Seriously searching for any Toothache tree seeds/seedlings
Xtal in Central TX, zone 8b
4 years ago
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4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoXtal in Central TX, zone 8b
4 years agoRelated Discussions
some tree seeds and seedlings
Comments (5)Hi Dee, No I still haven't discovered what they are... On the "other" site nobody knows either... Still waiting for the first true leaves to see if that gives some clue... Those strange looking cotyledons (at least they seem unusual to me) are burning my head... I can't even imagine the family. And no chance I could get a pic of the adult tree. I collected the seeds on the local botanical garden below a huge podocarpus, but seeds where from the droppings below a fruit eater bird nest (rather disgusting but could'n resist the collecting job already done!) so It could be any fruit bearing tree on the garden, and thou I know most of them, this one keeps eluding me... I can't ask the stuff of the garden either because of poor their knowledge and care they have about everything... Up to now I have been calling them "pelargonium tree" ha ha. Regards....See MoreSearch: Hybrid larch seedlings
Comments (23)Tom: I am not familiar with red pine in your area. Here in northern VA red pine is not an option. In Garrett county MD they are planted for pulpwood, but have problems with beetles and annosus root rot disease after 30 years or so, and no one is keeping any to grow for timber. In my pine plantings, a few of my red pine are beginning to die. I have been very careful to treat all the stumps of any I cut to keep annosus out, so I am not sure what the cause of the mortality is. I haven't confirmed anything. I keep the trees thinned out so they are vigorous, and should resist beetle attacks. I see evidence of beetles, but I am not sure if they are primary or secondary contributors to death. So, in the area of my timberland I would not recommend planting red pine. But your area may be different. You already have native white pine, and I love those. If I were starting over at my timberland with plantings, I would do larch Norway spruce, and white pine as the main species. Does your forester have any recommendations about the red pine? Has he talked about any risks? In my pine plantings, the Norway spruce, the white pine, and the red pine do well together. The Norway spruce started a bit slower than the red and white pines, but they got going fast enough so that they grow up with them well. With the red pine, I was afraid they would be outstripped by the white pine and Norway spruce, but that has not been a problem. The Norway spruce and the white pine are growing faster, and will eventually be much taller, but after about 40 years, they are still compatable. Of course, you can plant them in seperate blocks, or mix them. I would do some of both kinds of plantings. One consideration with the red pine--the trees don't assert dominance in a stand very readily, which means they need artificial thinning to maintain a healthy stand. Norway spruce will sort themselves out very, very readily, with the stronger trees overtopping, and eventually supressing the less vigorous trees, so they don't NEED thinning. I thin mine to enhance growth a bit, and make the stand prettier, but after 200 years, unthinned NS stands will be just as fine as stands that were thinned. The same is true of white pine, but in my experience, the best trees don't assert dominance quite as readily. As for larch, I just don't know. My guess is that they will be like white pine or NS in this regard, but I don't know that for a fact. So, my bias here is to plant much more white pine than red pine, but I am sure that red pine, which I assume is native there, is for you a much better bet than for me here. Some say red pine is native to the area of my timberland, but I really don't agree. There IS an outlier of native red pine in one spot in WV, but for me that doesn't qualify it as native to Garrett County MD or other places where a naturally growing one has never been seen. As for your not focusing on planting tamarack, I agree. The native species are not always best. We have native red spruce in Garrett county, but they are far inferior to Norway spruce--no contest. But if you have a very wet area, go with tamarack. They are short lived compared to other larches, but occasionally some have lived well over 200 years. As for NS seed source--boy, this is tough. I wish I could see your seedlings from Itasca. If some of them are growing very, very fast--that's something! You may not be able to do better. But, are some growing very, very much faster than others? Are there a fair number of "runts." If so, that could indicate that some of the seed is coming from trees not cross polinated. Two possible solutions: you can either plant them at tighter spacings to give you more trees, and thus more really fast growing ones. Or you can try to mix in seedlings from another seed