peony23, I would still go with the Inax, though I would get the mid-ranged model, called the "R". I have the "L". They both have a wall mounted remote which I like, though others have said the seat mounted type on the "C" is working fine for them without issue. The "C" is the lowest priced model of the 3. The middle priced model "R" still has a blow dryer like the highest priced "L", but not the higher wattage fan that the model "L" has. But I hardly use the fan. The "R" looks like it has a lower profile in the tank area too. What I wish though, is that I could switch the one in this guest bathroom (referred to above) to my progressing remodel, and get the "C" Inax for the guest bath, as it has the lowest profile at the back and would go much better with my traditional toilet. But my new remodel has an elongated toilet seat and my guest bath is a rounded front. I will link the website to Inax. The price listed on the web site is not what you will have to pay. I think I paid around $800 for the "L" online. Terry Love forum sells them but I don't know if he has the "R", I only saw the "L" and the "C" on his site. The reason I would stay with the Inax is that I have had very good use with mine over the last year. They've been producing the advanced toilet seat for years and were the pioneers of the system. They have a good reputation. Another reason is that there are two wands that do the washing, one for the front area and a second, at a different angle, for the posterior area. These were strategically angled to provide the best cleaning of these differing areas. I went with the Inax initially because of recommendations by Herring_Maven who has very detailed comments and thoughtful post here, and on other forums at GW. I really appreciate the post H_M provides. Here is a link that might be useful: Inax advanced toilet seat This post was edited by enduring on Thu, Mar 13, 14 at 10:55

Look into your building envelope. Some houses are leaky but they look good inside and out. If you have air leaks, seal them. Outside too. The coldest side (or corner) of a room is what determines the psychological feeling of cold. Warmth radiating at ankle height is psychologically good. A cold floor accompanied by warm air being blown out from a convector fan is not as good, because you have both cold and warmth in the same room at the same time. Ceramic or porcelain has different heat transfer properties compared to the wood and plaster everywhere else. The largest buildings use floor heating because people need warm feet to feel that the space is OK. More heat applied at ankle height turns the floor into a heat source for your feet instead of a heat sink. Long term slow warmth is better than sudden strong heat. For example, a heated aquarium put into the coldest corner of a room will change everything : people suddenly say the room is warm. An aquarium is permanently working, holding a constant temperature, radiating a small amount of warmth, a little bit all the time, permanently, constantly, continuously. It evens out the room's lopsided heat loss and makes the room's heat field into a flat playing field not a sloped vector field. You get the idea. Any warm object is better than none. And, prior sealing heat losses is even better, as a start. If you have cold air currents seeping in through the baseboards you have a house problem, not a bathroom problem. Don't let anyone tell you that one idea or another "is not really going to..." as all heat is good (and there is no "bad" as long as the heat stays inside the house and doesn't heat the outdoors) and secondly when it's permanently ON and producing heat the psychological effect is considerable. I have left old computers turned on (permanently) in wall benches, and enjoyed their slow heat which evens out the whole room's heat sensation. I have used the kind of electric kettle that constantly turns itself back on when the water temperature drops below 200F (it's a warm body in a cold corner). Anything goes. In a long time from now (like after you diagnose better the heat losses in your building envelope and seal them), you will have a better idea of how to heat that one space that bothers you today. Your asking about heating the bathroom alone tells me you need to take the time to diagnose your new house as a whole. Your asking about electricity and cost tells me you may have not caught that heat is heat is heat, that there is fundamentally the same cost to transform energy into heat no matter what, and that you have to seal leaks (and add insulation) otherwise you just heat the invisible air currents that flow through a leaky house. hope this helps.

Lovely! I like the classic white tile and porcelain and how you used furniture pieces in the bathroom. I love that the storage at the end of the tub has pull-outs that can be reached from the toilet. Your custom sink and backsplash and counter are unique and beautiful. Yours may be the first bathroom sink I have seen in which a small or medium dog could be washed! That is a good thing! I showed your pictures to my DH because I am thinking of classic tiled walls with a chair rail for when we redo our bath in a couple of years. He liked it! I was expecting him to say, "too old fashioned." He did not, he said it looked nice. From him, nice is a compliment. He even liked your rows of listello. I was just at the Tile Shop's site the other day looking at the Hampton tiles because someone was selling some on Craigslist. I am hoping to do as you did and get what I can cheaper there, and fill in the rest from the store. I can see that you worked very hard to secure all of your materials - and then cut the floor tiles to size and culled the Hampton tiles, too! You succeeded very well in getting the look you wanted while saving money along the way. Congratulations, and thank you for the pictures and great detail and supply list.

Thanks for the response kirkhall! Here is another piece of info that's important: ***Bedroom #3 is actually big enough to be a master bedroom by my neighbourhood standards, and has back deck access. I feel weird giving this bedroom to one of my 2 kids, not only because it has the deck access, but also because it is so much larger than the other child's bedroom. (Currently, both kids are in the tiny bedroom, but this needs to change soon.) Another option would be to give one child the big master bedroom (19x11) and keep Bedroom #3 for myself, but then the issue is that one child gets a HUGE bedroom (bigger than their parents') and the other gets a tiny one. So in short: I would really like a new bedroom layout with roughly equal sized kids' bedrooms AND a bigger bathroom, if possible. I think this would be good for resale too.**** Here are my comments on your ideas: - I really like the idea of stealing room from bed #3 to make the existing bathroom bigger. I'll need to play around with that. It would be less costly, I would imagine. Bed #3 would then become a bit smaller, and would be more in line with the other child's bedroom. The back deck access is still an issue, but maybe it's ok. You can't have everything. - In the existing layout, I really like your idea of stealing space from bed#1 and giving it to bed#2 and then putting a powder room in there, maybe in between them, but HOW? - yes, ceiling downstairs is unfinished, and I have ready access to underside of main floor. Comments on my plan: - bed #2 in the new design DOES meet the code for my province. The code is 6 square metres (64 square feet) if a closet is provided, or 7 square metres (75 sf) where no closet is provided. At 77.64 (with closet), and 86.32 sf (no closet), it seems to pass. - privacy: Where the current bathroom is situated, you can peer into it from the living room. So, even though it's far away from the living space, it is still visible.