Creating symmetry
Gizmo
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
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4Heidesign
2 years agoKswl
2 years agoRelated Discussions
Flooring and cabinet symmetry mess
Comments (24)cate1337, first I want to say it's so nice to see your name here! Many months ago (I think it was last summer, actually), not long after I joined GW, you v. kindly answered a question of mine (which some others labeled as "stupid"), and I've always appreciated you and your kindness. You have a special spot with me! About your floor -- first, let me agree with everyone who thinks you are amazing the way you are handling this. Me, let those curse words fly! I love cork -- it's a beautiful, comfy surface, and I totally get why you'd want it in your kitchen. What color were you thinking of having the cork (since you can get in so many shades)? Would it be similar to your existing floors? If yes, and I'm just picturing this in my mind's eye, I honestly don't think it would be a visual problem having the island straddle two different materials. If they're different heights then clearly that's a different matter altogether, but I'm going to keep my fingers crossed. If you're going to add new oak floors, then I think you should have them laced into the existing. They can do that without having to refinish everything -- they'll just sand a small area of the old floors and do that along with the new (so it'll all blend in). We, too, have oak floors throughout the first floor of our house and next week, maybe?, oak will be put in our barren kitchen. (previously it had vinyl) For me, wood works in our kitchen. BUT, I have children the exact same ages as yours, and we just had the main level floors put in February 2007 (so we moved into this house in March with these floors brand-new). Holy cow you are not kidding about the scratches! One pass of a firetruck with a piece of grit stuck to a wheel and it is curtains. My mother was particularly ugly about why we didn't get a glossy finish on the floors (I begged the flooring guy for as matte as possible, foreseeing this v. thing), but boy am I grateful I didn't (get any sort of sheen). As it is, all the floors are going to be refinished (the flooring guy and I had a "miscommunication" on the color I wanted [I was in another state so didn't oversee the process]) when the whole remodel is done, and you can bet I'll be doing the most matte finish again! I'm okay with the scratches but I'm infinitely more laid-back than my mother ... different story. (I swear lots more than she does as well!) My point being, I think you are smart to think about the littles' impact on the floor. I'm really looking forward to seeing your space progress! GOOD LUCK with the flooring, cate....See MoreNaked, legged, or maybe corbelled??
Comments (27)wow Breeze - you've certainly got your hands full! I really feel for you. Being your own contractor can be tough when you dont even have the team of (known quality) subs to just call when you need them. When i watch my GC at work, i am in awe of the balls she juggles (ha! pun!) and the timeliness she can make things happen. Keep up the amazing work - you are so close! And yes, i still think the naked corner (looks best probably?) but beckons heads, cause you just cant see where in space it is when you are at that height. the leg would give it some presence. Well, now come to think of it, our old island had 2 naked corners (12" overhangs) with no bumped heads ever..huh... i always kept those silly spongey babyproof corner protectors on them though. i dunno - something to think on i guess...See MoreIkea Cabinet Design Extra Eyes Needed and Appreciated
Comments (11)It depends... Cabinets with doors cannot be installed flush with something deeper than the cabinet box + door, they need filler to allow the doors to open fully against the wall...unless...your cabinets are built with an extended stile on the ends that act as filler. Regarding the refrigerator...as mentioned above, if it's installed against a wall deep than the refrigerator box, you will need filler b/w the refrigerator and wall. The amount needed will depend on the how much deeper the wall is than the depth of the refrigerator box. With the exception of true built-in refrigerators, the doors of refrigerators must stick out past all surrounding items to allow the doors to open fully. You don't want the handles hitting the wall either. In most cases, you will need somewhere between 6" and 12" of filler or cabinetry b/w the wall and refrigerator. When I work on Kitchens with a refrigerator against a wall, I like to put in a pullout utility or pantry cabinet b/w the wall and refrigerator. That way, you don't waste space. Another thing to think about...if a Kitchen has a "dead end" wall on one end, don't put the refrigerator against that wall. The refrigerator should be located so someone can get to it without having to cross the Prep, Cooking, and Cleanup Zones (especially the Prep & Cooking Zones). I.e., it should be on the outside of the Kitchen, not the inside. Without a 2D/flat/overhead view of the layout, it's difficult to tell much. An overhead view lets us see how the various components relate to each other, aisle widths, etc. You can't get that from elevation pictures like the ones you posted. Do you have an overhead view with labeled dimensions? If so, could you please post it?...See MoreMeasure from the back or front of storage for symmetry?
Comments (1)Measure from the back only if you plan to keep the doors open. In my world, symmetry is second to function. In addition, no one spends much time on an entryway so it isn’t a big issue....See MoreAllison0704
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoRachel Lee
2 years agoTina Marie
2 years agoLars
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoJilly
2 years agoYayagal
2 years agoilikefriday
2 years ago
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