I have not been on this site for very long, but I want to say what admiration I have for all of you. Your camping is real camping. My husband and I are 'city slicker campers' I guess. We stick to the state parks where we have all the amenities. The last time I was close to a grown bear was in the 50's when I worked for the summer at Giant Forest Lodge in the Sequoia Nat'l Park. A few of the tips I have learned through the years are as follows: If you have an Aloe Vera plant at home, cut off a long leaf blade and wrap the cut end of it in tin foil. Keep it in a plastic bag in the ice chest. If you have a bite or minor scrape, cut off a slice of the Aloe and rub the gel over the affected area. Sorry, it doesn't seem to work on poison oak or ivy. We are Italian and have to have our pasta even in a camp- ground. Since we use Basil as seasoning for both the sauce and in salads, I usually just transplant a Basil plant into a 1 gallon plastic container and leave it on the picnic table. Animals aren't interested and it seems to do the plant some good to have a vacation. If you have kids with you and will be near a lake or river(at least in Central Calif.) bring string to catch some Crawdads. You tie some bacon to the end of the string and let it lie in the water near some rocks in a shallow stretch of water. When the crawdad crawls out to grab the bacon, wait until he has a good grip and then slowly pull the string up. A crawdad is so tenacious that he will not let go until he is dumped into a bowl or coffee can. The kids like to catch them, but my husband was the one who always had the water boiling. Crawdads are small, but delicious. Long ago when we went camping with other families, a friend showed us how to make hot water bottles from the bags that come from the "wine boxes". I don't know if they even sell the wine packaged in this way anymore. It is a cardboard box that has a spout in the side for pouring the wine and after it is empty, you tear open the box and use the strong "aluminum," looking bag inside filled with hot water. It stays hot all night and we never had one break. Sorry I am so long winded, it's the Irish in me, I believe. Lina.

You were refueling. Gardenweb is one of my favorite places to refuel before I plunge into whatever I'm trying to accomplish. Unfortunately, the more I read about here, the longer the list grows :-). Update on the room: I got the plaster bonding agent. I ended up getting Silpro Weld-o-bond because it was available locally, and it is labeled for bonding old plaster to gypsum materials. If you are in the greater Boston area this may be easier to find than Link or Plasterweld. I tried spraying it but I wimped out on the mess. Plus it was beading and dripping off the plaster, not soaking in. I ended up brushing it into the cracks with a small (1 1/4") Purdy brush. I had to make multiple passes as the first pass would apply, second would break surface tension, and subsequent ones would provide more liquid to absorb. I also thinned it nearly 50/50 with water per label instructions. It is fantastic! No more crispy crumblies! I can run my finger down a crack, and it does not rain sand down on me. I wish I'd known about this before; it is great stuff. At $12/gallon, it's a cheap lifetime supply. Today I am moving some cabinets around in my kitchen so that the refrigerator can open fully (it has been flush to a side wall since we moved in 2 years ago). Wish I'd thought of this before. Of course, the cabinets are 50 years old and nailed in 50 different ways, so it's a bear to get them out. I'll be using screws to put them back :-). Hopefully I will finish that today and then it's back to the trunk room.

I don't doubt that Chris means well, but he/she is obviously not a plumber and once again he/she has totally missed the mark on this one. Obviously the pit in question was originally intended to be a sump pump pit, not a sewage ejector pit. First of all, Code expressly prohibits using any open pit as a sewage ejector. All pumps intended as sewage ejectors must be listed and approved as a "sewage ejector pump" All sewage ejector pumps MUST BE fully contained in a water tight enclosure that is fitted with a water tight removable lid and the enclosure MUST HAVE a separate vent running through the roof of the structure. The vent MAY NOT be connected to any other vents within the structure. All lines entering the sewage ejector vessel MUST BE standard gravity flow lines complete with traps and proper venting. The vents for these lines may not be tied to the sewage ejector vessel vent. All lines entering the sewage ejector vessel must discharge a minimum of 2" above the highest float start position of the pump. The discharge line from a sewage ejector must have an automatic check valve on the vertical portion of the line and above the automatic check valve it MUST BE equipped with a manual gate valve to permit manually closing off the line to service the pump or check valve. The discharge from the pit MUST BE lifted above the house gravity flow DWV line and the pump discharge line must be connected to the house DWV line by means of a Wye with the side opening of the Wye on the top of the pipe. Under the IRC (Interantional Residential Code) the minimum allowable discharge capacity for a sewage ejector pump is 14.2gpm. The discharge load for a sewage ejector must be computed at 1.5DFU's (Drainage Fixture Units) for each Gal/min from the pump. Minimum DFU load is 1.5dfu x 14.2gpm = 21.3DFU's. Under the UPC(Uniform Plumbing Code) the minimum allowable discharge capacity from the pump is 20gpm and the load is to be computed at 2dfu for each Gal/min from the pump thus under the UPC them minimum load is 2dfu x 20gpm = 40DFU Once you have determined the DFU load from the pump that value must be added to the existing load on the gravity flow line receiving the discharge, and the gravity flow line must be sufficient to handle the combined load. If you then consult the code DFU table for drain lines you will find that unless you have a 4" main drain it is highly doubtful whether you can connect a sewage ejection pump legally. AC CONDENSATE DRAIN LINE AC condensate drain lines are required to discharge outdoors or into an approved "Indirect Waste Receptor". Under no circumstances may they be plumbed directly into the DWV system. Condensate drain lines may terminate into a laundry/utility sink, a floor drain or a sump pit however, the lowest portion of the condensate drain line must remain a minimum of 2" above the flood level rim of the receptor.

Sounds like a pretty typical inspection report for a home built in 1930. Seems to me that this wanna be buyer doesn't have a clue about old homes and thinks they are being cute by posting this report. For a price in the ballpark of 150,000-165,000, I'd think this is a very fine house!