We are in a neighborhood where we were able to take our aluminum storms to a glass repair shop that isn't very reliable but inexpensive and has about a one week turnaround. We've had to replace a number of our storm windows that had gotten thrown away from the clean-out crew when we bought the house. Even though my boyfriend has meticulously repaired almost all of the wooden windows, we drove down to HD and ordered storms to fit the windows that were either in dire shape or missing. All of what you seem to describe can be done by repairing rather than replacing the windows or the storms. The best way to clean them is to use steel wool - you could do this in situ or by taking them off the jamb. To lubricate, use (I'm guessing) a silicone based lube, and just spray it into the tracks. Even though we try to make everything work perfectly, you only raise and lower a storm a few times a year. Fortunately, it sounds like you don't need to worry about a huge repair cost. You just need to find someone who can get up on the ladder and follow your specifications!

We just finished a major remodel, in which many 1950s-vintage aluminum casement windows were replaced by Andersen 400 (CXW24) units. The thermal improvement is great. But acoustically, not so much. In fact, the Andersen double pane casements seem noisier than the 50 year old original single pane casements. When the new windows are closed tightly, outside "white noise" (like wind or distant traffic) turns into a distinctive rushing or humming noise. In fact, it sounds as though the window is next to a water pipe with water running through it. Now I like the sound of running water as much as the next person, but it gets pretty tiresome to have it going for hours on end. In the bedrooms. And in the office. FWIW, we put Pella windows in 10 years ago as part of a master bedroom remodel, and they are quiet as can be. I contacted Andersen, and they said that this was something they had never heard of (so to speak). Now I'm wishing we had stuck to Pella. Just wondering if anyone else has experienced odd window noise with Andersen 400 casements?

If you are putting up new siding, going a full tear out with a nailing flange is certainly an option and preferable if you can afford the added expense of new interior trim, stools, etc. That will get you back some of the glass lost in a typical pocket or insert style replacement and give you the most complete type of installation (assuming your contractor is competent). Look for a window with an integrated J-channel and nailing flange.

Yes, there is. You can replace the old aluminum tracks with vinyl tracks, but probably have to replace the sash as well. The vinyl tracks and new sash are sold as a 'kit' to replace old inefficient glass and balance systems. The new Sash Kit allows your upper and lower sash to tilt in for cleaning as well. Least expensive way to upgrade your windows and tracks and is a do it yourself job in most cases. Check out Hurd Windows (hurd.com) and look up Sash Replacement Kit for more info.