Please help....bubbles when I turn the pump off
Melissa-Kitchen
10 years ago
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golfgeek
10 years agomuddy_water
10 years agoRelated Discussions
Mower dies when I turn the deck off
Comments (4)It could also indicate a blockage or obstruction in the PILOT JET of the carb (also referred to by various other names like "slow jet", "low speed jet", "idle fuel jet", or even other unprintable names when it gives trouble). Because the pilot jet has a much smaller orifice than the main jet, the pilot jets are more apt to "catch" a small piece of trash than the main jet. Particles that can clog a pilot jet may very well pass right through the main jet. Because the pilot jet has such a tiny orifice, blobs of water can "stop up" the hole as effectively as solid debris. I personally think that if the fuel pump were at fault, or anything else that would affect "MAXIMUM fuel flow", the problem would not be what you describe (removing the load from the engine and reducing throttle to a slower position). If you had a problem related to maximum fuel flow, you would experience things like "it runs OK at idle and will throttle up to high RPM but when I engage the deck, the engines begins to slow down and run rough after a few seconds. If I disengage the deck, the engine soon speeds up again. Or "It does OK until I go up a hill (or other scenario where load on engine increases). In regard to fuel pump at idle RPM versus high RPM: Pulse vacuum fuel pumps have a "relatively flat" output volume at any given RPM. This is due to the time allowed for the pump diaphragm to "react" to the "pressure to vacuum" oscillations of crankcase pressure. At idle RPM, the pulse changes occur fairly slow, so the pump diaphragm is able to move a greater distance with each pulse, because it has enough time to move the greater distance, thus it will move a certain volume of fuel in a given PERIOD OF TIME. At higher RPM, the pulse pressure to vacuum changes occur more often (because of the greater speed of the engine pistons). At higher RPM, the fuel pump moves LESS FUEL PER PULSE, but because the pulses occur at a FASTER RATE, the net output volume of the pump (during the same time span) is about the same as at idle. The volume capacity of the pump is always engineered to be well above the actual requirements of fuel flow needed by the engine anyhow. In operation, the fuel pump will fill up the carb bowl to the "float level". When the float level is attained, the needle valve closes and no more fuel is allowed into the carb until enough fuel is consumed to let the float drop a bit, at which point, additional "make up" fuel is allowed to enter the float bowl. During the times that the needle valve is closed, the fuel pump diaphragm IS NOT MOVING, because it now has a "head of positive fuel pressure" against the diaphragm, preventing it from moving at all. This is the nature of diaphragm type pumps. Carburetted engines are always running "off of" the fuel in the carb bowl at any given moment of operation. If you are running a carburetted engine that uses a fuel pump to transfer fuel from tank to carb, and you "pinch off" the fuel hose to the carb, the engine will not react immediatly to that action (by dying). It will continue to run on the fuel already in the bowl, until it consumes that "finite volume" of fuel. Water in the carb bowl (and other places in fuel system) might be to blame for the problem you are having here. A good clean out of carb and fuel tank (and a new fuel filter) might fix it. The auxiliary tank could certainly "rule out" any concerns about fuel pump performance, but I doubt a fuel pump max flow problem because THAT would cause problems during times of HIGH fuel requirement (cutting or towing heavy) and not when the engine load becomes "lighter"....See MoreLake pump turning off
Comments (1)MD, Make sure you have water from the lake to the pump. That means that the suction line is completely full of water and the pump as well. If you can not completely fill the suction line then you have a bad foot valve. In case you did not realize this the foot valve is a one-way valve and it's purpose is to keep the suction line and pump full of water. You could also have fittings along the way that are not air tight and allowing air to enter the system. Fill the pump through the threaded access hole and see what happens to the water. You can run the pump with the access hole cover loosely on (not threaded down tight)and let some of the leaking air escape until the discharge line is running full, then screw down the access hole cover tight. You will eventually need to replace the foot valve and tighten all the leak points. Aloha...See MoreElectric Heat Pump - and turn off or turn down
