Did those come installed that way? If so, I'd call the landscape company and complain. Those sheets are burned.

If not, they're not getting anywhere near the water required, but it looks like it's getting to be too late for that and they need replacement at this point. 20 minutes twice daily clearly wasn't anywhere near enough, particularly in Texas heat and sun.

Step up the watering to establish the ones that are still green and struggling to get those established and replace the dying and dead turf rolls. Some might come back as water increases, but some won't. I'd suggest watering until the sod remains damp at all times during the day, however long that is, for the first month. Then slowly back off on the watering to give it short dry periods at the surface that become longer day by day.

Don't feed or add anything to the mix at this time other than water. It would stress what remains.

Actually...this is bermuda after all. I would not call those dead yet. Ugly? Certainly, but dead? Jury is still out on that.

20 minutes twice a day might not be perfect yet. I would go with 10 minutes three times per day, breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

Also, did the installer roll the sod down? If not then that would be a reason to all him to come back. If they do come back, be sure the soil is not soggy underneath before they roll it. That would be a huge mess. If you can walk on it without sinking in, that's perfect. The reason for rolling is to ensure the bottom of the sod is in contact with the top of the soil. Roots will not grow through the air to find moisture or soil.

Out of curiosity, did they prep the surface before putting the sod down? How did they do that?

Installer did not roll the sod. On existing ground they just put one thin layer of landscaping mix (attached the image) and put the sod sheets on top of it and at the end we turned on sprinklers for 30mins. They did not do any tilling.

Actually, installer was rude and I am actually not fully satisfied with his work. So I am not planning to call him. I should find some other landscaping person to do the repairs if needed. Please recommend me what I need to do as next steps along with rolling.

Water, water, water. Make sure the mats of sod, post-rolling, are moist at all times for at least the first two weeks (actually, until they re-green and are established for two weeks, at this point). Bermuda likes the heat, but does need water to establish.

You can "roll" the mats by walking on them if you have to. Just make sure to walk on every square inch. Been there, done that, takes forever.

As to how often and how long watering will take, I'm guessing three times a day for 15 minutes as an initial guess, and work the timing from there. It'll depend on the weather, of course. Hope for rain.

After it establishes and begins to root, begin to back off slowly on the watering. Drop to 20 minutes of water once per day. Then, about a week later, if the lawn is OK, drop to every other day. A week later, every third day.

At the one-month mark after it establishes, you can feed the lawn--but not before then. And even at that point, I'd be gentle and go at half rate on the feeding, every 2 weeks. The roots won't be deep and can't absorb very much, so there's no sense in dumping a lot that will simply wash through.

You can rent a water fillable roller, possibly even at Home Depot. They are very heavy even before adding water. You likely don't have to add water, especially since no tilling was involved. That is one thing the installer did right (not tilling).

The water should be just barely enough to moisten the soil under the sod. If the soil feels soft or squishy, that's way too much water. Check it with a screwdriver, not your feet. You don't want to create holes by walking on it. The screwdriver should go in easily through the sod and then get hard to push in. That will change later on, but for now you just need the surface to be moist so the roots of the sod knit into the underlying soil. Search this forum for "deep and infrequent" to find my (overworked) advice about watering.

To address your initial concern, I believe the dead looking grass is dormant and will revive with the daily water. Bermuda is insanely hard to kill, but relatively easy to make dormant.

You asked about fertilizer. 419 can take monthly fertilizer with a high N, fast release like uncoated urea (48-0-0). But you don't have to use the super high N ferts or do it every 4 weeks. The point is it is hard to hurt bermuda with fertilizer. Ammonium sulfate is low cost and will provide some minimal amount of acidification to your alkaline soil. AS will also kill all the snails and slugs you might have, so there's a bonus. There are folks around who are successful with monthly applications of an organic fertilizer like corn gluten meal or even alfalfa pellets. Call around to your local feed stores to get prices and availability. They will all have alfalfa pellets (rabbit chow), but only a few will have corn gluten meal. If you want a commercial organic fertilizer, there are many organic nurseries in the Austin area. John Dromgoole has a very nice nursery near the Barton Creek Preserve. Be prepared to follow some strict covid rules.

You asked about micronutrients. You'd need a good soil test to know that. Unless you are a die hard TAMU fan, get the $20 soil test from Logan Labs in Ohio. When they email the results, post them as a new topic here and morpheuspa will tell you what to apply, how much, when, how often, and why. Search this forum for 'soil test' to see what kind of advice you can expect. You could get similar testing from TAMU but they don't run the full battery of tests unless you pay for the extras. Logan Labs runs the full test every time. As I'm sure morph is reading this, morph, is there anything he needs to tell Logan Labs about his soil? Our typical soil is 1,000 feet deep of limestone with a pH of 8.0.

Another issue you might see is nutgrass popping up in the sod. Don't get excited about that. Nutgrass is a swamp type sedge that loves the extra water you're putting out. Once the grass becomes established (early August), you'll back way off on the watering frequency and the nutgrass will disappear/hybernate until we get another multiday rain event. That usually happens for us in September. AT THAT TIME is a good time to put down a preemergent herbicide. The early fall rains is when the Texas wildflower seeds germinate. The little plants immediately go dormant waiting for the cold temps and then the spring conditions to bolt into full sized plants. You can avoid the spring "weeds" with the fall preem applied during that rain event.

We've got a thunderstorm rolling in, so this will be short. Initially, my recommendation will be nothing until the sod is established. So even with a soil test, just water through the summer and remind me of this when you post your test--no soil apps of anything until September at the earliest. :-)

I laid 40 yards of Latitude 36 last week in the 90+ Virginia heat. No rain for the first week. A couple of days reached 100. 20 minutes of watering twice a day and it's looking good. The brown patches are turning green. Don't give up on it.

Shelly, we will need pics (in a new topic)!!!

Check out this guy on YouTube, great advice for Bermuda.

Doc seems like a nice guy, but he advocates some products which I find to be extremely wasteful ($$) and likely useless. I am not a fan of his chemical chemical chemical approach. And he waters every day. It's like he's growing a golf course and not a residential lawn. There are people with residential lawns who have just a nice a lawn with much less expense in time and money.