looking at the dimensions of the laundry units I was picking out), but thought I'd ask you all first so I would have some advice about if this was a problem or not first.
thanks
mike
Comments (17)
PRO5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoRelated Discussions
Is this closet big enough for a full sized stacked washer/dryer
Comments (9)I have a 27"- 28"ish wide closet for our Bosch (it's 23.5"). It was as wide as we could go. My only recommendation is that you confirm where the plug is on the stack unit you get before you do any electrical. Fiance wanted the plug low and now the cord is too short to plug in and getting the unit into place is really hard. You may want to give yourself a bit more room than we did. It will save you a lot of hassle. Many of the units by Bosch and Miele are only 24" to 26" wide, you would have to be more concerned about depth and door swing on a front loader. Even those fairly cheap stack able Thin Twins by Whirlpool/Kenmore/Maytag (whatever) are often 24" to 27" wide but then vary on depth. They are frequently "full size" ore close to it. I just caution you against making the same mistake we did with electrical. We did not make the mistake with plumbing though. Make sure you put your hookups in a accessible place. We already needed to turn our water off when one of the hoses got knocked off when we put the unit it place (the Bosch tech did it even). We were sure glad that those hook ups were on the side instead of the back. Much easier in a tight spot. It was worth the cost to move that small amount of plumbing. Good Luck!...See MoreNew Washer/Dryer Wiring
Comments (7)"Your Bathroom has no electrical outlet?" Well, since you've exhumed this thread, would an affirmative answer to that question affect D&K's advice? I find this a murky code issue to interpret and I'd be interested in other opinions from anyone willing to chime in. As a starting point, NEC 210.11 (C) requires certain dedicated branch circuits in dwelling units including: (1) two 20-amp circuits for kitchen appliances, (2) one 20-amp circuit for laundry and (3) 20-amp circuit(s) for bathroom receptacles. Before getting into the exceptions, we begin with the premise that these circuits are dedicated, in the sense that they have no other outlets. But (wouldn't you know it?), there are exceptions and here's the one that appears, at first glance, to be on point and controlling: 210.11(C) Exception. Where the twenty-ampere circuit supplies a single bathroom, outlets within the same bathroom shall be permitted to be supplied in accordance with 210.23(A) OK, so it's sounding like we'd be good to go by adding a receptacle to the otherwise dedicated bathroom circuit for a washing machine, right? So let's read on to clarify the additional reference above: 210.23(A) Exception: The small appliance branch circuits, laundry branch circuits, and bathroom branch circuits required in a dwelling unit(s) by 210.11(C)(1), (2), and (3) shall supply only the receptacle outlets specified in that section. In the OP's case, exactly what does "outlets specified in that section" mean? And doesn't the 210.23A exception seem to be at odds, at least in part, with the 210.11(C) exception? Hmmmm. It seems to me that, for the purposes of code interpretation, the OP's room is both a bathroom AND laundry area. So, just because the areas are co-located in the same room, does that magically permit merging the laundry circuit requirement and the bathroom circuit requirement into a single 20-amp circuit? I have my serious doubts about that. My stab at an interpretation is that you might be able to add additional receptacles for "bathroom use" (e.g., another place to plug in a hair dryer?) just as you can add additional receptacles to the laundry circuit for "laundry type" equipment (e.g., a place to plug in a steam iron?), but it's highly questionable that it meets code to turn two required circuits into one. Taken together, the intent of the mandatory circuits requirements is to ensure independent and adequate capacity for each of two normal household functions. IMHO, using a single circuit would certainly defeat the intent of the code. If it were me, I wouldn't wire a laundry machine receptacle to the required bathroom circuit and I certainly wouldn't bet the ranch on a savvy AHJ approving it. Anyone else have a more authoritative answer?...See MoreLaundry Centers / Stackable Washer-Dryers
