Hey, if any of you are able to pull away from your fight and help a fellow tradesman, my 9 yr old heil heat pump is tripping my indoor breaker about every 7 hours or so. I changed the breaker and it tripped that one every 30 minutes. The heat pump.is the only item on the circuit. I replaced the 50/5 capacitor in.april. i.also.replaced the contavt switch at the same.time.as it was low in.voltage. my hvac guy came.out when the.pronlem.first started 3 days ago and he said my breaker was tripped. I asked him.since he was there could he check.the unit and.make.sure the unit was ok. He said it was. So why is the unit tripping my indoor breaker still? Maybe a dying compressor that is using more amps.ro.run? Thanks for your help in advance.

Thanks, golfgeek! I re-read what I typed and I realize I misspoke - our pump doesn't drain water out until I open the lid. The action of just stopping the pump (i.e., for a timer cycle to conserve electricity) doesn't result in water draining from the pump or the pump losing its prime. I would think that it's normal for water to drain back through the system once the lid is off, because the seal has broken and the plumbing is not under any pressure at that time. I thought the water flows back into the pool/underground pipes, likely equalizing in the pipes at the level of the water in the pool. Similar to a P-trap. Is that crazy talk? Also, Melissa, I'm sorry for hijacking your thread. But now I'm all nervous about a leak! :) We did have a pool guy out to look for a leak several weeks ago while doing some other maintenance, because we were seeing a few air bubbles in the pump lid when it was running - a very few, but still, it was enough to check on. He ran the hose over all the fittings, didn't find anything obvious but ended up repiping some of the above-ground pipes but never really got ALL the bubbles to disappear, but they are very few and we're OK with it for now. Sidenote: he actually found a archeological artifact IN one of the PVC pipes. It was a rusty screwdriver... I suspect a different pool guy from last year left it in the pipe when he accidentally stepped on, broke, and subsequently re-piped a line back there when installing our freeze-guard timer. That guy appeared to be ... very chill, very relaxed, let's say. He might have tripped over his own flip-flop while fixing the pool. After his repair, I told him I could hear a loud "THOCK" noise each time the pump started to get primed and thought there was something wrong but he blamed it on water hammer since our newly fixed line was so water and air tight. Ha! Haven't heard "water hammer" since the screwdriver was removed.

Same issue here, only my breaker box is 25' from the door of my crawlspace and I got tired of going under there and quit for today. Just left the light on while the switch says off. I am sure I wired the new light the same as the old one was wired. It's the end of a 3 fixture string. There are 2 black, a white, a grey, and a ground. The 2 blacks were with the black on the fixture. The white and grey were with the white of the fixture. The ground to the ground. I mean, that's simple, right? How could I have messed that up? Now the switch is in the off position and the light is on. Turn it off and trip the breaker. Keep the switch at off and reset the breaker and it trips immediately. I plan to undo and redo it tomorrow, but I don't fathom any new result. Any thoughts and/or advice? I am not a professional but I do reviews for Kichler so I've installed and/or replaced more ceiling fixtures than I can count and thus has never happened before. Thanks- Karen

I would replace the capacitor if I was you, continuing to do that to your fan can burn out the motor eventually. Note: I cannot edit what I posted a couple posts above (pre houzz merge), what I said about the capacitor was wrong. The capacitor charges constantly when supplied power, it just discharges when the fan is turned on, giving the boost needed to make the fan move from stand still. After that, the fan motor keeps the fan moving. It wouldnt hurt to give it a minute to charge before using after replacing with new. In reality it probably only takes like 10 to 15 seconds. That is what I was going for with that comment. Probably the time walking from the panel to the switch is long enough.