When someone posts a URL at the end of their post using the "Optional Link URL", why can I no longer open it in a new tab? I use Firefox browser and I cannot right click for that option as I used to do. I too use FF and Right Click on a link and then choose to have it open in a New Tab. What I have noticed in the past day or two is that when I click on a link and choose to open it in a New Tab, that the new tab opens Just to the right of the existing tab I am on, as opposed to it opening over to the very far right as it used to. Make any sense? I believe it has something to do with FF and not with GW. I just went to another site and clicked on a link and chose to have it open in a new tab, and it opened to the very right of the tab I had open. I recently updated FF and think it started happening after that...not positive though. You might try stopping by Computer Help, linked below and ask about it. Sue Here is a link that might be useful: Computer Help Forum

As it happens, things have changed. The technician Dell sent came with the replacement hard drive (with pre-installed XP and drivers). He installed it - booted - and the same hard drive warning occurred. Turns out it was my second internal hard drive (that I use for data) that was going bad. It was a good thing I already had the 2TB replacement. So he put the 2TB drive in - returned my original hard drive - and all functioned well - no hard drive error messages. Now I do have work ahead of me - but this changes the nature of it. Much better scenario - but still requires thinking through. There are probably just a few video files on the second internal hard drive that I don't have copies of. I think they're still accessible - so I will either get a docking station - or better yet an enclosure (since I will need one anyway - as I'll describe later) to put it in - and see if I can transfer those video files to my new 2TB internal drive. I think it makes sense to test that drive to see what's wrong with it - if it's repairable by Windows XP (I think if I run chkdsk there are possibilities to repair some damage?). Should I do this? Or are there other methods to safely test out the health of my hard drive? It is also a Western Digital. The timing of the hard drive failure is now making more sense. I had spent the previous weekend backing up lots of data files onto this second internal 1.5 TB hard drive. I think some of those transferred Tivo files might be problematic. (I say that for 2 reasons - when I've tried to defrag the hard drive, I recall a few files that couldn't be defragged - and while it was hard to see the path, I think they were the Tivo videos. Also, there were a few Tivo videos that failed to work properly when I tried to run VideoRedo to remove commercials. Some just seemed to be bad files - of course, I don't recall which those ones were - but it makes me wonder if it's the sources of the problem on that second hard drive.) Next step is call Dell - I bought that second hard drive from them 1 1/2 yrs ago. It has a 3 yr warranty. I'm not sure if the warranty will be honored by Dell or Western Digital (the brand of drive). So I figure I'll be getting a replacement 1.5 TB hard drive - which I can either install internally - use it as program drive or data drive. I can use the original 500GB drive externally. Or maybe I should keep it the way it is now. Original 500GB internal hard drive, second 2 TB internal hard drive - and put the replacement 1.5 TB hard drive in an enclosure and use for back-ups. One reason I'd like to use the 2TB drive as a program/boot drive (or master drive - I'm not sure of the language) is bc. it's supposed to be a faster drive - Western Digital Black Caviar 2TB drive - 7200rpm and 64MB Cache that was a bit pricier, but I thought it was worth it for quality and speed. It's this one: http://www.amazon.co...ref=oss_product (although I paid less than the price listed online) I'm new enough at all this that I don't understand everything about hard drive speed. I think that a larger drive can potentially slow things down a bit as it has to work to see date over a larger area/amount of data - but that the 7200rpm and 64MB cache will offer more speed - and the reviews suggest this thing is fast. I'd love any guidance in weighing these factors as I decide which to make the primary drive. I also want to clarify what to do with this drive. I don't know how to partition. And if I did, how large a partition should I create on this 2TB drive - if it were to hold the operating systems and programs? I don't know how much room that takes - and how to be sure to take the appropriate sections of my original drive to place into this partition. I can figure out what size each portion of my original hard drive is? I just don't know which folders go into the partition for programs/software? I don't want to leave any out - and I'm concerned I will miss some folders bc. I do not recognize what they are. If I partition the drive, I gather I don't clone it - but do it in sections. I also don't know if I should format it first. Or partition first. Disk management is fairly new to me although I did format a couple of drives. I didn't get into partitions and copying from one drive to another. Does it make sense to use this 2TB drive (which I bought for it's speed and good functioning) as the main drive? If so, I don't know the order of operations? Clone my original drive to this drive? Format and partition first (in which case I'll need to know how to get the proper system files vs. data files into the right partitions). I think I know that if I make this 2TB the master, I have to either switch the cables - but since I think they won't stretch to the second hard drive bay, I'll probably have to swap them. I am so relieved not to have lost my original drive. Although it consumed the better part of last weekend, I did learn plenty - and feel more confident cutting my "recovery" teeth on recovering data from the bad second drive which only has some video at stake. Just as a reminder my original drive has about 350GB data. Thanks everyone. Lynn. PS - I did learn a couple of important things from this technician. First, he updated the bios in my computer (which was several versions old). And he told me where to go to update the bios on my daughter's computer. That was useful. It's a question I've had for a while when I see people on this forum ask whether someone has updated their bios.

I am pretty sure we paid the same for the full lite and the 1/2 lite doors. Here's a closeup of the frame where the door transitions to glass. As you can see, there is no plastic raised frame surrounding the glass like you see on the doors at HD and Lowes. It looks more like the ones you get from the window manufacturers. Here's the only pic I could pull of a Thermatru door with a screen vented lite. I would make sure you saw this in person before ordering... What about installing a retractable screen instead of the vented lite? Also, if you were going to leave a window treatment on the door all the time, you could attach those sticky-backed magnets to the door and then use a magnetic curtain rod to hang it from. Maybe one of those ones that you can raise & lower?

12 year update on the Silverline 8000-8500 series. We built a new house in 2000 and asked the local window distributer for the windows he would use in his house. He stated that the Silverline windows were the best on the market and came with a lifetime warranty. So, we placed the order for 28 new windows. These were ordered with all of the bells and whistles. Double hung, Low-E, Argon filled, and internal grates. When the windows shipped they were nothing more than replacement windows with nailing fins attached to the frame. After the first 5 years most of the sashes were replaced for one reason or another. The biggest issue was they used a rubber seal between the panes of glass to keep the argon gas in failed under fluctuating hot and cold weather as we get here in New Jersey. When this seal fails the argon escapes and the glass quickly becomes visually streaky because the Low-E film sticks to the glass. The second issue is the plastic clips that keep the windows in the track have become brittle and have been breaking. By year 10 the majority of the sashes have failed and have been replaced under warranty. The main problem is that they will not replace the upper and lower sashes in pairs. They will only replace the unit that failed. When the new sash's were delivered they never matches the original sash. Now we have issues with air gaps and upper sashes that don't stay up when the windows are opened. Now every time we open a window the upper sash creeps down and the bugs are free to enter the house freely. Lower screen only, no full length screens were available for these windows. I've resorted to using white vinyl tape to keep the upper sash in place and keeping the air out. I called customer service regarding this situation and I was told that since Anderson bought Silverline they had no ability to accurately match up the sash dimensions exactly. I requested that they replace the sashes in pairs and they said this is not covered in the warranty. At year 12, I give up! I'm looking to replace all of the windows in the house (again). I guess the "lifetime" warranty really isn't worth the paper it's written on. I'd crumple it up and throw it out the window, but I can't open the windows anymore! (Or see out of them either!!!)