can I see the most etched, bleached, #*@!d up black granite you got
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10 months ago
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10 months agolast modified: 10 months agoeld6161
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black marble/granite mix-up
Comments (7)Finally figured out how to imbed a photo in my posting, and the frozen weather has given me the time to do it today. Many thanks for everyone's suggestions. qdognj - despite the fact that the 2x2 tiles are polished, there's no traction problem because of the grout. I was a little worried about this when the decorator suggested it, but it's fine. And I like your idea if I decide to leave it in place. Bill, I appreciate the feedback about porcelain, and your rightous indignation. I live in DC, where lawyers are a dime a dozen (including my husband, who started mouthing words like "fraud"). Given that, it did surprise me that there seemed to be some resistance when clearly they were in the wrong. It now looks like the store will do the right thing, whatever that turns out to be. They think they can provide 2x2 granite tiles of the correct height - and if they can't, I'll be sure to talk to them about grinding them down (thanks, Donna)....See MoreBleach on Granite? Marble?
Comments (17)I just found this on ehow: Clorox has products that work to kill 99.9 percent of salmonella and E.-coli bacteria, and is a registered product with the Environmental Protection Agency. Clorox may be safely used to clean and disinfect sealed granite, Formica countertops and linoleum. Sealer on granite countertops prevent stains from penetrating the stone, and keep it looking polished and shiny. Products that Clorox offers include the regular bleach, which may be used in most rooms of the house to remove germs and sanitize surfaces. Clorox Clean-Up with Bleach offers the same benefits of regular bleach, but with a convenient spray nozzle for everyday use. Clorox Anywhere Hard Surface Daily Sanitizing Spray also kills 99.9 percent of harmful bacteria without leaving behind the chemical residue or odor. This spray is gentle enough to use in the kitchen as needed to sanitize and disinfect granite countertops, and is safe to use around children and pets. Also from ehow: Granite is a type of igneous rock that is used to make curbing, flooring and countertops. Granite countertops can either be made from granite slabs or granite tile pieces. Granite countertops should generally be cleaned with either a mixture of water and liquid dish detergent or a granite soap, however, occasionally, you can use diuted bleach to clean or disinfect a sealed granite countertop. Bleach can also help remove a color stain from granite. Since granite is a rock and naturally porous, do not use bleach on unsealed granite countertops. And from Clorox.com: Clorox� Clean-Up� Cleaner with Bleach is suitable for most bathroom surfaces, including glazed tile, tubs, fiberglass, glass shower doors, vinyl curtains, counters, cabinets, sinks, and no-wax floors. However, you should rinse immediately after use on plastic or vinyl. Prolonged contact with metal, old porcelain or worn plastic laminate may cause discoloration. Clorox� Clean-Up� Cleaner with Bleach is also suitable to use on hard, nonporous kitchen countertops, including synthetic or cultured marble but we do not recommend use on natural marble. You can also use Clorox� Clean-Up� Cleaner with Bleach on other surfaces around your house including linoleum, Formica�* counters, stainless steel, sealed granite, Corian�* countertops, and chrome. Ok, I'm gonna continue using Clean-Up on my granite safely, but not on my marble. I think diluted Clorox (with water) may be safe on my marble. I'll keep reading. Thanks for all your input!...See MoreFlyleft - You have inspired me ! - See what I got !
Comments (18)flyleft and spank md, thanks for all the information about mosaic supplies and hints on what to do, you both have given me. I really appreciate it. flyleft, I am going to go to the bookstore today to see if either of those books you recommended is available, if not, I will order them on the internet. I think they both would be a good investment because I can see myself doing more mosaicing. And I still have the two bowls to do too. spanky md, you are right about the tile looking much better after it is grouted. Thank you for reminding me about that. I remember when we did our master bathroom, we had some stuff called redgard painted on the backerboard as added protection from water and when the tile was up without the grout - it looked ugly because you could see that red coming through. Once it was all grouted it looked beautiful. Heh, I might use some of that redgard stuff on the top of the wood - it supposedly seals out moisture. I think I still have a little bit left. I found this site, linked below, last night and in the mosaic questions section, they talk about the fiberglass mesh technique being used for walls and when you don't want to hand lay each piece again. They also talk about the contact paper method - which I would probably use in this application, because I laid the tile with the good side facing up. The back of the stones still have some of the fiberglass mesh on them from when I peeled the stones off of the backing. The guy on this site also says wood is ok for interior use. I do know one problem with cracking grout can be if it is mixed too thin or too much water is added. When we redid our two bathrooms and the slate floor the grout mix was very thick according to the directions on the bag and none of that has cracked. Of course, the bathroom is done on backerboard and the slate is on a concrete floor - so no movement there. The previous tile in the guest bath was laid on linoleum and one piece near the door had cracked grout - I don't think the linoleum was glued enough underneath that section - or it got water underneath it. I will probably seal this piece since moisture from a drink placed on the table could soak into the grout. For this project, I think I may just use the wood and see how that goes. I will still need to find the copper to put on the wood. I'll check out the hardware store in town to see if they have some copper sheeting. As usual I have entered into another project that is going to be more time consuming than I realized. But definitely something that will be fun and creative. I can see there is a lot involved with mosaicing and lots of different products that can be used for different applications. Thanks again to both of you, I will definitely post my completed piece, but it may take me a while since I want to do some more research and I have some other pressing projects that have come up unexpectedly. Here is a link that might be useful: See - Mosaic Questions - Category...See MoreVermont Danby Marble - can you really remove etching by yourself?
Comments (27)I have used it on my statuary. It dulls the etch. I have found the green scrubby, dry, does better for me. It still dulls a little, but the etch disappears. DISCLAIMER: This method was recommended for Vermont Danby, not for other types of marble. I decided to try it anyway since I had some large etches. I have honed statuary marble. The marble gets "dull" if you have a spot you work in all the time (I do, so I speak from experience). When I got the etches out with the green scrubby pad, it looks the same as the dull place where I work all the time. I have had my marble for 3 years. I would think in 10-15 years, the whole thing should be dull and worked on - PATINA! Like the other poster above, I also use my island marble for EVERYTHING. I prep on it, serve parties on it, serve my family on it, put the groceries on it when I bring them in the house. It is well used. (Ours is 3x11 by the way.) Not sure what you mean when asking about cost. You mean the cost for comet and green scrubby pads? Maybe $1.50?...See Moreantmaril
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