Using Scott's starter was fine (expensive, but fine). In this case, it looks like you're starting to see the impact of encroaching summer on a lawn planted at the wrong time. For now, continue to water unless it completely blasts out. Which it might, depending on the weather. Then reseed in August just as temperatures begin to drop off their highs, which will have the grass sprouting just a bit later, and laying down root mass as fall moves in and the weather is completely compatible with root growth. By next summer, that lawn will be a lot more durable, although you'll still need more watering than you would on a mature lawn. For seeding a lawn, 2 to 3 light water applications per day are preferable, 1 to 2 is required. Then back off slowly as the grass starts to mature, increasing the length of the irrigation while backing off how often it happens. The ultimate goal is to end up with a lawn that can go 7 to 14 days on one irrigation in reasonable weather, half that in very hot weather.

Don't do any of those things. Let the grass that has germinated continue to grow. Cut back on the watering frequency but start increasing the volume per session. You want to slowly start transitioning to watering only once a week (and watering for a long enough time to put down 1 inch of water as measured by a rain gage or tuna can). Cut it when it's 3 inches tall to a height of 2 inches; make sure it (and the soil) is dry on that day! After the first cut, raise your mower blade height to the highest setting (ideally 3.5 to 4 inches). That is the height you want the fescue to be maintained at. Never cut off more than 1/3 off at once (so cut when it's about 5 inches tall). Because your lawn is new ... And because you made the big mistake of planting in the spring, you WILL get weed pressure. Resist the urge to apply any herbicide. Your grass will weaken as a result. Resist the urge, resist the urge, resist the urge. Fall is the ideal time to plant fescue, but what's done is done and you will be throwing money away by spraying herbicide. Resist the urge. On Memorial Day, think about putting down an application of lawn food. I wouldn't recommend any Turf Builder or other synthetic fertilizer until the fall, but organics are great. I like Milorganite personally because it's safe for kids/animals and won't burn the lawn. Give it another dose of organic lawn food on July 4th. Once the lawn your put down has established, you might be surprised how well the bare spots will fill in. (Even with fescue.) deep and infrequent watering + mowing high and often is the recipe for success. For any bare spots that you are still unhappy with come September, save yourself some trouble and just buy a jug of Scotts EZ Seed. It should match the Scotts tall fescue that you put down already. It's meant for patching and it's kind of goof proof.

I think with your location you can reseed even in the summer. You will have to watch the grass as it comes in for signs of drying out. With the lifestyle in play, you need a grass that will refill by itself after damage. Kentucky bluegrass is that turf for your area. It has the downside of often turning brown in the winter, so many people will mix it with fescue, which remain green in the winter. The front needs to be restarted. The back can likely be fixed without a complete renovation. If you have a lawn mower, mulch mow the front weeds at the highest mower setting to get a feel for how bumpy the surface is. Now would be the time to level the surface if it seems extremely bumpy. Believe me, a bumpy surface will make you crazy after awhile. Leveling the surface is relatively easy when you have a blank slate. It's a matter of scraping off the high spots and filling the low spots (with the soil you scraped from the high spots). Then watering to settle all the soil and rechecking for high and low spots. Use a drag to move the soil around. They use drags to tune up the infield surfaces on baseball fields and arenas for horse shows. You can DIY one with a board and some chain link fencing. If you run out of high spots to scrape off before you fill the low spots, then bring in some topsoil. I'm thinking by the bag, not by the cubic yard. Scatter, drag, water, repeat. Three times should be plenty. Once you have it leveled, start shallow watering on a daily basis to germinate all the weed seeds in the lawn. After a week, spray with Round Up to kill everything. Continue watering lightly for another week to get the weed seeds that take 2 weeks to germinate. Then spray with RU again. Give that dose a few days to work and then you can rake up the dead weeds everywhere. Then it is time to put the lawn seed down. By germinating all the weeds first, you should have a bare minimum of weeds in your new lawn. Scatter the seed, roll it down with a water fillable roller (rented), and continue with the light watering - this time to germinate the grass seed. Rye grass takes a week to germinate, fescue takes 2 weeks, and KBG takes 3 weeks to germinate. This means if you stop the daily watering after week 1, you'll have minimal fescue and no KBG at all. By the time the KBG finally sprouts, the rye will be going like gangbusters (that's probably not a saying anymore). When the grass gets up around 5 inches, you can mow it back to 4 inches (highest setting on the mower).

It looks like, more than anything else, you need plants that act as groundcovers, and some mulch. The plants could be any number of flowering perennials, As long as they are not too tall, except at the background, it would look fine. Since there is a history of weeds, it will take some policing to keep them from re-establishing. Where an area remains unplanted, you can carefully spray glyphosate, keeping it, and drift, off of the other plants. Where a planting is completed, you can use Preen on a schedule. (Hit or miss, or poorly timed applications are not too effective.)