Comments (11)DavidAndKasie is correct. Heat pumps CAN be set back (turned down) effectively with a setback thermostat that has smart recovery. First, since you say that you don't understand much about how heat pumps work, let's cover that. A heat pump basically is the same as an ordinary airconditioner, with the addition of a reversing valve that changes its functioning to HEAT the indoors instead of cooling. Air conditioners don't so much MAKE cold as they MOVE heat from one place to another. In cooling mode, heat is moved from inside to outside. That's the hot air you feel blowing from the unit outside (the inside blows cool air). In heating mode, the unit picks up heat from outside and moves it IN (the outside unit blows COLD air, the inside WARM). There technically is heat in the air (or an object) down to scientific absolute zero (-459.67F) when molecular motion stops. It's cheaper from an electric energy expenditure point-of-view to MOVE heat than to CREATE heat. Thus heat pumps are cheaper to operate electrically than glowing-red heating elements. However, when the outdoor temperature drops, particularly to the point of ice/frosting, it's harder for the heat pump to pick up the heat and move it inside. So all heat pump system have an auxiliary heat source, typically standard electric heating elements, that activate as needed when it can't maintain the desired indoor temperature without help. This is called the "balance point" -- the point at which the heat pump can't move heat in fast enough from outside to counteract the heat loss that's occurring through doors, windows, walls, etc. Every system and house is different in that respect. The indoor temp drops below the setpoint (thermostat set on 70°F, room temp is 68°F for example), and a 2nd pair of contacts trigger in the thermostat which turns on the heating elements. Electronic thermostats may also do this based on time. If the system can't reach the setpoint (70°F) within a specific time period, or the thermostat senses that the indoor temperature isn't increasing or isn't increasing fast enough, the elements turn on. Of course, the heating elements pull a lot more electricity and aren't as efficient as the heat pump. So the trick after a setback (or having turned the system completely off) is to raise the temperature SLOWLY so the heating elements DON'T turn on. Electronic setback thermostats designed for heat pumps do this automatically. The computer figures out how soon to start the recovery process so it can raise the temp slowly and hit the target at the specified time without using the auxiliary elements (or minimizing use of them). It may take a few cycles for the computer to "learn" the characteristics of a particular system and get the timing right. You can also do it manually, but you have to PAY ATTENTION and not raise the temp too fast or too high at a time. This may take a couple hours at lower outdoor temps. Beware also that if the outdoor temp is well below the aforementioned "balance point" the system may NOT be able to recover the desired indoor temp at all without use of the auxiliary heating elements. Another aspect of heat pumps that you should know about is defrosting. As mentioned earlier, the outdoor unit in heating mode is basically cooling the outside. During some conditions, particularly wet/freezing weather, the coils can ice-up, like a food freezer that needs defrosting. Air can't blow through the coils when they're clogged with ice, so like a freezer they must be defrosted. The system does that by switching back to AIR CONDITIONING mode for a few mins so the outside coils get warm and melt the ice. Now remember that when running as an air conditioner, the system blows COLD air inside the house. During defrost, the auxiliary heating elements turn on, NOT for the purpose of melting the ice on the coils outside, but to warm up the cold air that would otherwise be blowing in the house. There's no way to prevent defrost from happening, the system does that automatically as needed. Some people say that if the outdoor temp is so low for an extended period that the system is running continuously, the outdoor unit is repeatedly icing over and defrosting, then it's best to set the thermostat to Emergency Heat, which shuts off the heat pump and runs ONLY the heating elements ... since they're being used a lot anyway during the frequent defrost cycles....See MoreUsing IntelliFlo 'feature' to turn Polaris booster pump on/off?
Comments (1)It woudln't be that hard to do. First get one of these.... http://www.amazon.com/Tecmark-Universal-Pressure-Switch-Fittings/dp/B003BGLD8I Then, run the power to the booster pump through a 24vac relay. Run power from a 24vac transformer through the pressure switch, to the relay. Set the pressure switch at 8+ psi so that it makes sure that the pump is running before it allows the booster on....See MoreMiaOKC
10 years agogolfgeek
10 years agoMiaOKC
10 years agoalmost_there
10 years agoandrewthepoolguru
10 years agoCrystal6145
10 years ago
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