St. Augustine Lawn mostly dead after installing SOD last spring
harmlessfuzzball57
6 years ago
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harmlessfuzzball57
6 years agoRelated Discussions
St. Augustine sod job going bad again - Photos
Comments (6)You got what I had before I discovered corn meal. Corn meal finally got me over the hump and the grass is absolutely normal in that spot now. You can put down new sod every week, but it's going to die. You have to get rid of the disease. Once that happens, you will not need to redo it with new sod. The sod that's there will come in fine. Your soil pH is perfect for St Augustine. Don't waste your money trying to fix it. What that indicates is your soil is made of calcium sand instead of silica sand. You can pour straight sulfuric acid on it from now on and all you'll get is a deeper hole where the sand dissolves. Much of Texas soil is 8+ and St Aug absolutely thrives. Your problem is water retention...if you call that a problem. Actually your problem is you continue to water despite your water retentive soil. Clearly your initial watering routine is going to have to be different from the "normal" 3x per day routine. If your roots are knit into the underlying soil, back off on watering. Watch the grass for signs of wilting. When it wilts, then water and start watching it again. This time of year I would be looking at watering once every 3-4 WEEKS. If it has been at least 3 weeks since you used a fungicide, then you might want to try corn meal along with a light dusting of finished compost. A light dusting of compost means 1/2 to 1 cubic yard per 1,000 square feet - or even less. The reason corn meal works against disease is that as the corn decomposes on the soil, a beneficial (predatory) fungus appears on the corn. That predatory fungus will destroy the disease fungus. The trick is that you have to have at least some of the predatory fungus in your soil to begin with. By applying a chemical fungicide, you usually kill off the beneficial fungi leaving none behind to keep the disease out. Compost will reintroduce the beneficial fungi to the soil which will then populate on the decomposing corn. Corn takes 3 full weeks to show any improvement. The improvement will be that the new grass will grow to full height without getting any spots or lesions on the blades. You can see the spots in your second picture of the second post near the top of the image. St Aug should have no spots whatsoever. Here are some pictures. The first is normal and the second shows the fungal disease spots. As I recall these two pictures were of the same area taken about 6 weeks apart before and after (or after and before) corn meal treatment. Okay so generally here's how you care for St Augustine. Water. Deeply and infrequently. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Infrequently means once per week with temps above 90, once every 2 weeks with temps in the 80s, once every 3 weeks with temps in the 70s, and once every month the rest of the year. In your case you might be able to stretch these frequencies out some. Mowing. Mulch mow at your mower's highest setting every week or two. In the spring when it's growing very fast, you might need to mow 2x per week. Tall St Aug is much healthier and needs less water and fertilizer than short mowed grass. St Aug can be extremely healthy at 32 inches tall (I have pictures), so letting it get up to 5 or 6 inches is not a problem. Fertilizer. Once on Memorial day, once on Labor Day, and once around Thanksgiving. Seeing as how you're so far south you might move these to once in early May, once in late Sept, and once around Christmas....See MoreWhat to do with my dead new st augustine lawn.
Comments (9)Yes I'd like to see the pictures. You were watering far too long at first and then switched to far too frequently. Here's more on watering. For most lawns you cannot go cold turkey from new grass to mature watering, but St Aug and bermuda are much more tolerant of the switch. Watering: Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the daytime air temperature. With temps in the 90s, deep water once per week. With temps in the 80s, deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s, deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70, deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. This deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont, so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall....See MoreDying st augustine newly sod lawn
Comments (6)I'd like to add my dilemma until Carol comes back. Newly installed Palmetto St. Augustine. I am in Coastal South Carolina. Watered per respected installer (who did roll the sod) instructions....twice a day for 10 days then once and day for two weeks then every two days for two weeks then on the 6th week every 3-4 days for once a week, cutting back on the more shaded areas. Cutting at 3 inches. I replaced this sod because last year (when I purchased the house, the previous yard was highly neglected...bare spots or weeds basically) my newly installed Zoysia died within 6-8 weeks. With the Zoysia I was told it was due to pests. My current installer treated the lawn about a month before installation. I'll attach photos for reference. The dead spots are getting larger....See Morenew bermuda tifway 419 lawn sod care. installed July 1st Austin TX
Comments (10)You can rent a water fillable roller, possibly even at Home Depot. They are very heavy even before adding water. You likely don't have to add water, especially since no tilling was involved. That is one thing the installer did right (not tilling). The water should be just barely enough to moisten the soil under the sod. If the soil feels soft or squishy, that's way too much water. Check it with a screwdriver, not your feet. You don't want to create holes by walking on it. The screwdriver should go in easily through the sod and then get hard to push in. That will change later on, but for now you just need the surface to be moist so the roots of the sod knit into the underlying soil. Search this forum for "deep and infrequent" to find my (overworked) advice about watering. To address your initial concern, I believe the dead looking grass is dormant and will revive with the daily water. Bermuda is insanely hard to kill, but relatively easy to make dormant. You asked about fertilizer. 419 can take monthly fertilizer with a high N, fast release like uncoated urea (48-0-0). But you don't have to use the super high N ferts or do it every 4 weeks. The point is it is hard to hurt bermuda with fertilizer. Ammonium sulfate is low cost and will provide some minimal amount of acidification to your alkaline soil. AS will also kill all the snails and slugs you might have, so there's a bonus. There are folks around who are successful with monthly applications of an organic fertilizer like corn gluten meal or even alfalfa pellets. Call around to your local feed stores to get prices and availability. They will all have alfalfa pellets (rabbit chow), but only a few will have corn gluten meal. If you want a commercial organic fertilizer, there are many organic nurseries in the Austin area. John Dromgoole has a very nice nursery near the Barton Creek Preserve. Be prepared to follow some strict covid rules. You asked about micronutrients. You'd need a good soil test to know that. Unless you are a die hard TAMU fan, get the $20 soil test from Logan Labs in Ohio. When they email the results, post them as a new topic here and morpheuspa will tell you what to apply, how much, when, how often, and why. Search this forum for 'soil test' to see what kind of advice you can expect. You could get similar testing from TAMU but they don't run the full battery of tests unless you pay for the extras. Logan Labs runs the full test every time. As I'm sure morph is reading this, morph, is there anything he needs to tell Logan Labs about his soil? Our typical soil is 1,000 feet deep of limestone with a pH of 8.0. Another issue you might see is nutgrass popping up in the sod. Don't get excited about that. Nutgrass is a swamp type sedge that loves the extra water you're putting out. Once the grass becomes established (early August), you'll back way off on the watering frequency and the nutgrass will disappear/hybernate until we get another multiday rain event. That usually happens for us in September. AT THAT TIME is a good time to put down a preemergent herbicide. The early fall rains is when the Texas wildflower seeds germinate. The little plants immediately go dormant waiting for the cold temps and then the spring conditions to bolt into full sized plants. You can avoid the spring "weeds" with the fall preem applied during that rain event....See Morewantonamara Z8 CenTex
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