Will it interrupt flow to bring corner upper cabinet down to counter?
Jen Jen
4 years ago
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Jen Jen
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Distance between countertop and upper cabinets?
Comments (40)I'm 5'2" and I'm actually going with cabinets 24" off the counter, (which will be 35.5" high) with a 10" deep floating shelf below it at 15" . My reasoning, besides the fact that I really really like that look, is that a lot of the daily use stuff that would go on the bottom shelf will go on the open shelf, and the the bottom shelf of the raised up cabinet is still several inches lower than the current 2nd shelf. So I will actually be able to reach more than in the existing cabinets which are about 17". Plus Sektion cabinets are 15" deep, and at 18", I think they kind of loom over the counter. It's a narrow galley kitchen, so pushing the cabinets up will open things up visually. And yes, even as a short person I absolutely care if the appliances fit under the cabinets. The 15" shelf height was specifically chosen so that the kitchenaid can fit under it. It won't live on the counter, but when it is out I want to be able to slide it back out of the way temporarily. The only thing that won't fit is the blender with the jar on, but that's the one thing I don't care about....See MoreLooking for suggestions for flooring & counter top for 1919 home
Comments (24)We have a 1916 home; just a few remarks re our own experience: 1) Are you sure the entire floor is concrete? We have a concrete slab just where the stove was. It is visible from the (unfinished) basement. (The rest is wood subfloor.) 2) When we moved in, the kitchen floor was green linoleum and the small countertop was the same, held in place with metal edging. Don't know how long that it been there, but long. (I think it was real linoleum, but not sure. But it wasn't pretty!) 3) We very much respect our house's character and try to maintain it. But we don't live in a museum. When we expanded/remodeled we matched the mouldings, windows, etc, but felt no compulsion to match every kitchen detail. We put down a "standard" oak floor similar to that in the rest of the house, and used a medium-light, marble-like, greenish granite (with white cabs). It seems completely in sync with the house, even though it is not period. Unless you plan on getting 1919 appliances, you're not going to have a 1919 kitchen no matter what you do. Don't feel compelled to do anything you don't really like, just to be "authentic." P.S. Don't get too hung up on the home's specific style. Fact is, most houses from that period -- like ours -- are a mishmosh of styles, and simply reflect what was currently popular. (As remains the case with most new homes today, though I would say to less pleasing effect!)...See MoreTwo cabinet heights/what to do with windows below counter height
Comments (4)Thanks so much, I really appreciate the feedback. The butcher block island/table we have there now has really great functionality for me. I have the microwave (which I kind of hate having) and my breville toaster oven on the lower shelf and I also store my kitchenaid down there. The top that lines up with the countertops is amazing for giving me lots of working space. It's just awkward with the windows being below and aesthetically it doesn't really jibe with the rest of the kitchen now... Dumb questions - with the windows - is it possible to just raise the sill up/just get a smaller bottom pane to the window? Removing the entire window and moving them up will not be possible right now (we just finished renovating the rest of the kitchen - moving water and gas, opening wall, new flooring counters, etc.!) The real pain is that they only need to come up about 2-3 inches if I were to make the counter be the sill. I like the idea of doing something like a 30 or 33 and having a butcher block. The only issue with that is that I was planning on having butcher block for the countertop since we just did the countertops throughout the kitchen with White Macauba... I guess I could possibly do different woods if I were to have a butcher block counter and a thick block on top... I am still open to any and all suggestions! Thanks!...See Moreuppers that sit on the counter
Comments (11)I love them too, for the same reason. I think it depends on whether you're more driven by function or appearance. (Maybe you should ignore my advice, I'm very driven by aesthetics.) But you certainly won't be happy if the design is unworkable! It seems you might feel OK with the lack of space on one side, especially if you have an island near the sink where you can work. Stand where the sink will be and mimic the kind of work you're likely to do there, to make sure. As for aesthetics, I made a scale model on graph paper, including all the features of the cabinet run in question, like the window over the sink, the apron front sink, even the cabinet details. Then I made scale cutouts of different kinds of uppers to see which looked best. It really gives you a good idea of what the finished appearance will be. The proportions have to be right to succeed. You might be able to play with the upper cabinet height and width to give the sink area a little breathing room, if necessary. I've looked at tons of pictures and you see all kinds of things in kitchens, especially in old houses. Unless you're looking to create a formal or traditional room, it's surprising how things blend into the whole. Good luck!...See MoreJen Jen
4 years agoJen Jen
4 years agoJen Jen
4 years ago
mama goose_gw zn6OH
4 years agoYou might consider moving the prep sink over, so you can prep to the left, closer to the range, and also because that will leave a clear space on the island to drop groceries to be loaded to the fridge:
Jen Jen thanked mama goose_gw zn6OHsuezbell
2 years ago
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