Our builder told us to wait at least a year before we did any hard surface and we are glad we waited. We still have our gravel driveway and gravel courtyard and will probablly do pavers in the courtyard next year. The issue we ran into was settling and drainage. When the house was finished, the excavator shot the grades to make sure everything was pitched right - and at first all the water ran off the way it was supposed to. However, over time the ground settled, we had some run off and erosion as we were getting our lawn established, and we discovered a number of areas that had to be re-graded. Also found a spot where we needed a culvert. We are tired of the gravel but now that everything has settled and water is running properly, we feel we are ready to put a hard surface down - at least in the front of the house.

First, you double posted this question. Please delete the other one. I do not know if there is a way to fix this problem. I do know that the contractor who did the work should not have scheduled a pour when rain was forecast. They also should have better figured how much concrete was needed so the second truck was there for the other half of the pour. Uneven surface and a bad texturing suggest a lack of experience. You did not get the fix you were promised. You may have to contact a lawyer to give your complaint some teeth. I'm sure you do not want to pay more money to get the job done right, but sometimes there is no choice. This answe should bump your question to the top of list again, so perhaps someone with more concrete experience can explain what can be done to fix this.

OP: good suggestions to google/houzz/pinterest your cab color and see what others have done to start to narrow down your likes. Truly, the only was you will find what you love is: take a door off and go to the stone yard and hold it up and see what you think. we can suggest all we want, but when you go to the stone yard and look at Taj, as an example, t might not work since the color variations are all not exactly the same. you have a 'warm' kitchen, you need a 'warm' counter. anything that reads mostly gray, more than likely, will be cool and will not work. as others have suggested: pick your counter first, then B/S. and only one should be the star. also, are you keeping the 4" b/s? if so, normally, you do not need a tile b/s. i do agree with you, i would not love that granite. you can re-use in a powder room, make table/end tables/ outdoor side table etc to reuse it.

I'm very sorry for the OP. This is the FIRST TIME, that I've seen, the manufacture's 'allowed' installation has been directly contradicted by a situational install over tile. That is to say, this is the first time I've seen/heard this happen. This is a MIGHTY day in the flooring world (sorry OP....I really wish this had not happened to you...I really do)! This is the day we, as upstanding floor pros can POINT TO and say, "See here! This is what CAN HAPPEN if you go DIRECTLY OVER TILE with vinyl! Do the right thing and remove the tile!" OP...again I'm so sorry this has happened. I can't tell you how much my heart breaks for you. Your installer did everything properly (assuming this is the only issue). Vinyl products state these floors can go directly over tiles so long as the tiles are well bonded to the substrate (yours were...so all good there). Sadly, the only option now = Remove the vinyl (be prepared to lose 25% of the planks due to edge breakage), remove the tile, lay $0.13/sf vapour barrier and install vinyl once more. I'm so sorry....but this is the only thing you have left. Sadly, you will have to pay for the vinyl removal, the tile removal, the vinyl installation and pay for more product because of loss to breakage.