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Chef’s Memoirs? Any You Like?

last year
last modified: last year

I only occasionally read memoirs, and hadn’t thought of reading Ina Garten’s, but this article makes me interested:

https://www.nytimes.com/2024/09/28/dining/ina-garten-book.html?unlocked_article_code=1.OE4.Xd0h.ueLUBXh6_QC-&smid=url-share

When I do read memoirs, I often choose those of chefs, because they are naturally about food and cooking and you can pick up ideas and techniques along the way, even if it isn’t one of those memoirs illustrated with recipes.

The most recent chef’s memoir I recall reading was “Eat A Peach“ by David Chang, and I still use his pork belly method. My favorite chef’s memoir was “Kitchen Confidential” by Anthony Bourdain, which didn’t teach me any method but made me want to blast The Ramones, drink and smoke, do drugs, and cook on the line in NYC; fortunately, I was already too old to run away from home.

Other food-heavy memoirs are not by chefs, but by foodies, and those can be even better. Practically everything MFK Fisher wrote was a memoir, and while there’s little method there is a lot of appreciation - and often some France. Sitting in Cafe Eclectique in Marseille reading MFK Fisher’s collection “Two Towns In Provence” is like the reading version of the Star Trek (TOS, of course) episode “City on the Edge of Forever” with Fisher as Joan Collins. Wait. That is unhinged. Maybe I did do drugs in NYC but can’t remember.

Anyway, food, France, and yesteryear, what could be better reading? My favorite writer - hands down - wrote a food-heavy memoir of his time as a young student/gourmand-in/training life in 1920s Paris which transports me to a time and place I dearly wish I’d been. Ref A.J. Liebling, ”Between Meals: An Appetite For Paris” - hard to find, I buy every copy I see. He was in Paris at the same time as Ernest Hemingway, during the years memoir-ialized by Hemingway in “A Moveable Feast”, but the two never, to my knowledge, crossed paths.

Have you a favorite memoir? Could be a chef’s, but needn’t be.

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