To install new receptacles in a bath, AND remain code legal, would require a dedicated 20 amp circuit and GFI protection.

This circuit can serve all bath receptacles if ALL they serve is the just receptacles. This is obviously not the best way to go though from a practical standpoint.
A dedicated circuit to each bath is optimal.

petey, if the existing is only a receptacle in the light fixture, couldn't the homeowner at minimum put a GFCI next to the existing switch. This would be a minimum upgrade from existing, while not up to current code, better than what was there.
blinddog

That may not be as simple as it sounds if there is only a switch loop from the light to the switch (i.e., no neutral). Most older homes were wired this way, with power to the light.
As Petey says are the only code compliant ways.

Normel got the message.
"Code compliant" is the key. I am NOT condoning a non-code installation, but unfortunately what you do to sell your house is up to you.

I am a nut about having receptacles around water even if GFCI protected but that's just me. One of the most common uses of bathroom receptacles is a hair dryer and these pull a lot of amps. Also, the OP does not say if there is any type of vent in these bathrooms and if the bathrooms are on a circuit with any other rooms in the house. IMO, do it correctly or leave it for the buyer to correct.

If you don't do it to code, the buyer's inspector is likely to flag it and you'll end up doing it over - or hiring whatever pro you can get to come over before the sale closes (not the best situation for getting a low bid). Might as well do it right the first time.

so the majority opinion would be either do it completely to code regardless of cost or do nothing at all?

Yes. Also, that electrical panel may be dangerous - many of the 'push button' type panels are - and really should be replaced. Is it a Federal Pacific panel by any chance?

You should either sell the house as is, with the problems disclosed up front, or do a heavy up and run new circuits.

Thanks for all your inputs though I'm still not sure what I'm required to or should do. It sounds like if I make any electrical changes at the home (short of changing the light bulbs) that it needs to be done to current electrical standards which could cascade into a major job. Even if I wanted to make the kitchen safer by replacing an outlet with a GFCI outlet, that would be illegal (not per code) since it wouldn't be on a dedicated circuit. FYI The kitchen wall outlets are on the same lines as a couple of the outlets in the adjoining dining room. Doesn't the code tell one how to deal with any existing/old construction issues? Thus still code compliant. I'm sure the house was wired to the prevailing code/standards of its day. I know the safest route would be to modernize the electrical system to current codes but it doesn't seem practical. Homes like this and much older (and much more antiquated wiring) are bought/sold every day. I suspect (not sure)todays code has some significant differences from the code 10 years ago. Are all those homes now unsafe? Where does one draw the line?

BTW Two of the bathrooms (one tub/one shower)have fans with separate switches for lights and a fan. I believe there were single switches originally and was changed a very long time ago by my father. The third bathroom (with shower) has no fan but has a window. Also I believe the circuits in each bathrooms are not dedicated but I'm not sure since I don't recall dealing with them. I probably just think this because from experience the rest of the house (ie Kitchen, recreation room, etc...) doesn't seem to have any organized way in which the circuits where wired to the panel. Also I don't know what brand the panel is; I looked at it again today and there were no markings on the outside. I'll check on some of these details soon.

Thanks again

"Also, that electrical panel may be dangerous - many of the 'push button' type panels are - and really should be replaced."

Not true at all, if you are referring to ITE/Gould/Bulldog Pushmatic panels. They are actually very good and have a low failure rate.

There are a lot of electricians out there who dispute that. It's not a Zinsco or Stab-Lok, and many say they are fine.. but many say they're problems as well. Frankly, the house is going to need a heavy up soon anyway, so doing it now is probably a good idea. Either that or don't touch anything and be prepared to make a concession to the buyer for some of the electrical upgrade cost.. that will often go over better since they feel "compensated" for having to fix the electric after they buy.

35 years ago when I wasn't an electrician, we purchased our present home that was built in 1959. Although I was astute about these matters from remodeling two homes, there was nothing about the electrical that bothered me. There were no GFCIs in any of the three baths or the kitchen. I figured that what ever electrical that I might want to upgrade was at my expense. Never occured to me to make a big deal of any of the issues that might exist with the former owner. Home inspection? Didn't even know there were folks that did that.

Suggest you leave every thing alone. If as perel allows, a potential buyer wants the electrical updated, offer him an allowance IF they even make an issue. Now, we have done service upgrades for sellers and buyers. Doesn't make any difference to us who is paying the bill.

Home inspectors are not supposed to comment on code issues. They are not code officials. Most of the houses they inspect are homes that were built more than 10 years ago. They inspect the systems of the house to make sure they work for the most part. They won't give you a red flag if something is not up to code because 99% of the house WON'T be updated to code.

I agree that a major electrical overhaul is not necessary if you are thinking about selling. Leave that decision up to the buyer.

Also I can't see how it would hurt you if you change the existing kitchen countertop outlet to a GFCI. I think it's better to do it than just leave it alone.