Hey, gandle, we're having sleeplessness at the same time, it looks like. Mine's my back. Been 4 days now, the muscles are so tense they're starting to spasm. I hate that sensation. The pain meds I have, have lately started making me really nauseous so I'm having a little pity party right now. I think I'll follow your example, and try to distract myself by thinking about other things for a while. Anticipating the gardening season would be a good subject. Then I have a nice glider chair that might soothe me to sleep a bit more before I have to get up.

Popcorn: No Picasso here Bro lol ! My point was the Creative Editing is not req'd. You call it tomatoe I call it tomotoe . The Jest of my Post was to IDENTIFY SAFETY as PARAMOUNT IMPORTANCE to the Manual Shut off Valve Requirement from Mownies Original Advice. Not for Internal Engine Damage Protection due to compromised oil integrity from gas contamination . Although very important point for Engine Integrity , it is secondary to Fire Damage and Personal Injury or loss of life in a House Fire Situation. Did not wish to get in a debate over semantics . Mownie is correct there is a definite diference within Normal Fuel Inlet Needle Valve and more Precise Fuel Inlet Metering Valves . I have work on both types . Mostly Walbro WB & WG Series Carbs on Chainsaws Pioneer , Solo , Jonsered referred to as Metering Needle Valves . Also Keihein NG Tiltison HD Series within various Snowmobile's Snow-Jet & Arctic Cat & Polaris were again the Needle Valves are referred to Metering Needle Valves . Both examples are Atmospheric & Density (sensitive) controlled units . However the secondary examples within snowmobiles are 2-stage Inlet Needles with primary and secondary fuel circuits. Much more precise fuel delivery back in the 70's . Sorry probably a little too much info. Mownie is a Smart Dude just gets a little carried away with the Editor and Chief Title . Neither form of Fuel Inlet Control Valve Application would have Confused or Negated the Point that I was making "Safety" over Engine Maintenance. Anyhow I hope the OP gets his tractor running and installs the Manual Fuel Shutoff to protect his Investments as a Homeowner !

Most of the time I wake up before my 5:30 AM alarm goes off. Up, turn on the TV, and the computer, get dressed, read email and the paper online while eating breakfast. Then, peek in here at the KT, and on facebook, and get ready to go to work. If I ride my bike I leave the house 15 minutes earlier than if I drive. I work till 1:30 PM officially, but most times don't get out till after 2:00 I return to my bed after the 10:00 PM news and start the whole fun scenario again. :) Moni

Removing humidity via central air conditioner, minisplit, window unit, portable a/c unit with an exhaust hose, or standalone portable dehumidifier all involve refrigeration and cooling ... humid room air is pulled across a cold evaporator coil to entice the moisture to condense onto the surface of the coil ... like "sweat" on a cold soda can or glass of iced tea, etc. ... which is collected and drained away. Slow airflow rate promotes the moisture condensation. A Friedrich (rebadged LG) window unit at work has a Dry setting ... which sets the fan to low speed and automatic-cycling mode (vs. the fan blowing continuously). It can't be changed to any other speed on Dry. Regular Cool mode has three speeds and option of automatic or continuous fan. The thermostat continues to function to control the set room temperature on Dry, there's no evidence that it cools lower than the setpoint. Other units or systems may skew the thermostat a bit so that they can cool to a lower temp in an attempt to run longer and remove more moisture. My parents' Lennox central system with humidistat/humidity control does that ... there's a set-up option on the high-tech thermostat to specify how many °F below the setpoint it can cool in an attempt to reach the target humidity level. Mom mentioned a few months ago that they set it on 76°F but it sometimes cools to 74°F and dad gets cold. They had the humidity set on 45%, and I found the 2°F overcool in the setup menu. I explained to her why 74°F happens, she said "I don't understand what that means." I raised the humidity setting to 52% (but didn't change the overcool allowance since humidity is a concern on the TX coast). A standalone dehumidifier doesn't effectively cool the area because they don't exhaust the heat outdoors ... the cooled/dehumidified airflow is blown across the warm condensor coil inside the room space which rewarms it. The room temperature can increase because the compressor operation adds some heat. Central a/c systems, minisplits, window units, and portables with an exhaust hose don't work that way, they always cool the room ... except Patrick Pelletier on July 9 2020 above says his portable unit instructs to remove the exhaust hose so the warm exhaust air blows into the room instead of outdoors, which effectively turns it into a standalone dehumidifier-type of unit. Lower humidity feels cooler to the occupants because moisture/sweat evaporates off the skin much more readily for a cooling effect.