Well, I finally did it...overseeded the 10-month-old TTPR/KBG lawn with TTTF and KBG...and it worked! So it can be done...but read on to find out how I did it...I was quite careful due to what people on here had told me about the PR messing with the germination of other seed due to allelopathy. I did this a little over a month ago now. I actually prefer the lawn consisting of a mixture of these three species, guess I'm odd since no one else here seems to like that three-way mix). We're at ~4.5 weeks now. The existing PR thankfully did not prevent or delay germination of the new seed. The TTTF started to come up within 6 days, and was fully up in about 3 weeks time. The KBG just started coming up last week. Perhaps it wored so well because the PR was only 10 months old. Or b/c it got heat stressed. Or b/c I mowed it to ~1.8 inches before hand on the last mowing before starting the project. I also thinned the lawn fairly drastically prior to over seeding, by utilizing heavy core aeration (three passes) and also verticutting (two passes). I brought up a lot of dead and living grass in the process. I'm currently touching up the few spots that need it with a little extra seed. Here are some photos of the project (same area plus or minus a foot or two) at the various stages for reference (I do consider it a successful outcome even if it was my first time doing it and I learned a lot!): The top photo is the before photo, taken on 8/17/12. The middle photo is about ten days after overseeding, on 8/29/12. You can see the existing PR and KBG, and the TTTF was in the midst of germination, but is hard to see in the pic. And the bottom photo is from 9/21/12, taken right after the first mowing and application of starter fertilizer (I decided to hold off on the fertilizer until after germination so as to slow the growth of the existing grass to prevent it from overtaking the new grass. I'm glad I did this). Here is what I used for overseeding: -TTTF (approx 75% Firecracker LS and 25% Bullseye) -KBG (approx 33% each of America, Bewitched, and Rugby II) -A low amount of the existing TTPR seed blend (see below) was mixed with the fescue and KBG seed; I only used this in those areas that were really bare after the verticutting/raking. In this way, I created a uniform lawn in the bare spots that blended with the old grass. (The existing lawn prior to overseeding was a blend of KBG and three cultivars of TTPR sourced from from Allied Seed: ASP6005, ASP6002, and ASP 6001.)

"Only thick, dyed-through leather hides will stand up to the test of time." So true. Many places have leather which is actually very thin since they shave it off in layers. That's why so many couches look stretched out. We purchased our leather one from JC Penneys. On sale. It a cordovan (brownish burgandy) color. At the same time, we got Flexsteel and Broyhill couches which were not cheap. The Flexsteel frame got wobbly and the fabric shredded. The Broyhill is looking worse for wear and has a slipcover. The leather is holding up great with only occasional wiping. We have 4 normal kids and 2 messy adults. The shape of the cushions is still looking good. I will never buy anything else again. The better the quality the leather the better it will hold up. Don't fall for a salesman's speech. Read up and decide what will work for you. I have a friend with microfiber and she's "OK" with it. Not overly impressed. Gloria

You need to give us the size, spacing and span of the attic floor joists, where and how they are connected to the exterior walls and/or rafters, and the size, spacing and span of the rafters. A sketch or diagram would be helpful. I suspect you will need to reinforce the joists and possibly the rafters.

@Jen Jobart To be clear, let me say again that my own set-up is a manual, external mixing valve rather than a set-up using the small, in-line electric water heater alternative you asked about. Also my heaterless, 14 y.o. FL washer is not a Speed Queen. That said, the "electric water heater" alternative is actually an after market "plug-n-play" thing rather than something you that you frame or build-in during house construction. What you do during construction is to make sure you have enough 120v circuits and outlets in your LR to be able handle the 1400 watt (or so) load of the heater while running your washing machine. The person I know who has one of these set-ups is running both his FL washer and in-line heater on a single 20 Amp 120v circuit much as you might do with a washer with an on-board heater such as a Miele. For new construction like yours, I might prefer to add another, dedicated circuit and outlet for in-line water heater. The inline external heaters may draw more current than a standard on-board water heater will. The one I've seen first hand was one that used a little Bosch in-line heater like this one: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Bosch-Tronic-Mini-Tank-2-7-Gallon-Lowboy-6-year-Limited-1440-watt-1-Element-Point-of-Use-Electric-Water-Heater/5000622219.  You just hang on it the finished wall above or next to the washer where you can reach it easily and plug it into a regular 120v outlet. Connect the input side to your cold water tap with an off the shelf washing machine hose. The shorter, the better, (Might have to add a hose-thread fitting to the heater's in and out pipes; some heaters come with them, some do not,) Run another hose from the "out"port on the heater to your washer's cold water "in" connection. What I understand you do with a washer like the Speed Queen FL models (which do not have electronic auto temperature control) is (a) choose a cold wash temp on the washing machine so all (or most of) the water flows in through the cold side when it fill for a wash); (b) set your in-line water heater to the warm or hot temperature you want to use (something between 95°F and whatever the unit's top end is which may be 145°F although some models apparently will go higher); (c) give it 15 minutes to heat up; (d) start the wash cycle; and (d) turn it off when the wash fill is done unless you have some reason to want hot rinses. Turn it off when you are done with the washing day or washing session. After all It's an inline, point of use water heater with a small tank and it serves only your washing machine. On the days when you aren't washing, there is no need to use power or keep water heated. Some folks think it sufficient to just skip this extra set-up and equipment if your Speed Queen will be close to the water heater. YMMV, of course, because different people have different laundry and laundering preferences. For an idea of how that might work with a SQ Front-Loader, check out Jeff Caban's experiments in this thread, if you have not already seen it: https://www.houzz.com/discussions/5193747/my-last-three-weeks-with-a-fl-speed-queen-afne9bsp113tw01#n=0