New tree advice- Peach, plum, Paw-Paw and Kiwi
Rusty
4 years ago
last modified: 4 years ago
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jason long (Z8a/7b)
4 years agoRelated Discussions
New fruit trees and berry bushes
Comments (8)Your Peach trees are probably going to need to be sprayed to help keep Peach Leaf Curl at bay.Either Copper or something with Chlorothalonil in it,I used the Bonide brand on a Nectarine and just a little PLC is showing. Peat moss will help acidify the planting mix for Blueberries and the Pawpaws. A simple framework or trellis can be made for the brambles,maybe something circular and fixed in the potting mix for the canes to be wrapped onto. Here is also a video about keeping the Mulberry at a manageable size. Brady Here is a link that might be useful: Pruning Trees into Bushes...See Moreafter 6 yrs, disappointed with trees. need advice
Comments (19)I think apples and most fruit trees are tolerant of a wide range of pH. Getting it close to 7 for apples is more about trying to get calcium in the fruit to prevent storage disorders then to encourage cropping. I don't even believe it really is very helpful in this regard- commercial growers wind up spraying the fruit with calcium to get levels up in the fruit anyway. If you google around you'll find university recommendations for pH are rather variable for apples which I find interesting. Research has not been definitive and has been limited on ideal pH. I manage an orchard that is very productive with a pH in the low 5's (sometimes owners won't allow me to spread lime) but others that seem badly affected by this low of a pH and seem to improve with aggressive liming. However, a pH between 5.8 and somewhere in the low 7's shouldn't get in the way of productivity. Shooting for 6.8 is fine- As I recall, Cornell recommends 7 for apples. I completely agree that eliminating weeds during establishment is very important- sometimes not enough though. In home orchard sites there are often established large trees with massive root systems that compete the hell out of new trees- especially peaches. In my experience, the most important single issue is having a soil with excellent drainage. That is something that must be dealt with before the trees go into the ground. Like everything else, you do your research and the best you can and then solve the unexpected problems one at a time....See MoreExperience with Paw Paw
Comments (45)I did everything I could think of to help them out. First of all the long first season as described above, following advice I got in the container growing forum (planted in 5-1-1 mix, fertigated weekly with Dyna-gro Foliage Pro) They had leaves well after top growth stopped, so I think they were growing their roots. I prepared the ground where they were to be planted the season before, while they were in pots. To do that, I killed the grass with Roundup in August. A week later I planted a mixed cover crop (Soil builder mix form Peaceful Valley Farm Supply plus alfalfa) and mulched those seeds with maybe an inch of compost. The cover crop was over 3 feet tall by October when the frosts came. I added several inches of leaves that fall (no tilling ever, just put everything on top). I planted the trees that spring as soon as their buds started swelling. I shaded them that first season in the ground with two layers of window screen, and fertilized every couple weeks with Miracle Grow at half strength. They grew well that year, but it was the next season that they really took off, with some of them putting on 4 feet of height that summer (2012). More raked leaves on top of the soil in the fall. The next year I continued feeding with Miracle grow, and they did not put on quite as much height, but had great growth of their lateral branches. I've always kept a diverse herbaceous layer underneath them and in the whole planting plot. This is a great way to add organic matter throughout the soil (through root turnover). I also throw all the prunings/twigs from my yard there. My goal was to mimic the soil of the pawpaw's natural environment, the forest understory, as closely as possible (lots of roots, lots of organic matter, a nice layer of organic litter on top, fungally dominated). The difference in the soil compared to the surrounding lawn, in both color and texture/structure is amazing (started with orange clay). Lots of mushrooms show up in the patch as well. Alex...See MorePeaches, plums , apples in Kalaheo, Kauai ?
Comments (24)Glad to find others in Hawaii to share info with. I live in MT. View on the Big Island. On average it takes three years for a fruit tree to start producing after planting. I've had Florida Prince peaches for 5 years now.They started producing about 2 and a half years ago.Peaches and nectarines need heavy pruning each year to produce strong fruit wood each year. I prune out all dead and crossing branches first creating a vase shape. They produce flowers on last years summer growth, prune these down to three strongest buds. To get larger peaches you have to thin the fruit to every 2 to 3 inches. They are also hungry trees. Fertilize in January and again after fruit set with a higher phosphorous fertilizer. This is the third year I've had my Anna Apple and it is so loaded with fruit I've had to do alot of thinning. It seems to set fruit and flower at the same time. It started in January, I've harvested some apples and it is flowering still. I think it's great that the fruit will be ready for a prolonged time! I have a Hood Pear that does okay but really needs to cross pollinate to set more fruit, So I'm putting in a pinneapple pear this year so I can have more fruit. Here's a trick to get more pollination of your fruiting flowers- grow flowers around the tree- marigolds,asters and borage bring in the bees.More bees more fruit set. Also even when a tree says it's self fruitful it will benefit by having another tree nearby. Selffruitfuls can have better fruit set with the same exact tree variety planted nearby. Pears and plums benefit from another verity that will flower at the same time nearby. I also have Katy apricot, Methley and inca plum,and Einshemer apple, but they have only been in a year. You really can't know for sure if it will do well where you have them until that magic 3 comes and goes. also chill hours also work at 55-65 degrees , but you have to double the chill hours for that tree (eg. einshemer apples chill hours on the tag say 100 or less , that means it will need at least 200 hours at 55-65 degrees here) Hope this helps!...See Morewayne
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gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)