You can buy new doors inexpensively enough it make trying to repair the existing ones silly. Be aware gel stain is actually a form of paint. It is not a true stain. That has advantages and disadvantages. Easy to apply, relatively easy to remove(strippers/etc.) It does let some of the wood grain show. However, if you buy new doors, the maker should be able to come very close to matching what you have now. If you got unfinished wood, it would be possible to stain to match the existing color---IF. If you have the original stain recipe used on the cabinets. Most manufacturers use a blend of colors and different finishes. To match, you have to do the staining/finishing basically the same as the originals. I have a bit of experience in color matching on trim. I installed some rough cedar trim in a factory built house(not a mobile---this one had a real stone fireplace and two by six inch wall studs). The factory sent extra trim, but did not stain enough. I tried for two days to match the color---got close---but way off. Called the factory and they gave me the recipe---had four colors---of the same brand I was using. I had gotten two right. Would have never even tried one color and then there was the different amounts. So. My advice would be to save some frustration and get new doors. Have them match stain/finish and then even if you use gel stain, the new and old will match well.

The shoe molding is permanent. GC said some floor people like to have it nailed down before and some after finishing. I guess the ones who like it down before are ones you can trust to be extra careful with your cabinets. I never really noticed in other kitchens whether they had that or not, so you might want to look specifically for that in FKB and ask some of those specifically. It's one of those things my GC automatically puts down unless I specify otherwise, and in my case with my uneven floors and walls and ceiling it was necessary. I bet if you say something about your fridge to them when they are giving an estimate, they will be sure to take care of it. Something like 'I know someone who had her brand new stove marked up during the process, and I'm so nervous about something happening to my refrigerator [demure giggle]. I know you will be careful but I couldn't help mentioning it.' (I'm no good at those giggles but you get what I mean.) We have painting left, next week, and then moving furniture back in to be 100%. I have pics floating around on various threads for one reason or another, but here is the link. Most current pics are in this album and the During one. Thanks for asking! Here is a link that might be useful: My almost-finished kitchen

OK! Yes I can definitely see the 1939 there. Not quite into modern era but beyond early 1900s. I think my original opinion still stands - what do the door and window trim look like- the piece in the pic looks kinda solid, more substantial than the baseboard? Why do you say door is "hollow core" - looks to me like solid wood framing or possibly veneered with plywood inset panels...? If it truly is hollow prob not worth it.... or if veneered and badly chipped.... but if not it look great refinished - with that wild grain and door knobs that's the kind of period detail that is irreplaceable. I dont know if I would remove any trim. The beauty of flat plain surfaces is that you could get a really good high powered palm type sander able to hook up to a vac and just have at it. If you were to use a gel stain you wouldn't even have to take off all the original finish just enough to smooth and clean up the wood. Re upgrading to "better quality" - I don't know if anything that great or period appropriate can be found in a big box store - the fake Victorian stuff is way too thin and unsubstantial not to mention out of character with 1939. Would have to come from specialty place (in fact I think Ive seen that same baseboard once in a catalog LOL) or be milled but either of those two aren't really prohibitively expensive IMHO - just a simple flat trim of some sort would be good. Or if your house is small you might find something in a large enough quantity in an architectural salvage place. Klem you have a question mark after your last sentence - don't you think the oak trim and floor looks good together? Even if OP replaces I must say that the oak + oak looks good.

Your tile is cracked but is it loose? If it isn't actually coming off the mortar bed you could try to stiffen the joists if you have access from below. If they are traditional solid wood joists, sistering them with 2x10 metal studs to take out deflection is not that hard or expensive. You could also add a support wall mid-span. It is also possible that your floor has plenty of support on paper, but if it was put in when the house was new, the house just moved around too much because the framing dried out. The FIRST step here, is getting a tile expert on site IN PERSON to take a look at the framing under the floor and see why the tile has cracked. To get that floor up you are looking at pulling your kitchen apart, jackhammers, the works. That radiant heat is likely embedded in a 3/4" cement layer. You ready to do that? Because honestly for some framing reinforcement at $1,700 to save the floor I'd go that route unless you are ready for major remodeling.