My hood install looked alot like the one pictured above. Couple of pointers: read the installation directions OVER and OVER. Be prepared for lots of "dry fitting" before the final mount. Some unexpected "things" that came up during my install. 1)If your putting in a stainless backsplash that runs from the range up to the hood...put it in before you mount the hood..you can hide the upper and lower ends of the stainless behiond the appliances that way. .BUT be careful when putting up the hood, cause stainless scratches REALLY easily when your pushing sheet metal around. I purchased a brushed stainless steel panel, cut to size from a local sheet metal (HVAC) fabricator..cheaper than buying from Viking..be sure they cut it with a machine cutter, and not by hand..cutting by hand leaves a "wavy" ripple in the stainless panel. Only the machine can cut it flat, without distorting the stainless. We remodeled, and had custom cherry cabinets built. The carpenter put them in square and plumb...but the wall behind the cabinets WASN"T plumb! So I had to get some cherry colored silicone caulk to fill in the gap behind the cabinets. Then, when i mounted the hood, plumb with the cabinets, there was a 1/4 inch gap between the backsplah and the hood..oh well..it's not really noticable. when i created the appropriate cutouts in the cabinetry above the hood, where the right angle duct work ended up, it was a very cramped area to work in. I found a cheapo mini-sawzall (Handisaw by Black and Decker http://www.blackanddecker.com/ProductGuide/Product-Details.aspx?ProductID=15523) that was critical in cutting out the cabinet, drywall, and plywood sheeting behind the wall. It was small enough to fit inside the cabinet, and allow me to get the cutting done. I also used a chisel and a drywall saw to get the job done, but the Handisaw made life much easier. i placed a 90 degree angled vent pipe directly to the top of the hood, and ran it straight out through an exterior wall. I was lucky because I did not have any wall studs in the way..if you run into a stud..i'm not sure how best to proceed. I cut out a circular hole through the drywall, the exterior plywood sheet, and ran into the exterior brick. I drilled a hole through the mortar to the outside. stuck a piece of paper over the brick marked the location of the finder hole (which was off center, and marked out the circumference of the duct on the paper. I made a mark on the paper to indicate which end was up. This allowed me to outline on the brick outside, where i would have to make a hole. I had never cut brick, so i hand a neighbor do it for me..he basically used a small circular diamond blade (3-4" i think) on a small handheld saw, and cut out the brick. it wasn't very pretty, but it was all covered up by the exterior vent hood. Duct tape to connect all the pieces together. i finally used some expanding urethane foam to "caulk" around the duct to seal off the exterior from the house. Be sure and buy the foam that has "low expansion" and use it SPARINGLY. The foam expands LIKE CRAZY and can actually distort or collapse the vent pipe!! Put i WAY LESS than you think, and give it 24 hours to stop expanding, then add more foam with a second application, if you must. when you cut the brick, tape off the inside of the tunnel you've created to the vent hood, because brick grit will rain into your new appliances, and you will have a hard time getting all the grit out of your hood/vent/range... good luck and god speed!

you could try it with the "condenser" if you make provisions for the condensate dripping down inside, by having the botttom of the outside vertical run a few inches lower than the entrance to the house, so that the condensate can accumilate there, and with some small holes (but big enough so as not to get clogged by lint 1/2" ?) so that the condensate can drain. If that doesn't work, you can always then drill the second Vent hole.

Just want to chime in here for anybody else contemplating this in their remodel. We bought a Florida 1971 split-plan house on slab concrete and gutted the middle part, moving the kitchen about 10' over and added an island prep sink & gas range, and all the associated electrical needed for a 16.5' island (it's really a galley style kitchen but one side is an island). We were also pleasantly surprised how inexpensive it was to have the entire raised dining room removed and repoured along with all the trenches, especially thinking how many weeks it would have taken to DIY and haul away all the debris. (Just don't forget to have the dirt sprayed for termites before the pour! And keep the receipt. Don't ask how I know this.) When they jacked out the old plumbing, the drainpipe had completely rusted through under the slab, near the spot where the old sink was. If you could only smell the rancid grease that emanated from that section of pipe, you would never, ever, not even think about pouring grease/oil/fat/drippings/etc down a sink again - no matter how much hot water you waste after it. (If you ever watch "Dirty Jobs", you've possibly seen the one where he cleans out a rancid grease vat and was puking his guts out.) A relatively small amount of hardened grease allowed some water to pool behind it and rust out the pipe. Who knows how long the sink water had been actually draining out under the slab? Just keep in mind that this could happen to you!

If you go the flex bit route (they work well but with some of the problems mentioned above) make sure you purchase the bending tools for holding the shaft bent at 90 degrees and have a slow speed drill. I use a half inch drill not for the power, but for the lower RPM. It makes the flex shafts easier to handle. Make sure you have control on the shaft whenever the drill is running. They WILL whip around and hurt you and cause damage. I have used them for straight drilling with more 5 foot extension on them. You can get from an attic all the way to a basement ceiling in a 2 story house interior wall. You just keep adding extensions as you drill.