For the finish nailer, Paslode's cordless models are probably where you want to be. The energy for these is supplied by compressed gas fuel cell packs you buy separately. The other compressorless alternative is an electric nailer -- several companies offer them, but I've never seen one that was well-reviewed except for tiny brad and stapler models.

Cutting vent openings in the toe kick sounds like a job for jigsaw, not a router.

You might want to visit your local library and the publisher's online sites but take a look at magazines like WOOD, Fine Woodworking, Fine Home Building, and Tools of the Trade for regular reviews of tools.

I'd suggest that going with a compressor give you more options moving forward. They can also be used to inflate a flat tire at 6 a.m. when you need to get to work. If you want cordless go with Paslode. As for sizes, you've got 18, 16, and 15 gauges. Use the smallest nail that will get the job done so you have to putty a smaller hole.

If money is no object, Festool makes some very nice tools. Their SCMS is something like $1300. Makita makes some very nice sliders as does DeWalt and Bosch. Unless you anticipate cutting large crown moulding, a 10" will be sufficient. Forrest makes the best blades and Freud's industrial series are very nice too. Expect to pay $85-130.

If you're only going to have one router I'd looked for a mid-power (2 hp or so) plunge. Festool makes a nice one. Bosch, Milwaukee, and DeWalt are a bit more reasonably priced.

The best nailer, hands-down in the Paslode. Lightweight, easy to use, quick to change out battery, fuel cell, nails. Get the angled version.

I researched (here) routers back in March and ended up buying a Bosch. You can search the old posts for the advice string I got. Can't vouch personally yet, as we haven't reached the point in our remodel where we need it.

I bought an inexpensive $100 compound miter saw about 5 years ago. The brand is Pro-Tech. It's been a great workhorse and I've had no troubles whatsoever with it. It's a 10", so we did have to go buy a 13" when we were cutting large (>5") crown molding, but I don't like the big one as well. Buy a finish blade for smooth cuts. And I highly recommend a saw stand, which comes in handy when you're cutting 16-foot-long baseboards and need some support.

If you're only doing a small amount of tile, I'd rent a tile saw.

Have fun shopping! Mr. Weedy and I often find ourselves spending our Saturday nights out wandering the aisles of Lowe's...

How wide is the crown? If it is not more than 6" wide, a compuond miter saw(just tilt/turn) will be sufficient. I have a DeWalt 12" CMS(Compound Miter Saw) I have used for installing all kinds of trim for several years. If you need a slider, Makita/Bosch make the better ones---and if you get a slider, a 10" model should be enough. Frued makes a Fine Finish blade(80 tooth model) that I use for trim. It is a thinner than normal blade and does have a deflection issue if I cut too fast---but nice and slow allows beautiful cuts.

However, I only use the miter saw for outside corner joints---and initial cuts for coping---I cope as many inside joints as possible. I have two cabinetmakers rasps(flat one side and half round on the other with a rasp cut and file cut each) and an old wooden handle coping saw my father had. Reason being that most corners in most houses are not a perfect 45 degree angle. That means to get a decent joint, you need to measure each time you need to make a joint, divide in half, putter around adjusting the CMS table and hope it works. With a little practice, you can cope a joint---and it will be much better looking---faster than you can miter cut one(with all the adjusting/etc.)

Plus, a coped joint does not open/close due to seasonal changes nearly as bad as mitered joints. You will see jigs advertised that allow you to cut coped joints with a jigsaw---I have no idea of the accuracy of those.

Toe kick vent holes are better cut with a sabre saw(Jigsaw)---you already have that.

Nailers---whooBoy! In my experience, the correct size nail for crowm will split shoe molding, so one nailer for all your jobs is not gonna happen. Those Paslodes are nice tools---but expensive and dirty---meaning cleaning is required---ala pistol shooting. So, that means two nailers. About $700-$800+.

You can buy a Porter Cable combo---with a 16 guage 2&1/2" nailer(will do crown nicely), an 18 gauge nailer(shoe), a 7/32" stapler(I use one for part of the door casing installation---same size as what is used to install casing on prehund assemblies)----plus a compressor(loud) , hose, fittings, and lube oil bottle. I have and have used all those nailers in commercial use for years---not a problem. For about $250 for the whole shebang. And, with the compressor/nailers, you have the ability to regulate pressure/depth of the nail set.

The only drawback---in my experience, is the compressor noise---it is loud, due to the oilless design. I have a slightly larger oil type compressor in my shop that is much quieter, but much less portable. I bought a longer hose and keep the compressor in the next room---cuts way down on the noise.

Sounds as if you will do a fine job, you have the right attitude and abilities. Let us know what you bought and how it is going.

One consideration for the nailers is weight. The cordless nailers are heavier than the air fired ones. That isn't much of a consideration with most men who have a lot more upper body strength than women, but for women, it can be a big factor in how comfortable/tired you are at the end of the project day. You need to go to a few stores and pick them up and handle them in person. A few ounces doesn't feel like much until you've repeatedly lifted it 50 times.

