Gap between back of my rangetop/island trim and wall..even with tile.
What solutions do you propose?
i plan to talk to kd and kitchen installer tomorrow. But would like to hear best solutions from members here. Custom cabinet with platform ..specs followed from Wolf guidelines. Pretty big gap with rangetop pushed all of the way back. Looks bad.
Comments (32)
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help: what to do w/ gap between countertop and marble window sill
Comments (7)Here's what our fabricator did: Before counter installation: this was an existing window and we didn't move it. The distance from the countertop to the bottom of the window opening would be less than an inch. Right after the counter and window sill were installed. Our fabricator laminated a piece of material of the thickness needed to the bottom of the sill - similar to what is done when making the counter edge. I think it would look right under each window as an extension of the sill and ending where the sill ends like ours does or under the whole group of windows. It may be easier to fabricate doing it the first way as it would be a very long thin piece for one piece to extend under all 5 windows. It looks like your filler will have to be thinner than your granite slabs so it may be difficult/expensive for the fabricator to make it extend much wider than the sill for the stacked appearance you want. Our fabricator did say that he was able to make thin pieces with our stone that can't be made with every stone when he made the thin pieces to trim our rangetop. He fabricated these pieces which are less than 1/2" high and ~3/4" wide (the slab thickness) and a bit over 2' long to fix a slight error they made when making the rangetop cut out. But I think the thin piece for the window sill wasn't as much of a concern for him because it was laminated onto the sill when it was made and didn't have to be carried around separately like the rangetop trim pieces....See Moregap between hood and quart backsplash
Comments (110)The radiation (radiant heat in the infrared) spreads out like light (because it is light), but this only falls as 1/R^2 when it is emitted from a point source. Other shapes only approach this at a significant distance. There are whole pages of thermal transfer functions applicable to one shape transferring heat by radiation to another nearby shape. But I get your intent. The heat flux density is higher closer to the gas flame, due both to more concentrated radiation, and to convection from the more concentrated hot gas impingement onto the shielding material. If the shielding material were highly conductive -- e.g., thick copper instead of thin stainless steel with an air gap behind it -- the thermal conductivity (heat spreading) could in principle be sufficiently high that, assuming a large enough surface with only some of it heated, it could conduct and then reradiate or convect back into the air the heat input such that all parts of the slab remained below the critical temperature. A heat pipe like architecture could also be imagined performing this function with less copper employed. The GE backspash, however, is the more practical approach....See MoreFilling gaps between countertop and range
Comments (14)@live_wire_oak and @weedmeister thanks for the tip. Looks like the Costco installer was an amateur. I asked him the exact same question and he mentioned the grates will be aligned and not the top of the stove. He also never checked the level. I guess I will call them and ask if they can send someone more knowledgeable over. For the back it says 1inch gap is enough but who knows, looks like no one knows what they are doing anymore. Also, I am hoping that once I install the microwave on top the vent will be pretty good and quickly remove any heat. @wacokid yeah I wish I never asked the question about cooktop + wall oven below the cooktop (instead of raised in the wall) on Houzz. After hearing it is not a popular combo in the US, I decided to demolish my current setup and change. Big mistake! Thanks for the filler options @Shannon_WI....See MoreBluestar RNB backguard vs island trim
Comments (22)Again, please download the installation manual for the cooktop and read it carefully. If you install according to the manufacturer's instructions, you should pass inspection, and most importantly, you have not given your insurance company a reason to exclude some or all of the cost of rebuilding your residence, should a fire occur. On that thought, it occurs to me that if one wanted to know what an unapproved but perceived as sufficient protection scheme would accomplish, pyrolysis-wise, embedding a series of thermocouples on the cooktop side of the first inflammable layer before tiling or whatever and then measuring temperatures with various cooking conditions might provide peace of mind, or might provide sufficient alarm to motivate accepting the rules for what they are. One would like manufacturers to perform this task for whatever conditions their sales people are touting, and then get UL approval if the data are favorable....See MoreILoveRed
5 years agoILoveRed
5 years agoChispa...I think somehow it needs to be placed further back. Look how far it sticks out in the front. I know it is meant to stick out some...but this is a lot.
ILoveRed
5 years agolast modified: 5 years ago
chispa
5 years ago
Lloyd Hoisington
5 years agoILoveRed
5 years agoILoveRed
5 years agodan1888
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoAn oscillating tool could be used to remove it in place.
I'd first remove the two anchoring screws and see if the cabinet needed to be anchored in a lower location.
wilson853
5 years agoILR, here's a photo of my range top cabinet. That should be an easy fix to remove the back then you can push it back to where it is supposed to be. My Capital range top is bumped out, but it still allowed us to push it back as far as we needed it to go to accommodate the adjacent countertops. Just as an FYI, my fabricator wanted the range top in place during templating, but then it needs to be removed during installation, so make sure that your plumber doesn't connect the gas line. I really like having drawers under the range top. I think you will too!
just_janni
5 years agoILoveRed
5 years agojust_janni
5 years ago
PROJoseph Corlett, LLC
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoILoveRed
5 years agoILoveRed
5 years agoJanni...I had the island trim in my last house with my Wolf range (not in an island) and didn’t even know there was another option to be honest?
ILoveRed
5 years agojust_janni
5 years agochispa
5 years ago
cookncarpenter
5 years agoILoveRed
5 years agoILoveRed
5 years agoILoveRed
5 years ago- PRO
Joseph Corlett, LLC
5 years agolast modified: 5 years ago - PRO
User
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoSadly, a lot of the kitchens that you see on Houzz are not designed for cooking. Or bathrooms for getting clean and brushing your teeth. They are designed for maximum visual appeal, regardless of function. And in many cases, regardless of code. How many bathrooms do you see with chandeliers over the tubs?
The manufacturer is very specific in this case, and that specificity is incorporated into the local code by default. You need the tall backguard against a wall. The only way to install that with an island backguard would be to reframe that with steel studs and cement board. Then you will still have the issue of your backsplash material potentially scorching. Because if you look at a kitchen that cooks, the stainless back guard is discolored by heat.
ILoveRed thanked User ILoveRed
5 years agoJust spent time looking for info on this Wolf riser. Looks like it comes in 3 sizes. Not saying I am going to do this but I am going to do my homework and consider it.
My rangetop already has the island trim so it looks like if I decided to use one of the risers the island trim can be removed easy enough with removal of two screws and installation of the riser.
Does anyone know if the riser is the same profile/depth as the island trim? Does it add any extra depth to the rangetop?
ILoveRed
5 years ago
cpartist