Glad you were able to get it fixed without a hassle. I am on my third windshield in two years of my 2008 Rabbit. First repair place installed the wrong glass- it was for a VW Rabbit but not one with the overhead console thingie. Never could see out of the rear view mirror correctly. They insisted it was just me, they could see fine. Told Eric we would never go back there, I didn't appreciate being "treated like a girl". Second replacement, I used a different company and he got the right windshield and even checked 3 times before installing it. Apparently, there are about 5 versions of glass that fit different 2008 Rabbits! He also told me that the original and some replacement glass is from Mexico and is not as strong as that made in the US and other countries. Not sure if you can request your replacement glass from specific companies but if you end up having to get an all new windshield in the future, you might want to ask.

Sue you made my mother crack up :) Yes, the canned food would be perfect behind the bed...we can haul it out every time I have to make soup for the little guy :oP Great idea you pest :oP PC I"m trying....LOL We'll see. lascatx...the question about squareness is an issue I'm concerned about. The granite and cabinet are both set level (I checked) and the granite does rest on the entire box so I don't currently see any gaping issues, but I do worry about the situation down below getting worse. I'm thinking that a fix much like Rm's is probably going to be our option, but if the cabinet isn't solid, that's just a bandage, and then, I do have another in the same situation, but it isn't showing wall board behind it yet. (Same tray shelves and pullouts) I will say, after this I really wish that Woodmode would have been able to do our kitchen. They couldn't do all of the custom pieces I needed (mostly our bay window) so we went Omega. I regret it, which is sad to say given the price of these stupid cabinets. My mother has been complaining about the plastic supports since she arrived LOL I think I'm going to reorder metal ones from an after market source. I like the idea of more than a piece of plastic holding up my dishes. I personally think the system is flawed. In a smaller cabinet, perhaps it might work, but when you pull the shelf out, it is front heavy if it's loaded. The two cabinets we have like this are about 50% of our storage, so being without them for a period of time is really an incovenience. Well we'll see. I'm honestly at the end of my rope on this remodel.

Ok...here's what you can do: reach out to the original Contractor and tell him you need to bring in a flooring professional to deal with the issues left behind by his subcontractors. In building law (please consult your own state/provincial laws before doing anything...ahem...caveats are all over the place) the rule of thumb is the ORIGINAL installer (General Contractor) is allowed ONE attempt to fix an issue. After that, the homeowner is then allowed to bring in another professional to fix the issue...at the ORIGINAL installer's (GC) expense. But how does that work? That's the $64K question. How do you get the original GC to PAY for your flooring professional? That's where the communication with the GC comes in. That's up to you to negotiate how this works. Anyway, the board that is popping up is a concern for me because a well installed floating hardwood SHOULD BE super happy. Regardless of a 'fix', it should stay happy and stable. But the same 'spot' is having issues even after a few board replacements. That tells me there is SOMETHING ELSE going on. A wood flooring professional (www.nwfa.org to find your local certified flooring installer/inspector) will have the right knowledge to LOOK for the REAL reason why this same area keeps getting upset. It could be the subfloor is still wet. It could be the door is still leaking. It could be so many things...which a high-end professional will know to look for such things. The splinters in the wood are concerning as well. The one that STARTED OUT as a splinter can be repaired (wood glue) or replaced. I would start with the repair. As for the plank that has the veneer missing, I personally would leave it be because it is doing its job. But if you have left over product AND you are SUPER CONFIDENT in the professional flooring installer's abilities, then go ahead and replace it now. But here's my other concern that has NOTHING to do with installation: new splinters emerging. These floors are several months old and NEW splinters are emerging. The product you have chosen is a thin engineered hardwood. It is 9.5mm thick. That's considered 'thin' for a laminate floor let alone a hardwood floor. That means the veneer (the pretty top wood that has the stain on it) is going to be SUPER thin...and super thin veneer can have issues with stability (depending on the core it is sitting on). That's why most wood professionals like to see AT LEAST 3mm of wear layer on the top of the plank...because of stability. I would start looking at the indoor living conditions (humidity levels, AC control, heating system in the winter months, etc) when looking at NEW splinters. Splinters often indicate a dry climate or a climate that keeps shifting parameters (inconsistent humidity control, etc). Or if the entire board is splitting (the splitting goes PAST the wear layer) then the subfloor becomes a question once again. How 'flat' and level was the subfloor at the time the floor was installed? Was it 'wonky' and needed fixing? Or was it beautiful at the time the old floor was removed?

This is my favorite paintable caulk. It seems weird to fill it with clear caulk, however, I've found that it doesn't turn yellow like white paintable caulk does. https://www.lowes.com/pd/DAP-Alex-Plus-10-1-oz-Clear-Paintable-Latex-Caulk/3025039?cm_mmc=shp--c--prd--pnt--google--lia--221--caulk--3025039-_-0&placeholder=null&gclid=Cj0KCQiAqo3-BRDoARIsAE5vnaIFWKpC5sxTeXS0PQzmTsgqhWFJQwo1GC-21rjDkXB6-iWvPT2g0LUaAuihEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds