"With the air tight IC recessed light cans you should still build air sealed enclosures around them because they leak a lot apparently. LEDs are a great choice for these locations especially without enclosures as they have a weaker "mini chimney" effect." in all my projects new and existing I've found many ways to seal IC cans. retrofit with inserts. then seal housing to sheetrock ceiling...from inside the house before putting trim kits in place. even 'air tight' trims don't stop the oversized cuts in sheetrock from leaking. I use a mastic tape made by Hardcast #1402 for all my holes in ceiling. more on this later. this seal described above is the best with no measurable air leakage. building boxes..maintaining the 4" air space on all sides & top of can light..also works, cheaper cost..harder install. problem is the 'legs' of the can lights that are attached to ceiling joists & properly sealing around them. this is where the air leakage occurs. I never use foam..because it shrinks over time, you have little control over where it goes & unless it is fire rated..shouldn't be next to heat producing areas. and yeah..I'm overly cautious about this. this method can be well done..and still leaky. foam installs I've seen online in videos put fg batts around recessed lights and foam them. I don't like this at all, and it is never done on my jobs. best of all is to use ICAT only, and use the hardcast tape to seal the cut between housing & sheetrock. Hardcast brand mastic tape #1402 is a 3" wide strong mastic tape. I perfer it over any other brand on the market. cut it into 1 1/2" wide strips and use it in full width depending on size of opening to be sealed. sticks to just about any clean dry surface...to the point of pulling paper off sheetrock if you try to remove it. so use it carefully. opeings at bath fans, supply boxes, stove vents, recessed lights..I use hardcast. use it once..and you'll understand why. not the cheapest on the market @ $22- $35 per 100' roll. but absolutely great stuff. while it is hard to describe the sealing of supply boxes with hardcast from inside the house..a picture shows it well. I'll attach one to this post. flgargoyle .. foil bubble foil is an overpriced product that performs no better than the cheaper radiant barriers. in my house with a tin roof..I have a single sided foil scrim fraft paper like what is used for ductwrap. I used button cap nails to attach it to the undersides of my rafters. with gable end vents..and 3 hurricanes later I've had to do a little repair on it..but it was worth the few bucks it cost me & the 2 mornings it took to install. good benefit in summer little to none in winter. my attic has fg batts on attic floor, one layer in joist bays the other unfaced layer laid across joists. no ducts, no equipment no recessed lights and a damn near perfect air barrier from living to attic space. ducts are in fur downs inside living space, vs air handler in side living space also. a bit over sized @ 2 tons with an whole house april air dehumidifier..also in conditined space. 4" media filter at return. 15SEER unit the addition I re-roofed last summer, batts in rafter bays 1" R-7 foil foam sheating lathes & gavalnized tin. as rafter/ceiling joists are 2x4 (yeah...go figure) the batts are R-13 with the R-7 gives me R-21 for this large bedroom. prior to this install the room was used for storage as it was too hot in summer & too cold in winter and too expensive & uncomfortable to use. with radiant barriers there always has to be a mininum of a 3/4" air space. thus the lathes on top of foil foam board under tin in addition & opposite install in big attic with rb under rafters with foil facing into attic space. gotta run...but wanted to share my take on things. oh here is the pic of the supply sealed from inside the house with hardcast tape. best of luck

I also am very happy to find websites like this. Never had a problem until 64 and doctor thought I needed some estrogen for "dryness" issues. I was on Estriol compounded as it is not sold in U.S. but is in other countries. 2 1/2 months had to stop using as it made me ill. I realized later it was ordered too strong . My Gyn was also an Ob and specialized in adolescent pregnancy. What was I thinking !! Started very disturbing symptoms about 2 months after the end of Estriol. Profuse sweating, followed by chills, rapid increase in heart rate (over 130), dizziness and nausea in the middle of the night, night after night. I was so exhausted I ended up passing out and in the hospital. First Cardiologist, then Endocrinologist and finally going next week to GYN specialist. Of course went through the "you must be having anxiety" talk. Did I mention I am a retired Major in the Army Nurse Corps and psychiatric trained Reg. Nurse. I only mention this as I was almost starting to believe them. Thank GOD, and I mean this, I started to do my own research. Hot Flashes and Night Sweats with severe vasomotor reaction, very common. Well I say with all my heart thank you ladies for sharing on sites like these. It has been 81/2 months and they are definitely less. I am using magnesium, Vit. E, watching sugar intake, doing deep breathing , trying to control stress and thinking about Remifemin. Good luck to everyone .

Nilajones, I went to bed last night thinking about your dilemma. If I understand the main problem is that you must sleep in the room after the dust gets stirred up and then resettles? Perhaps on your bed and pillows? How about sleeping in another room for a night or two? Is that a possibility? In a perfect world you could have a separate "sleeping chamber" that had nothing but your bed. You could keep it like one of those "clean rooms" that electronics manufacturers have. I'm guessing that is not an option. A couple of things: Do you have forced air heating? If so, I think I'd find the best filters for it and change them often. If you have a 2-stage furnace keep your fan running continuously. Our furnace man says this improves the air quality year round. Seems to be working for us. Also, while shopping for a vacuum cleaner I saw some that were sealed. I would look into that. They don't throw the dust around. And lastly, would using a hand steamer to actually kill the dust mites help?

Put a thick wool blanket underneath your cotton mattress pad, with percale sheet on top. The wool allows heat (and moisture) to dissipate out from underneath you. It has to a be a thick one, though, for best effect. It does not make you warmer, in the least bit. I use old double-faced blankets, or Hudson's Bay-type ones underneath every mattress pad, on every bed in my household. There were a type of old fashioned percale sheets made before A/C was ubiquitous, intended for use in the summer. Cannon Featherlite was one brand name but there was also a similar line made by Wamsutta. (I am not at home now, or I would look up the name for you.) These are very long staple cotton, with a TC of about 200/220 and very light weight and smooth. I use them in the summer from time to time. They are still available on eBay (NOS) once in a while. Another very cooling sheet material is actually mid-to heavy weight old linen sheets. (That's what I am sleeping under at present during this heat wave in NY, in a farmhouse w/o air conditioning.) New linen sheets are usually a finer weave, so not as comfortable in hot weather to me, plus they cost a fortune. Some people used to use relatively new muslin sheets (TC140-180) for the same purpose as the old linen ones. Cool to be next too, and just enough body and weight so that all you need is the sheet, nothing more. OTOH old muslin that's very well worn isn't as comfortable in hot weather because it becomes very drape-y and can feel almost too soft and clingy. That's because it is made with relatively shorter staple fibers. Muslin sheets also can still be found on eBay, though usually never in sizes for beds larger than a full. Though they are easily seamed to create larger ones. I think the most important thing to choose, however, is a pure, unfinished fabric. Most sheets are covered with synthetic resins to enhance their no-ironing-needed properties. if the sheets are billed as "easy-care", despite being all cotton, they have been treated. Pure finish sheets are usually advertised as such, and often a bit more expensive. (Unless you buy old stock ones on eBay.) Untreated sheets need ironing if dried in a dryer, or hanging outside on a line to dry in order to be flat and smooth after washing. I rarely iron sheets for myself (only for guests), but all of my sheets are line dried. I do iron pillowcases, though. Also, I sleep on fresh sheets every night in hot weather. It may be just be psychological trick, but it always seems cooler to get into fresh sheets, and usually if you start out feeling cool, you'll sleep better and longer no matter what the temp. HTH L.