Hi Robin. my best advice is to be sure you have 48" between the island and the other 2 countertops. And, the answer to all you questions above is yes it is absolutely OK. Also if you need cabinets on both sides of the island then the island width of 60" is fine. However if the cabinets are just on the sink side of the island, an island can be 42" to 48" wide which is more than sufficient. Or even a minimum of 36" wide if you have a tight place to deal with. Best of luck on your project. Jerome DeMarco ART.chitecture

Thanks Jerome - I thought 36-42" was the suggested distance from cabinets to island. We have 42". Is 48" the suggested distance? And we don't have any other cabinets - the kitchen is open to the den.

According to NKBA guidelines, 42" is the minimum for a one-person work aisle, and 48" is the minimum for a two-person work aisle. It's often pointed out that the distance should be measured counter-to counter, or counter-to-handle, in the case of an appliance.

NKBA guideline--#6 specifically (but read them all for great information on planning a kitchen).

The french doors will be 60" wide. Will be? Does that mean you can move them over a few inches? If possible, I'd like to see a few inches between the cabinets and door trim. But--if the only alternative is to reduce the width of the cabinet between the range and doors, then I'd keep the wider cabinet.

You didn't ask about DW placement, but I'd suggest moving it to the left of the sink (as you face it), to keep it out of the prep zone to the right. You can store dishes across the aisle in drawers in the island. Will you have a microwave?

Thanks Mama - we are replacing windows with the french door. So we can't move them over as it would entail significant additional costs.

HI Robin. If you move your island 6" away from the sink and 6" away from your range would give you a space of 6' between the end of the island and the french doors. And also give you 4' between the fridge and island. The 60" island depth is fine if you have 24" cabinets and both sides of the island. However if you only have 24"cabinets on the sink side of the island and 12" cabinets or no cabinets on the family room side of the island, your island countertop can be reduced down to as little as a 36" depth or even up to 42".

Best of luck. Jerome DeMarco ART.chitecture

Don’t block traffic aisles. It’s not proportionate to it’s surroundings. Be sure that you understand the difficulty of finding a counter for a large island. It’s not just the supply of materials of that somixevis more limited, but the traffic path that such a huge counter and the 4 large guys carrying it has to fit through your home.

Reduce the island width width to something that doesn’t waste so much space and incur all of those extra costs.

Such great feedback - thank you all!! We've reduced the size of the island based on your suggestions - here is the updated drawing. We do want some seating as we only have one dining area so the island will be 48" (24" cabinet in front, 12" cabinet in back for storage and a 12" overhang). It does still go a little toward the french doors but only about 10" - is that ok? With this design the island will be 66" away from the french doors.

How much space do you have between the short cabinet run and the French doors? I'd recommend at least 5-6" to allow for case moulding and an overall sense of "breathing room" around doors and windows.

As mamagoose suggested, moving the DW to the left of the sink will move it out of your primary prep zone. If you are the only person who cooks or cleans in your kitchen, this isn't much of an issue, but if you like to clean-as-you-go and have helpers, having the DW in the primary prep area will keep you stumbling over the DW door as you move between the stove and sink.

Other than that, I don't see any major problems with your other questions. I you had less than 4' between the fridge and island, I'd say to keep the island from running across from the fridge.

The dishwasher is to the right of our sink. We only have a couple of inches between the short cabinet run and the case molding of the french doors. It's hard to give up cabinet space for breathing room - do you think that's ok?

Oh I missed that comment about the dishwasher - I thought since the dining room is to the left of the sink it would be easier to have dishes brought in when the dishwasher is open if the DW is to the right of the sink?? Do you still suggest moving it to the left of the sink? We'll have a drawer MW in the island also. Can't find anywhere else to put a MW.

What is your plan to support the stone overhang? How do you plan to incorporate the required electrical outlets that the island needs?

With the waterfall, you'll have difficulty accessing the left and right doors of your shallow cabinets, unless you have 3" fillers on each side. Are you sure you need the storage? You have alot of cabinets in your design.

We're hoping to put a waterfall both on the end of the short cabinet run as well as the side of the island facing the dining room table (though I'm not sure we'll have room on the short cabinet run side). Good question on electrical - any ideas? If we do the shallow 12" cabinets on the seating side of the island we'd have the hinge on the outer end of the cabinet - that would allow us room to open the door, right?

Not without extended stiles or fillers. The fact that you don’t know that, and don’t understand the electrical or stone fabrication issues, says volumes. There are a lot of missing details that need to be actually designed into that, that you’ve missed. Time for a good Kitchen Designer.

We are meeting with our GC tomorrow to go over everything - he's done a ton of kitchens so hopefully he'll know the answers to those questions.

I would move the island a bit further to allow a full 48” between the cabinetry and the island on both sides. It’s just more comfortable if you have a helper (adult or child) in the kitchen with you.

Do not assume your GC knows squat about kitchen design. Great kitchens are all about the details down to ensuring space provides for refrigerator door(s) to open fully and inside drawers pull all the way out. Are you on a slab? Or do you have a basement under this space? If so, is it finished with ceiling. Since by code, you must have outlet in islands. You can get ones that sit under countertop and can pop up with multiple plugs. If you put sink in island you need proper drain etc. lots of details to consider and ensure are designed in properly. Another good reason to put range on side wall is so exhaust fan can exist to outside easily. Big issue venting if range is on island. Find a good kitchen designer.

Thanks Flo - all great points. We are on a slab.

OK, then unless you already have electrical conduits into slab to the island location, that creates a big cost item whether you use a range there or a sink. Don't know what type slab you have, but it will have to be jack-hammered out to make trenches for this service; gas, water, drains, etc. think several thousand dollars to do this, not considering structural issues with the slab. Not easy. I don't want to discourage you, but provide good information so you can make informed decisions.

Thanks Flo - there actually is electrical in that area already - we had a teeny tiny island when we moved in which we took out many years ago. So electrical is still under there - thankfully!! The island will only have a drawer microwave in it.

Whew! Perfect. So happy about that. How about water line? or 220 for a stove?

You’ll need to run an additjonal circuit for the MW. The circuit you already have is for other small appliances like hand blenders or crock pots. Better examine to see if more wire can be run through the conduit before finalizing those plans. And that your current electrical panel has the room needed for all of the many circuits that a modern kitchen requires.

Our sink is on the wall and stove is on the wall as well. Good points on electrical - thanks GreenDesign!

Yes, these are all the "details" from infrastructure to other details that a good kitchen designer will put into a design. GD is right, you will need an electrical review to ensure your "system" is sufficient to do "homeruns" (single lines for major appliances) into a breaker box. Just loads of things to consider.