How to Over-seed with a Nutsedge Problem
gle2011
4 years ago
With help and continued research I think I have finally ID the weed grass as a Nutsedge.
When you have a large infestation like I have how do you go about re-seeding the area?
From what I have read from University of Purdue Extension Service
Late spring/early summer (when it is young and actively growing) is the ideal time to control yellow nutsedge. During its early growth stages, yellow nutsedge has not started producing tubers and is most susceptible to control with herbicides. As the summer progresses, nutsedge plants form seedheads and tubers.
Thanks in advance
https://www.houzz.com/discussions/5757950/question-about-over-seeding#n=20
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gle2011
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Killing Crabgrass & Yellow Nutsedge in newly-seeded bermuda lawn
Comments (9)Baby Bermuda in Atlanta? Baby Bermuda is an exclusive product of Easton Sod farms located in OK. It is also a hybrid and there is no seed. How did you get it? Anyway crabgrass is easy to control with post-emergence products. But as stated you have to wait until the lawn is mature and has been mowed a few times. Otherwise you risk injuring the grass. FWIW you could paint it on, but if you are going to that much trouble, why not just pull it out to begin with and cast that demon back to he!! Nut Sedge is another issue and very difficult to control. Most of the post - emergence controls just makes it mad and the nut underneath the ground sends up three replacements for every one you spray. There are a couple of product out there like Manage and Sedge Hammer that are effective but very expensive....See Morepurple nutsedge question
Comments (5)Nutsedge, being a sedge, has a triangular stem. You can pull one up and twirl the stem in your fingers to feel (and see) the edges. Here in NJ yellow nutsedge is common. Not sure if the two share the same characteristics, but here the sedge grows much faster than the bluegrass/fescue/rye grasses and it forms individual stems, hard to imagine it as a continuous bed of green. Also, nutsedge is an annual up here, so you might need to reseed it every year....can you even get nutsedge seeds??...See MoreNutsedge Warrior!
Comments (19)I just read that the nuts can live for a couple years. I thought I had mine under control. Then we got a good hearty rain. I'm going to file a grievance for these shenanigans! Sadly, it's just as plentiful as when I first got the place. Thanks dormant nuts!!! So no, water cessation is not a valid battle plan. and I ran out of spray, as well as money thanks to a $600 municipal utility deposit. Yes government has my best interest at heart, but I digress. Pulling and spraying are my future! I listened to a local nursery owner about how to kill bermuda. You have to give it life (water it) before you can kill it. I think I'll follow suit. Get it to spring forth, dig, then spray what pathetic shoots remain. Some farmers reduce the nightmare by deeply tilling and fertilizing to replace the nitrogen. The idea is to kill the rhizomes by bringing them up and drying them out. They've had good results, like a 90% reduction. Something to think about when getting ready for sod. This post was edited by eline65 on Wed, Aug 21, 13 at 2:33...See Morenutsedge control
Comments (37)I had a lawn-wide infestation of nut sedge after replanting the lawn. You cannot kill nut sedge in one year, it is an ongoing project. I have used Sedge Hammer and it has been quite effective. I have two small spots of sedge (about 10 plants in total) left in the lawn. You have to apply Sedge Hammer repeatedly (I do it about every two weeks) until the sedge leaves turn brown, and the plant dies. The problem with nut sedge is that even if you kill the leaves, the herbicide only trans-locates back about 2-3 nuts in the root chain. The roots can have up to seven nuts on any root. That is the problem - there will be nuts left to germinate the next year. That's why it will come back the next year, there will still be nuts in the root mass that are still active. So, what you are doing the next year, is killing the left over nuts, and 2-3 nuts back from them. Ultimately, you will kill all of the nuts and the plant will disappear. The problem with trying to dig the plant out is that the roots are very fine and fragile. No matter how careful you are, you will end up leaving some of the nuts in the ground, and as soon as the main plant has been taken out, the remaining nuts will start to germinate. Roundup (glyphosate) will do nothing to the plant. You need to use a sedge-specific herbicide like Sedge Hammer with spreader sticker in the mix. I have found that a small amount of Quicksilver herbicide added to the Sedge Hammer seems to increase the effectiveness. I apply the Sedge Hammer / Quicksilver / spreader sticker mixture after the plants have at least three to five leaves and the temperature is above 80 degrees. It usually takes two treatments over two weeks to kill the plant for this year. I then monitor the area the next year and repeat the treatment. Eventually, you can kill all of the sedge because there will be no more nuts left in the ground to germinate. In my case, it has taken about six years to get all of the nut sedge out a 3000+ square foot lawn. But, since you only need to treat the plant 2-3 times over four week period, it is really not very work intensive. Once you treat the plant for the year - you're done until the next year. It's a war of attrition and you just have to work at it until it's all gone. It can be done, I've done it in my lawn....See Moregle2011
4 years agoHU-558222437
4 years agogle2011
4 years ago
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