How wide is the crown? If it is not more than 6" wide, a compuond miter saw(just tilt/turn) will be sufficient. I have a DeWalt 12" CMS(Compound Miter Saw) I have used for installing all kinds of trim for several years. If you need a slider, Makita/Bosch make the better ones---and if you get a slider, a 10" model should be enough. Frued makes a Fine Finish blade(80 tooth model) that I use for trim. It is a thinner than normal blade and does have a deflection issue if I cut too fast---but nice and slow allows beautiful cuts. However, I only use the miter saw for outside corner joints---and initial cuts for coping---I cope as many inside joints as possible. I have two cabinetmakers rasps(flat one side and half round on the other with a rasp cut and file cut each) and an old wooden handle coping saw my father had. Reason being that most corners in most houses are not a perfect 45 degree angle. That means to get a decent joint, you need to measure each time you need to make a joint, divide in half, putter around adjusting the CMS table and hope it works. With a little practice, you can cope a joint---and it will be much better looking---faster than you can miter cut one(with all the adjusting/etc.) Plus, a coped joint does not open/close due to seasonal changes nearly as bad as mitered joints. You will see jigs advertised that allow you to cut coped joints with a jigsaw---I have no idea of the accuracy of those. Toe kick vent holes are better cut with a sabre saw(Jigsaw)---you already have that. Nailers---whooBoy! In my experience, the correct size nail for crowm will split shoe molding, so one nailer for all your jobs is not gonna happen. Those Paslodes are nice tools---but expensive and dirty---meaning cleaning is required---ala pistol shooting. So, that means two nailers. About $700-$800+. You can buy a Porter Cable combo---with a 16 guage 2&1/2" nailer(will do crown nicely), an 18 gauge nailer(shoe), a 7/32" stapler(I use one for part of the door casing installation---same size as what is used to install casing on prehund assemblies)----plus a compressor(loud) , hose, fittings, and lube oil bottle. I have and have used all those nailers in commercial use for years---not a problem. For about $250 for the whole shebang. And, with the compressor/nailers, you have the ability to regulate pressure/depth of the nail set. The only drawback---in my experience, is the compressor noise---it is loud, due to the oilless design. I have a slightly larger oil type compressor in my shop that is much quieter, but much less portable. I bought a longer hose and keep the compressor in the next room---cuts way down on the noise. Sounds as if you will do a fine job, you have the right attitude and abilities. Let us know what you bought and how it is going.

Here is what I obtained from our village website. They only provided "tips". I have included my comments to some items. More detail would have been helpful: Tips on Home Remodeling Getting Started The Village of xxxx allows homeowners to act as contractor for their own home remodeling projects. It must be noted, however, that a permit is required for all projects in which an addition or alteration will be done at the property. (comments: I can understand additions, difficult to define "alteration" e.g. cabinets replacement, carpet replacement with hardwood flooring, or replacing existing vanity and tub, or replacing existing fluorescent light with regular light.. etcare these "alteration"? or alteration of the structure of the home?.. this is a grey area dont understand this.. this can be interpreted different ways unless there is a definite definition for this) Additionally, projects that require the alteration of the roofline of the existing structure must have drawings sealed by a (STATE) licensed architect or structural engineer. Lastly, check the covenants for your subdivision before proceeding with any work; individual subdivision covenants may have special requirements and restrictions. Obtaining a Permit Although many people consider obtaining a permit to be a burden, it does have a critical role in any construction project. Having a permit entitles each homeowner: · Provides inspectors to answer questions. · Offers some security from contractor fraud. (some security? What does this mean? With permit contractor fraud did happen. With "zero" security from the village) · Allows inspectors an opportunity to verify that the contractor is working in a professional manner.(does this mean that the inspectors verify the quality of work and also the behavior of the contractors? Define what does it mean by "verify that the contractor is working in a professional manner" again.. this can be interpreted differently by inspectors according to their likeness unless there is a definite definition) Tips on Hiring a Contractor · Insist on a written contract. Obtain a written contract and make sure you understand the terms. Include a time frame for the completion of the project, but do not rush. Include terms of a payment plan and agree as to who will handle additional unforeseen expenses. · Make secure payments. It is not unusual for a contractor to require some money up front before construction starts. Make certain, however, that payments do not get ahead of work that has been completed. Never pay the full cost of the job up front. If a contractor insists on full payment up front, look for a different person. · Conduct interviews with potential contractors. Remember the contractor is working for you. Be certain that you are comfortable working with this person. Additionally, talk with friends and neighbors: people who have had experiences with contractors (good or bad) are always willing to share their knowledge. · Check with the Better Business Bureau. Checking with the Better Business Bureau will give you an opportunity to assess a potential contractors work history. · Verify the handling of inspections. Come to an agreement as to who will handle the permit and inspection process. If the contractor is scheduling the inspections, ask for copies of the results and keep them with the permit. · Make sure the contractor has insurance. Without insurance you may be liable if a worker is hurt in your home. The Village of XX does have an ordinance requiring all contractors working within the village to be licensed and bonded. · Ask for at least 3 references. Make sure that the sources had work done that was similar to your proposed project. · Get at least 3 bids. Check material pricing with that of your local building supply store to see if the price quoted is fair. · Establish a reasonable timeframe. If the contractor states the project will take 8 weeks, do not insist on 6 weeks; doing so might affect the quality of work. Revised

Y'all little whippersnappers - be thankful you're not 72 w/all the aches/pains/tired/and the above-mentioned ailments. Remember how beautiful the mosaic is of Nureyeve's tomb??? - My DDs know to drape my tomb w/wire mesh, cement-based mortar w/ a pistol grip scorer, running pliers, all my shop tools, lots of broken shards, some GEII silicon, er, uh - no masks, eye protection or gloves, but a beer, a piece of pizza and an inscription that reads - "that ole girl died happy"!

That's good info to know about the benefits of cost plus, as I wasn't really aware of why you would do one versus the other. We have been disciplined if bids came in high (e.g. we changed our AC because that bid did come in high and we modified our trim materials to stay on budget), but all of the other bids have been pretty spot on or in some cases even less than was budgeted for (e.g. electrical, plumbing, roofing, siding materials, tile, floor refinishing, cabinets, gutters were what we expected and had budgeted for). Countertops were $2000 over budget, but that's really the only sub-contracted thing that was more than expected (and that's a fairly minor amount given how far over we are). It's really his labor cost that off. For example, we exceeded the budget for siding because it took him months to finish it, in part because he only had two guys working on it many days, which meant one would often be on the side of the house, and for each cut the other guy would have to crawl through a window, make the cut, crawl back though, and this inefficiency just added a lot of time and cost. We talked to him about this, but at the time he assured us we were on budget. There were also similar issues with framing. It was only months after all this that he told us that we're way over budget. Given that we've started doing so much work ourselves, I'm just not sure what else we could have done to prevent this other than going with fixed cost. I have a hard time believing that he didn't know that we were over budget until 6+ months into the project, and I wish that he would have let us know earlier, but I'm not sure there would have been a good option even if he had let us know. It is was it is now, so hopefully we'll be able to figure something out with him.