Very useful links from kbarb. Of note is that it says it's not a true sync but rather just a download from Yahoo to the device (nothing goes in the other direction). If it hasn't happened yet, give it some time, or try rebooting your ipad and starting up the app again. I find that custom-built apps (like the one for Y Mail), whether in IOS or Android flavors, are easier and faster to use with web-based information than using browser access.

I suggest shipping the cake in the cake pan. I'm not sure if you were thinking about a layer cake - that may be hard to ship. But if you make a cake in a 9 x 13 pan or a bundt pan, just ship it in the pan which would keep it intact. Here is a recipe for a cake to ship that I found with packaging suggestions: Want to make someone who is far away from home very, very happy?! Make them a cake and send it to them. Maybe you heard Ben talk about this cake on the radio. Or maybe you just want to do something nice for someone who is a long way from home. This cake is easy to make, ships well and will just surprise the heck out of anyone who opens it up! Easy Chocolate Cake For People Overseas 1 Stick Of Butter 4 Eggs 16oz Hershey Chocolate Syrup 1 Cup Flour 1 Cup Sugar 1 tsp Baking Powder 1 tsp Vanilla Disposable aluminum pan for shipping Cream butter and sugar. Add eggs and chocolate syrup and vanilla. Blend in flour and baking powder. Pour into a well greased 8" pan. Bake at 325 degrees for 60 min. or till toothpick shows done. Cool it completely. Tips: Bake in a heavy 8" pan (not in the disposable aluminum pan) and put on top of a cookie sheet in case it spills over. After it is cool, run knife around edges of cake to loosen and dump whole cake on top of a large sheet of saran wrap. Wrap well and place in the aluminum cake pan and wrap well again. You may want to use some bubble wrap, too. We suggest you ship this in the UPS flat rate box (11 x 8½ x 5½) for a set price of $7.70 regardless of weight. Be sure to include standard customs forms, and you should be able to add a few goodies for no extra postage charge.

I think this is a great idea. I put in the zip code for the part of Ohio I used to live in and let it work. I have a couple of problems with the results. Here is the Spring results for Beavercreek, OH, zip 45430. Spring All Season Mow at height of 3" for first mow of spring as soon as the grass begins to grow Mow at height of 3.75" April April 18 - First day to seed April 11 - Summer annual weed pre-emergent herbicide application deadline. May May 10 - Last day to seed May 4 - Fertilize with 3.75 lbs of Nitrogen First: If you are going to suggest spring seeding, I would put in some more information about the hazards of that practice. Spring is a horrible time to seed new grass, and mid to late spring is worse and worse. Bluegrass is the very worst for that time of year because it takes almost a month of continual watering to germinate the grass seed. The reason spring is bad is that crabgrass and other summer annual weed seed is germinating at exactly that same time. By watering for a month you can guarantee every weed seed in the lawn will have beaten the bluegrass seed to the surface. If you could seed in early spring you might be able to miss some of the weeds, but you're still going to have a yard full of weeds in July. Secondly typical turf grasses seeded in the spring do not have time to develop roots sturdy enough to make it through a hot summer. Again, weeds in July. Second: April 11 might be too late for preemergent. Generally the guidance we have been giving here is based on Nature. The time to do preemergent is when the forsythia are blooming in your neighborhood. That may or may not be April 11 for Beavercreek. If the Beavercreek temperature averages correspond to the forsythia bloom, then this is perfect guidance, but it might be altered every year by an early or late forsythia bloom. Third: ...and please don't get discouraged by my comments - I'm trying to be helpful. In keeping with the natural approach, May 4 is likely to be too early to fertilize. The idea for the spring fert drop is to apply after the initial spring flush of new/fast grass growth. Applying early will force the plants to use too many nutrients they have stored over the winter. It will be worn out before the summer. Too many people jump the gun with spring fertilizer and cause problems with late spring and summer growth and health. Fertilizing late is better than fertilizing early. Change that, fertilizing late is much better than fertilizing early. We typically talk about fertilizing on Memorial Day for two reasons: one is that it is easy to remember, and the second is that it is guaranteed to be after the grass has stopped rocketing out of the ground. On to summer... Summer All Season Mow at height of 4" June June 26 - July 10 - Fertilize with 3.75 lbs of Nitrogen June 22 - Grub worm preventer application deadline. First: Grass undergoing summer heat stress can sometimes be overstressed by a dose of chemical fertilizer. For that reason, if you are going to recommend summer fertilizer, I would emphasize using an organic fertilizer like Milorganite, alfalfa pellets, or soybean meal. Second: Recommending insecticide on a lawn with no grubs is irresponsible. What I would recommend for that date is to dig up a square foot of the lawn searching for grubs. If fewer than a dozen are found in that square foot, the homeowner is good to go. If he/she finds uncountable masses of grubs, then it's time to apply the insecticide. Grubs, by the way, can be anticipated if you had swarms of beetles around your porch lights in late May or early June. This is true north or south although the beetle and grub species are different. Fall All Season Mow at height of 3.5" Mow at height of 3" for last mow of fall, just before or just after the first frost September September 22 - First day to seed September 1 - September 23 - Fertilize with 3.75 lbs of Nitrogen October October 7 - Last day to seed November November 13 - Fertilize with 3.75 lbs of Nitrogen First: As I recall the summer temps begin to cool off in late August. Is that what your temp monitors suggest for that zip? Anyway the time to seed in spring is as early as practical when the summer heat breaks. Reason? Because that gives you time to redo it if necessary after you see the results. Second: Using the natural approach to fertilizing, the time to winterize is after the last blade of grass stops growing but before the grass turns brown. The idea is to get fertilizer into the roots such that new growth is not stimulated by the fertilizer. The final fertilizer should be fast release, high N. Lastly I notice you said nothing about watering. Watering is the single most important part of lawn care. As long as you have temperature charts built into this, the watering part should be a cinch. Here's what I have written about watering. Watering: Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the daytime air temperature. With temps in the 90s, deep water once per week. With temps in the 80s, deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s, deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70, deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. This deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont, so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall.

Gen B, the fabricators knew we were changing ranges. Unfortunately, the delivery time for the range was much longer than expected. My question is... does it really matter though. Shouldn't the cut be straight either way. What if down the line, say in 5 years or so, you wished to change the range and they didn't make that particular model any longer? If they would have cut it straight it would've have solved a multitude of problems down the line. When the fabricator was here last tuesday he didn't want to say it, however, he alluded to the fact that the overhang on the old range provided a "safety net". I have a feeling that they chipped the side of the cut out when they were fabricating (because it's such a soft stone) and then decided they had to cut it like this to even it out. After he argued with me incessantly stating that "this is how they do it "standard procedure to cut the back smaller and the front larger", he then went on to say he followed the lines of the cabinet. I believe wholeheartedly that once he realized I wasn't buying the "this is how we always do it" story, he then decided to try a different angle (no pun intended) and blame the cabinet people. It was very upsetting. No apology, no accountability and no phone call back to discuss what they are willing to do.