With an expected first frost of 9/20, it's too late to do a fall seeding. The rule of thumb on that is to seed 6 weeks before the first frost so the grass has a chance to get roots deep enough to survive any frost heaves. 10 days without water shouldn't really kill the lawn, but since you also said you had neglected it before hen, it may have been stressed already. Another question that comes to mind is whether you've tested your irrigation system (I'm assuming a permanent in-ground system here). A lot of people tend to take a "set it and forget it" approach to them, but sometimes a head will get damaged and need replacing. It's a good idea to test the system once a month or so. Turn each station on and check to see if each head is popping up and spraying where it should. If I were you, I think I'd do a dormant seeding. Are you looking for a traditional lawn or something a little less traditional that will use a lot less water? I'm going to assume a traditional lawn, since that's what most people want. For Colorado, your best bet will be Kentucky bluegrass (not that Kentucky 31 sounds like it might be kentucky bluegrass but is actually an unimproved tall fescue variety; it's hardy, but it has wide leaves and clumps, so it stands out in the lawn). KBG needs a lot of sun, but at higher elevations, it does well in more shade than it would in the rest of the country because the sun that hits is more intense. Get the best quality seed you can. Preferably, something with 0% weed and crop seed. You probably won't find that at a big box store. Check a nursery or online. To dormant seed, wait until it's too cold for the grass to germinate and spread the seed. I like to do it just before the first good snow. In the spring, it will germinate with the water from the snow melt and any random spring showers you may get. You've got time to deal with the weeds now. I usually prefer to spot spray weeds with something containing 2,4D. If they're everywhere, a mass spraying approach may be appropriate this one time.

Katie (the OP)... I really don't think thinning has much to do with root formation, only final size. I just recently ran an experiment here (for a totally different purpose) and planted nearly a dozen radishes in a single 12 oz plastic Dixie Cup (indoors under lights). They all germinated in two days an grew for 4 weeks (we just harvested them last week... mmmm, they were good). The roots all began to swell right up in two weeks and by the end of the fourth week wound up looking like dinner rolls packed into a baking pan, all bucked-up against one another and even popping out from between each other. Also I don't believe the issue is soil composition as I've grown root vegetables in heavy soil (referring to clay-ish and not nutrient density) and the roots still form... they tend to push up more out of the soil, tend towards misshapen and not get as large but they still form. So with those possibilities out of the way, that just leaves mineral deficiency or an imbalance or excess nitrogen... And the biggest clue here is that your greens (tops) grow just fine... so this tells me its not a mineral deficiency. The only thing left on the table that makes any sense is excess nitrogen levels. You don't state how you went about taking your samples or when, nor who did your testing (ex. was this a DIY kit? I'm wondering because most labs also do pH and organic matter). The nitrogen content in soil is so fleeting that if you didn't take your soil samples during the warm growing season, then the results you got likely may not really be relevant... this would be very likely if you were using fertilizer salts but also if you were growing organically as microbial activity is directly related to soil temps and moisture. I do know excess nitrogen will cause many root vegetables to push top growth rather than root formation (from first-hand experiences) and you did state how well your greens did so... What did you use for fertilizer during the growing season or how did you prepare your beds before you planted? These can all be clues to explain your lack of root formation and thus evolve into a solution. An example would be for instance say: if you mixed in (high-nitrogen) bat guano prior to planting and later side-dressed with blood meal and watered throughout the growing season with fish emulsion then the accessible nitrogen level could have been very high for the growing season but dropped off by fall with the cooling soil temps, if that's when you took your soil samples. I'm just throwing this out as an example but the only way for what you've described to be possible (based upon my own experiences anyway) seems to be an excess of nitrogen occurred during the growing season.

kudzu is right, if you are going to buy a foreclosure you have to be prepared to do significant work. In my area the bank usually asks far more than the property is worth based on its current condition. In other words, they price it high looking for someone that won't notice that it needs the back torn off because it wasn't permitted and isn't safe. How can it be safe without a foundation? I showed a foreclosure yesterday to one of my buyers and it needs absolutely everything: mold remediation, roof, HVAC, kitchen, baths, flooring, etc. The banks price is way too high for the amount of work. This is typical of many F/C'ed properties. If you are interested, do your due diligence and don't pay too much. Remember the liability for non-permitted work rides with the property. Not with the person that did the non-permitted work. That means it is up to you to cure it at your expense once you own it. Be careful here. I would rip that thing down in a heartbeat. PS As a Realtor, I see all kinds of violations and the bank sells AS IS and states that they have no idea. I was at the building department checking permits a couple of years ago on a property and the building department personnel told me about someone that had purchased a f/c in the same neighborhood, closed and then the next day the property was condemned so the buyer couldn't even move into the property. Don't rely on anything the bank may or may not tell you. Do your own research.

Hopefully that is an impact crack and not a problem with the subfloor. Removing and replacing the tile is the way to make it look "perfect". So long as the edges aren't dangerous, cracked tiles are welcome to be left in place (until they become dangerous). The grout on that tile also needs repair. I would check the entire floor to ensure you are not seeing the beginning of a failing tile floor. Failing tile can be seen with ++ cracked grout or multiple tiles that are looking stressed (fine cracks in the body of the tile that have yet to crack all the way through like the tile you show in your photos). A quick inspection of the entire floor will tell you whether or not a repair is even worth it. A tile floor that is in the beginning stages of failure is not worth repairing. I'm hoping Joseph will pop by to offer any suggestions for "filler" that might be used to correct the tile without removing/replacing. I'm a wood/cork flooring pro...which means tiles and stone are not my strong point.