Go buy a LOT of scrap crown molding at a box store to practice on before you start with the cabinet company's stained to match molding. Crown molding isn't easy, even for good finish carpenters. You may find that using a jig is a lot easier than "doing math". The math always hurts my head! So, waste some money on cheap crap and get familar with your tools and techniques on a "throwaway" project maybe.

I'm definately going to play with scrap live wire :) I don't want to start on the good stuff! It was too freaking expensive. But I do want to use the same wood, just to be sure I am getting the feel of how it will go.

I appreciate all of the help, and will check for more, thanks ya'll! I also posted in the kitchen forum, and spent the night looking at tools and reading a trim work book I have. Coping saw is a must! We not only have seasonal movement, but we have earthquakes. Coping is highly recommended so I'll learn it.

Weight is a big issue (which makes those festools look good to me). I broke my arm on the site several months ago and have only 30% stregnth in it to date. It will be more than a year before I get close to normal and I want the house done before then.

Now on that toe kick jig issue....so how do you cut a perfect straight line??? Maybe practice??? I guess I may cut a few cabinets apart to see how it goes....

Oh, one more problem. Fired contractor installed the pocket doors (permanently...instead of using the trick I'd asked for where the jam can be unscrewed) without cutting out the door knob pieces. New contractor (if he ever shows again) says they need to come out to be done...I've got thousands into the wall finishes, and the trim would all come out as well, it's a big deal...is it possible to not remove them??? A jig and a drill????

Look at the Fein Multimaster or one of the many clones for the those impossible "In-Place" cuts.......the blade vibrates (22,000xMin.)

Alaska right?....do you have Lowes or Sporting/Paintball

There is a system that uses CO2 to power a nailer.....The CO2 cartridges provide plenty of air for trim applications......small lightweight trim gun(s).......several sizes..........

Now on that toe kick jig issue....so how do you cut a perfect straight line??? Maybe practice??? I guess I may cut a few cabinets apart to see how it goes....

Isn't there a cover than goes over the vent holes? If so your cuts don't have to be perfect.

Otherwise with a little practice you can cut a pretty straight line with a jig saw by hand or you could use a straightedge. The other alternative is to remove the bulk of the material with the jig saw and clean up the cut with a router using a straightedge or some kind of template.

Remember, you may know the cut isn't perfect but your guests won't, unless they're the type that crawl around your kitchen floor looking for mistakes. ;-)

If you are going to install you molding around bullnose or rounded drywall corners, you should consider getting some base & crown plugs to fill in the gap between the two products. This will enable you to miter your molding at a 45 degree and still install them around a bullnose or round corner. You can buy them at www.sjtsupply.com.

Here is a link that might be useful: SJT Supply, LLC

igloo!

It's a slippery slope just buying a "few tools." ; )

My old Dewalt 12" chop saw was a great saw. It saw me through 10+ years or work. When it died a couple of months ago I went out with the intention of getting a Maikita or Bosch. Tried them both out, as well as the others on display. I ended up walking to the door with Milwaukee 12" slider.

It was an uncomfortable purchase for me, as it wasn't even on my list. Nor was it even included in a recent Fine Homebuilding saw evaluation. So what happened? The next issue Fine Homebuilding came out with an update regarding the new Milwaukee saw. Had it been in the evaluation it would have been at the top of the list. I love the saw.

If you go with a non-slider, go for a 12" saw. With a slider 10" should have the capacity to do whatever you need. I was planing on getting a 10" but ended up with a 12". Oh well.

Try out the controls too. My right wrist is a bit iffy, using one saw with a "vertically" oriented handle was actually painful. The other thing I liked about the MKE was no safety. Just a trigger. Thank goodness.

Someone has been having trouble with their fences. I think Bosch. Check each side square to the blade, and then raise the blade and put a straight edge across the face of the left and right fences. There should be no gap, you want tight all the way.

If you think you might use the saw as a rocking horse for young kids, then the safety might be useful.

Nailguns, if you're committed to airless, then try out the Paslodes as others have recommended. Pick it up, swing it around, for getting just one gun the 16-gauge will be a fine all-around gun for all finish work. And also for one hun I recommend the angled finish nailer over the straight. You can get the nose of the angled nailer in some places more easily than that of a straight gun.

Routers, I can recommend the Bosch line like the others have written. I have three Bosch routers and four Porter Cable routers. 1-3/4 to 2 hp. variable speed, and a plunge kit and you'll be able to pretty much tackle any task.

Bits, I buy Amana and Whiteside. Others are good too. Tough to recommend specific profiles without knowing what you're doing.

when you get your tools make sure you stick a roll of duck tape in the tool box. best dang tool ever made

LOL