I think it is called a 36" hood because it fits inside a 36" cabinet, or should at any rate. And yes, the 36 built-in would be better in my opinion. The thing I have with that 'liner' is that it is flat rather than 'trapezoidal' or more funnel-like. If it were shaped more like a funnel, then the smoke/hot gasses would be 'funneled' into the smaller insert. Being flat like that, the rising 'effluent' would just roll off the front into your face and the sides under the adjacent cabinetry.

This has come up before in a somewhat similar situation (see link below). First question is what you want above the hood. If I read you correctly, you have upper cabinets on either side of the range, but no cabinet actually above the range. This is where I presume you will build your custom stucco enclosure. The reason this is important is because it determines how you will "back vent." What I think you mean is that you need to vent horizontally. The term back venting is often used to describe a vent that vents straight back, so that there is no ductwork at all above the hood itself. This is generally true for true undercabinet hoods that mount to the underside of a cabinet immediately above the range. If however you have nothing above, then you can use any hood liner that can vent up and then horizontally out. Essentially any custom hood liner can do this, using either a blower mounted in the hood, or if you want a quieter vent, then using a remote blower located on the external wall where your ductwork will exit your house. There are many sources for such liners. Monogram is not typically thought of as a "top performer" for ventilation. With the uncertainty over GE Appliances now, I'd be even less inclined to use them. Do search this forum: there is lots of great information on hood vent companies. Some of the companies that get positive feedback here include Vent A Hood, Prestige, Independent, Modern Aire, Wolf and Broan. Other misc thoughts: Do you have exactly 36'' to work with in width? If so, then you will need a hood liner that is even narrower than 36'' to fit inside your custom enclosure, which would be limited to 36''. In that case your vent size is even smaller, and even 36'' is marginal for ventilation performance, as the usual recommendation is at least 3'' wider on each side than your range. You might compensate at least partially by choosing a hood that is deeper than usual, as long as it doesn't bump anyone's head. And, if you truly have to use a hood vent that back vents without any ducting above the hood, look at the VAH SLH-6. Here is a link that might be useful: hood vent thread

houses14, my Imperial range hood is not an insert, rather an under cabinet ss hood. However, the materials used, and the quality of construction, the fan motors, are the same with minor variances to allow for space restrictions within the smaller size of my hood. Construction wise, it is all that I had hoped for, was easy to install, and has functioned beautifully. Packaging and shipping were excellent. The ss is marine grade. This means that the amount of chromium in the ss will prevent rust from forming in the interior of the hood over time. The electrician informed me that their fan motors and switches appeared to be top quality. The warranty for my hood is 7 years, which is almost unheard of in the industry. Their specifications and installation instructions are right on to allow for optimal operation. For example, my duct is 8" from hood to roof jack and had to have a certain rise in height from the hood before the first angle in the duct work. Baffles remove and reinstall easily for cleaning. It was a joy to call Imperial direct with technical questions at their manufacturing headquarters in California. Someone was always immediately available to answer my questions regarding their vent hoods or recommended installation. My installer was promptly referred to their engineer for technical assistance as I requested that the wiring that would automatically turn on my hood once a certain temperature below the hood was reached be disconnected as I did not want that feature. To me, having that level of service available when answers are needed means a great deal. I found that the folks at headquarters were always honest even if it wasn't the answer I wanted and that they knew their stuff. Their light and fan switches are continuously variable which is rare on vent hoods. This means that they both function like a rheostat with a continuous increase, or decrease, rather than clicking up or down discreet notches, such as level 1 to 4. Also, I liked having the option of installing the switches wherever I wanted remotely, rather than being mounted to the underside of the hood. The hood easily handles removal of odors, steam or grease beneath it's surface. I've found that if the hood is allowed to run for about 10 minutes prior to cooking that it can be operated at a lower level and do a good job. The hood on low is fairly quiet but is noisier than I had anticipated at higher levels with having dual fans and baffles. Also, highest cfm level is 1000 which is a factor. However, I used a different size led bulb than Imperial recommended. I now have a gap around the bulb that needs to be filled with a rubber gasket. Also, the temporary roof jack is too large, and the correct one is waiting to be installed so the jury is still out on the noise issue. Noise level was quite an issue for me, but even if it remains unchanged, I would still buy the same hood given how pleased I am with the overall operation and that I can easily live with the noise that I now have. I'll have to look up the name of the online vendor I used and will add that information tonight.

I am the resident expert only because real HVAC systems engineers don't frequent this forum, as far as I know. Noise introduced into the kitchen will be significantly reduced if an external blower with silencer can be fitted. A lot of the high frequency blade tip turbulence caused noise will be removed. This is also true of an in-line (duct mounted) blower. The issue of the neighbor is difficult to assess. What is the configuration of his or her windows relative to your potential external blower (1500 CFM I assume you meant). Your own window sound transmission is also an unknown. Generally, the external noise could be abated by (a) using a silencer on each side of a duct mounted in-line blower, or (b), using a deliberately under-driven* "up-blast" commercial blower (mounted as a side blast). (I think opaone is using an under-driven blower for his new system.) It is also possible to use a chase to move the blower up to roof level. I have a 1500 CFM nominal Wolf (Broan) blower on my roof. Its sound level is detectable but not obtrusive from the ground, but it might be if in a wall location where the sound is "trapped" between two houses. Possibly a more expensive but similar in design Abbaka downslope unit would be marginally quieter. ------ * commercial blowers of this type can use a pulley system between motor and fan that allows for different ratios. By choosing a ratio that operates the fan blades below their rated speed when the motor is receiving maximum voltage, significant turbulence noise can be avoided. The physical cost is a larger unit than would otherwise be required for the desired flow rate. Residential blower fans are directly coupled to their motors.