Thanks all for posting. I have stalled out on the remodel but will be back in action this next week when my carpenter can start. I have a new carpenter coming to appraise the progress of the job and start next week. Long story, but this new carpenter is actually the one I wanted originally but not unavailable so went with someone else (who didn't work out). Here is a plan view as asked for, and an elevation. The two walls that create the corner where the W/D sit are both load bearing walls. The blue square in upper left corner is the Miele W/D stack. The gray square to the right of W/D is the cabinetry and where I plan to access the shut off valve and dryer venting. These utilities will be in the back wall accessible through the shelving inside the cabinet: This elevation shows cabinets to the right of the W/D and will have the shut off valve inside the cabinet, reachable through the shelving. This elevation rendition is not current. Instead, I plan to have doors above counter height, and have the below counter area open, without a door: Shut off Valve: I have a manual shut off valve with the drain hole (all in one box) mounted by the plumber. This will be easily accessible from the side of the set, inside the cabinet. Hoses: I have the Floodchek hoses on site and ready for installation. Overflow Pan: I was thinking of a overflow pan such as this one I have linked below. It has a 5 gal capacity and has a 24x24 outside dimension. Anti-Vibration: I still have not made a platform for the set but was thinking of 2 plywood 3/4" sheets with a sandwiched mass loaded vinyl sheet in between as recommended by Mongoct on the bathroom forum. Otherwise the anti-vibration feet that Deke mentions might work and a lot less trouble. I have see some anti-vibration feet on the Grainger web site for heavy machinery. I might try those. Here is a link: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ecatalog/K-16/N-/No-0/Ntt-anti+vibration+pads?Ndr=textsearchesinbase%2Btrue&sst=subset Dryer Venting: I have been planning to bring it out the right side of the set, and accessible in the back of the cabinet, for cleaning ease. I may not be able to place it in the wall as the studs are in the way of the joist space for the ducting. If I can have the carpenter frame out the stud wall for a dryer vent I will. I want ridged venting, and have it accessible to the side of the dryer (not behind the dryer). If this can't be done within the wall space, I will have to put a hole in the floor in front of the wall for the venting, concealing it behind the cabinet. though this will make it vulnerable to bumping with the laundry basket that I plan to keep in the lower area below the counter. My machines are at the warehouse waiting. Any comments or recommendations are welcome! Thanks again :) Here is a link that might be useful: slide-n-fold pan

We are getting ready to renovate (with the help of a plumber) our laundry closet on the 2nd floor of our condo. We have purchased a stackable LG washer/dryer set and will be installing a new utility sink where the old washer used to be. There is a floor drain already in place under the flooring but the old washer was in a pan that didn't use it. I plan to use it in the renovation. It is 2" PVC pipe and will sit below the utility sink. I have designed (on paper) a drain pan that will be built with 1/8" steel and then powder coated bright white for aesthetic purposes. It will cover every inch of the closet floor to protect from leaks from the washer or the utility sink. I have a couple questions about how to best utilize the floor drain: 1. Is it necessary for the pan to have a slight slope for draining, this could be difficult since the washer and dryer require a very even surface to reduce vibration. 2. How should the drain coming out the bottom of the pan be designed? Is it best to have a small hollow cylinder and attach to it some durable 3/4" tubing and feed it loosely into the 2" PVC? Or would a direct connection using a shower drain that would seal with the 2" PVC below work best? Any helpful comments would be appreciated

The project was finished last week - here's what we did: A string was tied to the pipe under the floor to pull the drain into the steel pan. Added 1/2" thick cement board on top of existing 2 layers of 3/4 " thick plywood. 1/8" steel pan (3" high) with a shower drain attached was dropped in on top and leveled with shims. I decided not to slope. Used the string to pull the pipe into the drain. Got a plumber to add connections for the utility sink. I modified the dryer to vent out the side so it could fit in the closet space. Sink and washer/dryer were installed without problems.

What do you need in your laundry space. I like many of the ideas that others have posted. I would suspect you need hanging space. Ironing space. Storage space. dirty laundry hampers. storage for brooms, and vacuum possibly. If you go with a built in, I would do generic sizing for machines, so that you can switch out brands. The best idea I think is to have side by side single set in basement and another set near the bedrooms. The side by side allows the water shut off and drain to be above the counter for easy access. You might have to move out the dryer for vent maintenance, unless you go with a ventless model. You absolutely need access quickly to water valves and dryer vent, and electrical outlets. I don't see that in your plan. I have a small built in cabinetry and w/d on my main floor. It is perfect for our family of 2. When I planned for the main floor built in, I did all the design myself. I have an access to one side to get to the water shut off valve, drain pipe, and dryer vent (for clean out). I can reach into the lower cabinet open area to access the electrical outlets. I have about an inch on either side of the built in, and it is not a problem sliding the set out. I do not have a pan under the set, after a lot of thought. My machine pump clean-out is in the front of the washer, so no need to move the machines. When I was moving the machines in and out during the remodel, it was no big deal to slide the machines out. But that is a rare instance. There are several inches at the top of the machines. This set up is custom to my Miele set which is of a smaller design. The room was a constraint for size. I am not sure if a Bosch set will fit, but that could be an alternative set for me in the future, if needed. I always shut my water off when we leave for a few days. I also have a double stacked set in the basement of used machines for my DH farm clothes. I always shut the water off after my weekly farm clothes wash up.