nutsedge control
josephkranyecz
18 years ago
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johnCT
18 years agolast modified: 9 years agolsimms
18 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
Rainfall after herbicide treatment
Comments (2)I don't see it specifically mentioned on the label (I may be missing it), so I'll give you the same data as for both Sedgehammer and for herbicides where no time is mentioned or you don't have the label. Three hours between application and rainfall/irrigation is good, four hours is optimal. Of course, there are tons of exceptions where rain can fall a lot sooner than that and things will be just fine--but that's a safe number for every single herbicide on the market currently....See MoreLast year's successes not happy this year.
Comments (2)Unless you want to grow baby strawberry plants - nip off the runners. And, perhaps give a side dressing of fertiliser. You might get a crop (or a minor snack) later in the season. Some varieties do fruit twice. The chocolate mint - 'you'll be soorreee!' If it has thug tendencies then it's time to confine it to a bucket with the bottom taken out. Or a six inch deep hoop of plastic to stop it wandering everywhere. If you think nutgrass is bad - mint can add a nasty taste all of its own. Parsley usually lives for 2-3 years then naturally goes to seed. You haven't done anything wrong there. If you don't mind it seeding then you can expect plenty of seedlings for free later on. Probably spring. If the place where you planted the peppers and tomatillos had been previously composted for the roses then last year's crops probably capitalised on the remains. This year you could make up the deficit with liquid feeding every two weeks to hurry them along. Make sure the Nitrogen level is not too high or you'll have leaves instead of flowers. Tomato food could be best, along with a seaweed or fish brew. Use something with more Nitrogen for the basil as leaf production is exactly what you want. For next year - when these crops are out of the ground, or largely finished, then add plenty of compost this autumn to prepare the ground for next year. Apparently tomatoes don't mind being planted in the same place year on year. However, it's prudent to move them around to prevent a build up of bugs and diseases over time. And think back on the weather you've had. Sometimes lots of rain, cloudy skies, a late chilly spell, will very definitely delay warm weather crops such as those you're growing. If your area is prone to fickle weather then you might want to invest in some form of cloches (plastic row protection) to ensure your crops aren't checked by inclement weather....See Morenutsedge controut
Comments (3)Kimmsr, if you read the many posts about nutsedge in the forum, you will (maybe) come to understand that these plants are an aggressive weed in all kinds of soil conditions. To repeatedly tell people to fix their moisture problems, year in and year out, is getting a bit strange. Alf, I'm afraid that you will have to bite the bullet when it comes to nutsedge control. Image and Sedgehammer are both pretty good about controlling both the purple and the yellow nutsedge. I honestly don't know of any 'cheap fix'. So the cost effectiveness actually boils down to effectiveness, period. It would be a waste of your time and money to use something that might be a lot less expensive, but won't do the trick. Right? Shop around in your area to find a good supplier of agricultural and landscape management chemicals....See MoreYellow Nutsedge Control
Comments (6)Forget glyphosate for nutsedge, it only kills the top & has no lasting effects--The plant will produce new leaves from the existing root within a week. Get a sedge specific herbicide that can move through the shared root system & persists in the plant. Image, sedge ender, ortho nutsedge, sedgehammer, dismiss, or another sulfur based herbicide labeled for sedge control. Sedge ender is my favorite, results in about 24 hours...See MoreDTCreations
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18 years agolast modified: 9 years agoDTCreations
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