Comments (3)I also have a washer dryer in the kitchen. While I love my compact electrolux the matching dryer takes 240... I looked at the laundry centers long and hard...the thin twin kept being the favorite but for looks, if it will be visible in your kitchen, I'd opt for the new gray Frigidaire ( OK, I'm shallow). You need to consider your load size, when I really looked at the size of the loads that I was running a small washer was just fine. ( I also prefer to throw on a load of day and never have it stack up.) I was able to use two different laundry center units while we were on vacation. One of them was much easier to lean over and pull the laundry out of the washer than the other. I recommend you check reviews, find the model that you are thinking of purchasing in a store and lean over and imagine yourself pulling the laundry out of the washer (noticing in particular where the door of the dryer is in relation to your head, will you constantly hit your head on it?) because that is what you going to do. Most laundry centers do not have reversible doors so you need to pay attention to what your space requirements are for the door opening. Alternatively, you may still be able to buy a used gas dryer of the smaller size. You can buy 120 V dryers. What some people have done is to purchase a 120V washer dryer combo-one machine and a second machine that is a 120 V dryer. The issue with the smaller machines is that in order for the dryer to be effective the wash load has to be split in two so they wash a full load in the washer dryer combo and then dry half of the load in the dryer and dry the other half in the washer dryer combo. You should also be aware that there are high speed spinners on the market so if your washing machine doesn't spin enough water out and drying takes forever, you may want to buy one of these, I think they spin for all of two minutes, remove substantial amounts of water, and cost less than $100....See MoreHow long are the washing/ drying times for Miele washer and dryers
Comments (33)I just read an article about Consumers Reports testing. In it, Consumers Reports said that they test an 8-pound load using the Normal Cycle(the Energy Saving Cycle) with it's with its most aggressive setting. and without options. For Miele that would be the Normal Cycle using heavy soil. They further stated that you can get a shorter cycle if you are using the Normal soil setting on washers. For Miele, using the heavy soil and for an 8-pound load you might well expect an hour and 5-minute cycle, it will be a lot less on the Normal cycle with normal soil. In real life, if you have heavy soil, there are other cycles that will be better suited for this. When you set up the machine, the first run you make is the calibration cycle in which the machine asses your incoming water temperature and electrical input and from that it will set up the times for cycles, so your cycle times will depend on your own home environment. The other thing to know is that the times displayed at the start will be for the maximum amount of clothes, and for Normal that will be 18 pounds. After a few minutes, the machine will have an idea of the number of clothes in it and will adjust the time down for smaller amounts of clothes. If you are considering a Miele machine I would advise that you log on to the Miele web site and download the operation manuals for each machine before you purchase. This way you can tell the differences between them and what they offer....See MoreRelated Professionals
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5 years ago
PRO5 years ago- PRO5 years agolast modified: 5 years ago
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5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoWhat do you need in your laundry space. I like many of the ideas that others have posted. I would suspect you need hanging space. Ironing space. Storage space. dirty laundry hampers. storage for brooms, and vacuum possibly. If you go with a built in, I would do generic sizing for machines, so that you can switch out brands. The best idea I think is to have side by side single set in basement and another set near the bedrooms. The side by side allows the water shut off and drain to be above the counter for easy access. You might have to move out the dryer for vent maintenance, unless you go with a ventless model.
You absolutely need access quickly to water valves and dryer vent, and electrical outlets. I don't see that in your plan.
I have a small built in cabinetry and w/d on my main floor. It is perfect for our family of 2.
When I planned for the main floor built in, I did all the design myself. I have an access to one side to get to the water shut off valve, drain pipe, and dryer vent (for clean out). I can reach into the lower cabinet open area to access the electrical outlets. I have about an inch on either side of the built in, and it is not a problem sliding the set out. I do not have a pan under the set, after a lot of thought. My machine pump clean-out is in the front of the washer, so no need to move the machines. When I was moving the machines in and out during the remodel, it was no big deal to slide the machines out. But that is a rare instance. There are several inches at the top of the machines.
This set up is custom to my Miele set which is of a smaller design. The room was a constraint for size. I am not sure if a Bosch set will fit, but that could be an alternative set for me in the future, if needed.
I always shut my water off when we leave for a few days. I also have a double stacked set in the basement of used machines for my DH farm clothes. I always shut the water off after my weekly farm clothes wash up.
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5 years agoPersonally, I would prefer all four be in a row and on storage pedestals to save bending or stretching to load and unload.
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