Hi, We have a similar issue with our new construction. The electrician put the outlet for our 6ft island on the wrong end. This is an expensive custom-made island with black,rubbed over, and stained beadboard panels. We did not want an outlet on the exposed dining area side, but there it is. The electrician is now saying that we need 2 outlets, one on each side to meet CODE. Our expeditor is skeptical also. We have a difficult building inspector to work with...and it is now in her hands to decide the issue. If she says we need two then I guess thats the way it will be. Otherwise the electrician is responsible for a new island. What does everyone think?

and found that it is acceptable to put a 15 amp receptacle on a 20 amp non dedicated circuit. I also checked several existing duplex receptacles on other 20 amp circuits and they are all 15 amps. So now my question is, should I change the gftr to a 20 amp leaving the others at 15 amps or continue to try to connect the ground (#12) to the 15 amp gftr? Lutron tech support recommended 20 amp duplex receptacles if protected by a 20 amp breaker. They also said the ground screw on the 20 amp gftr will back out more allowing connection of the #12. They must very tight specs on the construction of the 15 and 20 amp gftrs.

It's even likely that I'd have to go with an even bigger panel so that I can run everything that I need. If there's good news here, it's that a larger subpanel shouldn't be that expensive, unless you're really cramped for physical space or you've already run a feeder that's too small. And with NEC '08 looming, it isn't the best of times to buy a small suitcase and pack it to the brim, if you catch my drift. The fact is, a larger panel (say, 20 full slots) would probably cost about the same--or less--than 2 combination type AFCI breakers! That's where a lot of the money goes--those suckers are almost 10 times as expensive as regular breakers. (Groan.) When it comes to home wiring, the price of poker is on its way up--big time! Adding to my reply above: Part of the confusion about what bedroom coverage is required may have to do with code history. Without taking the time to verify the language exactly, here's my recollection of the story: I believe it was the 1999 code which introduced the AFCI-in-bedrooms issue and it used the word "receptacle". The 2002 code broadened the definition to "outlet". (And blackadder is 100% correct in noting that "outlet" means lighting fixtures too.) This led to confusing debates over whether protection had to be at the circuit level, or whether individual AFCI receptacles could be used. That confusion was removed by the 2005 definition that clearly specified circuits. (And, again, I should also acknowledge blackadder for noting that it is circuits with outlets in bedrooms!) Since "outlets" includes smoke detectors, there's another thing you might want to run by your inspector before you complete your wiring. Some jurisdictions enforce local fire codes (not electrical codes!) that require hard-wired smoke detectors on dedicated circuits. Other local jurisdictions require that smoke detectors NOT be put on dedicated circuits. (The argument is that it is more likely to be noticed if the circuit is out of order when there are other loads.) GO FIGURE! It is possible, even if unlikely, that in your jurisdiction, interlinked smoke alarms will need an additional circuit. That's the kind of thing that can really louse you up if you have a box already stuffed to the gills. Also, the kick-in date for extended AFCI coverage to all living spaces (not just bedrooms) of Jan. 1, 2008, is actually given in the 2005 NEC! That means that it is possible that in your jurisdictionm next New Years Day is indeed a deadline that will kick in automatically by operation of law even if your jurisdiction has not yet adopted to the new code in its entirely. Hope your head isn't spinning by now. The bottom line? Yeah, consult with your AHJ. Definitely. radioguy: Are you sure that a new bedroom circuit in your area doesn't require AFCI protection? If you're right about that, it is not the typical case at all. I'm not doubting your probity but, frankly, I'm skeptical.

I haven't got time to find a pic right now, but we put a 7' window over our main sink. I searched and found a 43" sink, and then placed the outlets in the window returns. It just makes the 24" rule on each side. The window returns are flared on a 45 degree angle to soften our thick walls. The inspector was vague about the outlets in the window returns, but they passed it OK. Found a pic- sort of. One outlet is hidden behind the coffee maker, the other one you can see through the glass container. You can see the concept in the other window, just to the right of the mixer.