Hmmm... doesn't sound right, mickdpt. A few things to consider: 1. What setting are you using? If you're using "Damp Dry", then it's supposed to leave the clothes a bit damp -- it assumes you want to iron them afterwards. If you're using Normal, only ligher materials will be completely dried. Heavier fabrics like jeans will still be a little damp around the stitching and pockets. This is by design. For bone dry, use the other settings. 2. After about 3 minutes of usage at Normal setting, is the inside of the dryer at least warm? If not, then it's a good indication that a service call is in order. 3. Moist clothes are a sign of poor ventilation. When I first got my Bosch Vision 500 dryer, I had a similar problem to what you describe. However, my unit *was* giving me the error messages (I got a couple different ones). Turns out that the louvres (the little horizontal flaps) on my vent hood outside, were warped and stuck shut from the heat of my previous dryer. I physically bent them open, and the errors went away. So I learned that you definitely need a clear vent path in order for all of the moisture to escape. Check if that's the problem; you can test by detaching the vent pipe entirely, then drying a load of clothes (it's perfectly safe once or twice -- just make sure the room has adequate ventelation). If that solves the issue, then do the following: a)Check your vent pipe for any obstructions b)Check your vent hood outside to see if the flaps (louvres) are openening and closing easily c)If possible and appropriate, replace your flexible foily corregated pipe with rigid piping (7 feet isn't unreasonable, unless it's 100% flexible foil piping -- this is a no-no according to the documentation).

Nancy... I have the bosch 500, on the secon floor, with a full basement, so thecnically this would be a '3rd' floor... I have no vibration issues at all, although I know others have had vibrations with just about all brands of machines... this is an issue that seems to be totally dependent upon your own house. I don't have the pedestals, didn't want them... they really don't seem to be deep enough to hold much and what would I put in them??? I keep my Charlies in a tupperware on top of the washer, and otherwise... there is nothing else in with the laundry... I don't have a wrikling problem, but I shake out items when moving between the washer to the dryer soe the 'compressed' clothes from the spin are looser... if that makes sense... and yes, you can always adjust the spin down... Adding water... I haven't figured out how to get the machine to do it automatically, but when I want more (particularly heavy thick comforter) I have opened the soap flap and pouted a bucket of water into the machine... I don't know if you can do this with the machines with a soap drawer or not... but with thw soap 'flap' you can... Repair costs in the future... no idea... we did buy through Lowes and got the extended warranty... I've had one service call and they replaced the pump... been working fine ever since... I will be 2 years old in a couple of weeks... I do at least 15 loads per week, sometimes many more... it's a great machine

So.... late last week they called to schedule to come (remember I'm only here to do this Monday and Tuesday each week), so he came today. Said 'after 4' arrived about quarter TO 4... great! Replaced the pump and the control panel behind the selector knob (which cycle/temp know controller).... female describing here! I had him show me how to clean out the drain, so for all you Bosh ownders, here goes... stick something small into the hole inthe cover and rotate it clockwise until the grooves and tabs line up for the cover to fall off (may have to pay with it a bit...) You will see a round black "cover" that you unscrew (be careful and have rags or a wet vac handy there IS water in there... ) then there is a screen that may or may not have "stuff" collected in it... puls you may find other good "stuff" (typically from pockets) in there too... clean it out, put it back together and you're good to go.... Remember, the repair guy said this is something we owners should do with some regularity... although Boschris was pretty emphatic that only service people were to do this... this guy said if you notice the pump not working right check that first... although in my case there was squat in there! yeah... told him I like to find my wash day money before it gets wet! Now... for the 'test' load I started after he left to finish running through to see if this solves my problem... Overall, I'd say the service went well... it did take about 1 - 1/2 weeks for them to get one of the parts in ... which seems like a long time to me... but... given my schedule, they probably wouldn't have been able to come sooner anyway... so it works....

OK, I think it's safe to say that the Bosch dryers are a wee bit overly sensitive to air flow. This is clearly estlablished. Here's a few tip's for EO1 sufferer's. I think the use of flex duct is out of the question to use with these dryers. The straight runs of the flex hose will collect as much lint as a 90 deg. bend smooth sided rigid duct, especially if the flex duct is not fully stretched out. Any flex duct that is not stretched out fully will trap lint like crazy. If you have excess duct, do not leave it bunched up. Stretch it out fully and cut off the excess if you must use it. Smooth sided rigid ducting will reduce lint build up but annual cleaning of any duct on a well used dryer is essential to proper dryer operation and maximum efficiency. Another option that will help people with EO1 syndrome (if feasable), is the use of oversized ducting. You can get adaptors that will allow the use of 5 or even 6 inch ducting that will help increase air flow in long runs of ducting. I don't know if the sensor is operated on temperature or air flow, but it appears that these dryers do not tolerate any air flow obstruction. Another thing to be looked at is proper installation of the duct work. Heat naturally rises and any duct work that flows downward will cause back pressure, just as if it were partially clogged. Any down flowing sections should be removed and rerouted to at least be level, but ultimately flowing upward. Any bends in the duct should be kept to a minimum. If you can get away with a 45 rather than a 90 deg. bend, do it. If possible, make the duct work flow upward all the way to the house vent and keep bends to a minimum. Make sure your outside vent has something on it to prevent critters from entering the duct work, especially if it's near ground level. Don't use a screen on the outside vent unless it has at least 3/4 inch square sized holes and clean it often too. Use foil tape to seal seams and it's a good idea to leave a seam untaped every 6 or 8 feet so that you can easily take the ducts apart for cleaning every year. Anyone who has had to remove that foil tape on a joint will know why I say to leave it off. It's not easy to remove! I found a vent duct brush with a 6 foot wire handle for $6 at a hardware store. A must have to clean the ducts. My wife has one of those ball shaped cob web broom things on an extendable handle. They work great for cleaning ducts too. If you're not into taking the ducts apart,you can buy these plastic things that are advertised as "heating vents" that go in line with your duct work so that you can open the vent and use the heat from your dryer to heat your basement or wherever. They fit in line with the duct work and they have a little lever on them to open and close the vent. If you don't mind 100% humidity in your basement they're fine, but they also allow you access to the vent for cleaning which is what I use them for . They're cheap and are easy to install. The only problem is that you can only clean in one direction when it's open so you'll have to put one every 8 or 10 feet if you have a long run. Just something to consider if you don't want to take the ducts apart for cleaning every year. Hope this helps. Happy duct cleaning!!