If you are experiencing heat like we are in southwest AR and lots of Texas then you better not go below 3 inches right now. Keep it watered. Bald spots will fill in eventually. Maybe next year when it comes back the spots will fill in. Also next year expect some winter kill of your first year Bermuda and plan to fight the invasion of weeds. Creating a perfect lawn takes continuous work, patience, and good weather, among other things. The quick solution would have been solid sod with an irrigation system but that is expensive. I'm a fanatic and have a 3 acre Bermuda lawn that is 5 years old. As much as I love the lawn I can't compete with 2 or 3 months of 100 degree heat everyday and virtually no rain. Forget the "beautiful" lawn for now. I'm just trying to keep it alive and I'm slowly losing ground. Hopefully rain will come and the temps will drop.......patience my friend, patience.

Hmmm.... Well, there seems to be several different beliefs as to how to do this. Yes, you could remove the lid a few hours every day until you finally just leave it off. Another way would have been to place the whole pot inside a plastic baggie, soak the pot pretty good, seal the bag and leave it for a year! Believe it or not, I know of a few people that use this method religiously and just about always end up with fat, healthy seedlings twice as large as any of my year old seedlings! But I've always done as you have except I've never fertilized as they're usually too young to handle the fertilizer. SO, I'd cut the fertilizer and just keep removing the lid for a little longer each day... although, being seedlings, they are adapted to a higher humidity. They grow under the shade of a "nurse plant", be it a larger cactus, a tree, a bush or a weed. Where ever it grows, it usually has more moisture than you'd expect. Guess that's why the 1 year bag method works as well as it does. But don't be afraid about watering them. If they start to look too round and fat, then maybe skip a watering or two. I will say, Of all the seedlings I've grown, the ones that always seem to do the best and get the largest are the ones I didn't plant and just discover growing under a larger plant! This could just be because I don't know how long it's been there, or because it's growing under the conditions it evolved to grow under. Hope your seedlings do well how ever you do it

Hi, I think you need to get rid of the weeds first. I used Weed B Gon and had very good results. Took care of the clovers and dandelions and other stuff. Some remarks on WBG... -Bottle says it covers 16000sqft but that is only for warm season grasses. It only covers half for cool season grass. -Even though it says it works in 24hours, I did not see it work that fast. Well, the clovers looked depressing, that was all. It took about 2 weeks to notice the results. -You will see weeds growing like they're on steriods in the first few days after application. This is normal as it is depleting the weed's nutrients. I did some searching and you need specific type of WeedBGon to kill creeping charlie. One user on GardenWeb commented... "We tried many kinds of weed killers, and the Creeping Charlie in our lawn laughed at every kind UNTIL... it was pointed out to us at a garden and hardware store that we needed the Weed B Gone with the label that prominently says it kills Oxalis weeds. It is a different kind from Weed B Gone Max. We had a hard time finding the Oxalis specific formula Weed B Gone, but after several stores we got some, and my friends, it was the magic we had looked for. Charlie was gone after a couple of applications. We had tried everything from manually weeding, to plowing under whole patches of our yard, and a lot of expensive useless chemicals in between. But I'm here to say we have the problem conquered with Weed B Gone Oxalis formula." Looks like you need Weed B Gone that kills Oxalis weeds.

You've probably seen the definition of insanity: doing the same thing over and over and expecting different results. If your landscaper is at a loss as to whether the soil chemistry is good or bad and cannot figure out how to fix it, then you need to fire him. He's not a landscaper, he's a lawn mower. A landscaper would have had the soil tested at the beginning. And a landscaper would not have continued to bring in more and more top soil. At this point, before you do anything, you need to take a hard look at your drainage. Is your lawn crowned significantly (higher) in the middle and sloping off to the sides? Is the whole area on a slope (which could be mitigating circumstances)? When it rains does any water collect and puddle on concrete near the house? If so you should have the soil removed which is blocking your drainage. <img src="http://bloy.net/images/2013/07-21-large.jpg"> Water should drain off of concrete into the soil, not the other way around. If you're getting this then soil needs to be removed. Once you've established a final soil level (whether you remove soil or not), get the soil tested at Logan Labs in Ohio. Then post your results here on this forum. Look down the forum topics list for other Logan Labs soil tests to see what you get by posting the results. The basic test is $25 and is all you need. When they ground the roots, did they remove the ground up chips or did they bury them in your yard or the hole where the stump was. Sawdust or wood chips should never be buried or rototilled into the soil. There's a long biological explanation for why, but essentially the decomposing wood underground robs nitrogen from the soil leaving none for the grass or other plants. It can take 10 years or more before the soil can recover from buried wood. If your wood chips were scattered on top of the lawn, that should be fine, but just not buried. If they were buried or raked in, that might be a good reason to remove soil from the surface. Is there still much shade in this area? What was your watering schedule for when the new seed was down? How often and for how long? And what is your watering schedule for the rest of the lawn? Where do you live? What kind of grass were you seeding?