source. The Musser may be a good choice, but, what performs well for me here might not do so well there. Also, You should check and see if Musser has made any changes in the seed they use in the last 6 years or so. If so, I know nothing about what they might be offering now. One thing surprized me a bit with my NS here. The finest strain I have seen in the higher elevations in the Appalachians was a stand planted near Glady, WV. I dug up some seedlings and planted them at my timberland. I since dug three of those up again and planted them here in the hot and dry northern Shenandoah Valley. I am stunned by their performance here--all three rank as the best of those I have planted here, with the understanding that most of the 400 or so I have planted here are too small to really evaluate yet. But that that strain does so well in the cool wet mountain environment, AND down here, has surprised me. Unfortunately the stand near Glady was cut three years ago--a real shame! I am not sure what you should make of all I am telling you here, but NS is a remarkable species in its variation and adapability. Well, keep me posed on your plans and progress. Oh, I am becomming more and more an admirer of Thuja! --spruce...See MoreSeedling search: Hybrid larch
Comments (29)Thanks Spruce. I've been known to hold plants so as to try and match up with a rain. I've also taken the step of having the forester order up an inch of rain per week and moderate temperatures for next year! This whole thing represents a departure for me-from my first plantings there in which I would hand-dig holes, mulch with woodchips and yes, even do some initial watering as best I could. I also used to trim around my trees and spray glyphosate rings. The trend has been away from all of that finally arriving at this machine-plant operation I've got lined up. Forester is not the guy I originally worked with, that guy retired, and this one was much less willing to reimburse me for my cadillac methods. Initially, I was peeved. I'd expected, and documented work hours to the tune of something like $1500 that year of transition. His offering was something like $150! But once we met up there and got talking, I decided his ideas had merit. Among them, the machine, which he says will do a really good job and a tighter stocking rate than I'd been doing, to allow for losses. Obviously, mulching will too be out of the question. When I began, that planting area was alfalfa. He said that a corn crop in the prior year would in effect give one year of free weed control, so when my farmer guy wanted to do corn, I said sure. He's into Roundup Ready which I do realize there is considerable legitimate question about, but I do think in the case of this planting, it too should be helpful. And while that area is at the very north limit of meaningful agriculture in this state, it is interesting to note that the corn up there did great, my field included, unlike the major growing areas further south. He's also big on an over the top herbicide spraying in year two, which I will also look into. There's guys that contract work like that out. I don't recall the chemical off the top of my head but I've got it here somewhere. All in all, this is a much bigger scale planting method. But for what I'm trying to accomplish, it sounds good. +oM...See MoreIn search of paw paw seeds or seedlings
Comments (7)I have a few dried paw paw fruits from last year that were taken from a lesser known variety I think was called Herbert on my colleges campus. I just bought a few seedlings last year and don't need them and would be glad to give them to you. They are still in the dried fruit and I have no idea of their germination rate but if you want them they're yours. I can't find how to look at anyone's trade lists, if you could PM me the link, but I am looking for any of the chicory, endive, radicchio type veggie seeds as well as kalettes, and sunchoke. I would love to get some of those but if not i'll send for postage....See Morebuttoni_8b
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoXtal in Central TX, zone 8b
4 years agoXtal in Central TX, zone 8b
4 years agoXtal in Central TX, zone 8b
4 years agoloreleicomal
4 years agowantonamara Z8 CenTex
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoblakrab Centex
4 years agoXtal in Central TX, zone 8b
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoXtal in Central TX, zone 8b
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoXtal in Central TX, zone 8b
4 years agowantonamara Z8 CenTex
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agowantonamara Z8 CenTex
4 years agoXtal in Central TX, zone 8b
4 years agoblakrab Centex
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agowantonamara Z8 CenTex
4 years agoXtal in Central TX, zone 8b
4 years agoCristy W
4 years agoOmniviridis - 10b San Diego
4 years agoXtal in Central TX, zone 8b
4 years agoXtal in Central TX, zone 8b
4 years ago
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