Sorry, I gave up monitoring this review a few months ago. We've now had it seven months and we still love it. Keeping the front of the fridge free of fingerprints is a pain, so we've kind of given up on it. I may try the Pledge suggestion. Someone mentioned the ice maker. When it drops new cubes it makes a fairly loud noise, but it hasn't woke us up yet. We haven't had any maintenance problems yet (crossed fingers). I get ice almost every day, so that may help things there. We had to raise the temperature setting for the freezer. Our low fat ice cream was rock hard and impossible to scoop at the default setting (-4 degrees I think). We have it set at +4 degrees and the ice cream is barely scoopable. We keep the ice cream in the sliding drawer at the top of the freezer. In our old SxS, we used to keep the ice cream in the door and it was fine. I guess there was a lot of heat leaking in. The Deli drawer is great; it would be a shame if they got rid of that. We have plenty of room for cheese and cold cuts as well as fresh meat (we use the moveable divider to separate them). The drawer comes way out so it is easy to access everything. The two side-by-side produce drawers are also working well. They are plenty tall enough to handle large heads of lettuce. We keep vegetables on the right and fruit on the left. You can get most stuff out of them by only opening one door. The gallon milk storage in the door is great for us with two growing kids who drink a lot of milk (along with me :) ). We're happy with the amount of freezer space. You can overfill the slide-out drawer which is where we keep all our bread, tortillas, rolls, etc. The shelf attached to the front door of the freezer is great for frozen OJ and ice packs the kids use in their lunches. We haven't run out of space in the fridge yet, so the ice maker in the upper left hand corner of the refrigerator compartment isn't hampering our use of that area. As you can probably tell, we are really happy with this fridge. It is such an improvement over the Kenmore side by side model we had.

Mamagoose, the fold up bed which becomes a dresser is similar to the ones we saw in Ireland in the castle and museum near Shannon. It is like the shaker pegs up high that they would hang chairs from, or even small chests hung on the wall from the "chair rail" and the wainscoting rail which was even higher up the wall. The shakers did not waste an inch of space. And it was flexible for use in different ways. I was thinking of the 4 captain's chairs (Windsor wooden) that my DH wants to keep, but which have no place in the house. I'm planning a high wooden board with good pegs spread on it, in my Teahouse, up high above the cement blocks where the wood framing for the end gables and the roofline begins. I'll hang those four chairs up there to preserve them. Also, if you think about it, a huge table can host a mattress. My former neighbor had a raised captain's bed built with draw curtains and a huge assortment of drawers beneath. Her grandson now has her house, she lives with his parents. Her home thus is staying in the family. The house was a small post WWII construction that my friend bought for her retirement. But it is back to serving a younger generation.

Just wanted to report back and thank everyone for their input. We ended up abandoning the cinder block idea in favor of lightweight, easy-to-install metal beds! Here's a photo of the completed project: Because the area was not actually level to begin with, the back sides of these beds are dug into the ground about 8". There is room on the far right to install one more, but that area is so heavily shaded by the neighbor's shrubs that I don't think vegetables will grow there. We'll probably dig it out and use the area for composting or perhaps plant something shade-loving. Installation was a bit of a chore, but on the bright side we dug out enough dirt in the leveling process to fill the beds, so no need to buy any! We also didn't add any weight to the wall's load, just redistributed what was there, so hopefully we haven't created any new problems with these beds. Thanks again to everyone for your suggestions and sage advice!

Faux custom hack. Real custom comes finished. In a clean room. A true custom maker applies a conversion varnish in a clean room. Otherwise he is not a cabinet maker. He is a woodworker who lacks the skills to finish his product properly. There are a lot of things said as if they were fact, that are in fact, not. The above are some great examples. The number of people who have never sprayed a finish in their entire life who are experts at spraying finishes is astounding. In reality, quality of materials never has and never will equal quality of results. Just like everything else, there are advantages and disadvantages to shop spraying and site spraying cabinets. A lot of the things that are touted as the advantages of a conversion varnish shop finished in a "clean room" (which really isn't a clean room just a spray booth) is mostly marketing. Yes, conversion varnish is the best cabinet finish. But what does that really mean? Is it ten time better? Is it 1% better? How much better is it? In reality, for most users they will never notice the difference between half a dozen finishes. In reality it is like picking the 250 mph sports car over the 225 mph sports car. Which is important if you are a race car driver, but largely unimportant if only drive in heavy commuter traffic. A conversion varnish is harder to work with than a non-yellowing lacquer and many reputable custom cabinet makers choose to use a high build lacquer because it is much easier to get a good finish with. The village idiot could learn to spray a lacquer in a few days of practice and never ruin a piece beyond easily repaired the entire time, on the other hand after 500 gallons of conversion varnish a sprayer still might not be good enough to work well with it. Which is important because in general the sprayer at a cabinet maker isn't going to be that artisan guy. That experienced artisan sprayer is going to a body shop where he will make three times the money. As for the "clean room," a good painter can create a negative pressure environment anywhere, and since you can get a good lacquer that flashes in 20 minutes versus 60-80 minutes for a conversion varnish some of those concerns are alleviated. Remember that a finish that takes 3 times longer to dry must have 3 times less dust to get the same purity of finish. Which brings us to the pictures of a giant exhaust fan above... Do you know how much dust that thing will move around? One reason that many cabinet shops stick with non-yellowing lacquers is because conversion varnish is nasty stuff. I mean there are substantial health risks from conversion varnish, so you have to have either giant exhaust fans or supplied air respirators (my preference), and those giant exhaust fans are going to move a tremendous amount of dust around an area. A finish is the top coat of the cabinets, the thing that people see and when site sprayed it is essentially the final construction of the cabinets. Small modifications made during installation can be addressed, all intrusions can be addressed, etc. when field sprayed. However, it is much harder to get a perfect field spray, however, it is fairly easy to get an acceptable field spray. ------- Having written, what could charitably be called, an entire book about this let me say that I am a fan of conversion varnish, however, I don't think it is a mark of quality. Mostly it is another selling point, for cabinets to people with no real perspective on it. You can say it is the toughest and the best finish without ever really defining how tough or how much better and then someone is going to consider that a mark of quality. If you really want to compare several finishes don't ask about materials, ask to see the tax returns of the guy who is going to be spraying your cabinets. Because in reality, if you aren't a bit impressed by how much he gets paid, then don't expect to be that impressed with your results. These are the boxes that are finished flat, before the glides are attached, and they are put together. That is the only way that you can properly finish a box. You cannot spray a put together cabinet box and get a good job, ever. LOL... We pre-finish because it is easier. Every piece of wainscoting I make is pre-finished because it makes my life easier. However, you can absolutely spray a "put together" piece of furniture and get a good job. In fact, properly done a finish sprayed after assembly is best, it just happens to take 4 times longer.