I keep my FP in my house and have had it precititate. My lowest temp might have been 55F. Somewhat related question-- I am now using Peter's HP. Have mixed up a few batches, and it's always been the same 'color'. Last one I made was a different shade of blue. Not darker, just different, and I'm sure I mixed it right. I believe checking the EC would tell me the concentration, but I don't have a meter. Just wondering if the differing color is a known issue with this product. I am storing a portion (of the dry mix) in the house in a plastic tub, and the rest is in the garage. Also, does anyone know if prilled ferts that have been stored for years outside ( dry but hot) are still good?

Evolution, For what it's worth, I happen to really like your product concept which leads to a quick story.... About 15 years ago (give or take a couple), a guy i was working with on a project asked me to help him out with an idea that he had about hurricane protection shutters. His thinking was that the major downside of shutters and plywood (pretty much 100% at the time) was that they covered the window making it impossible to see in or out. He had the idea of building shutters out of polycarbonate that wouldn't ever have to be removed from fixed windows, and when installed over any window wouldn't block the light or the view. My thinking was that he had a heck of a good idea and I offered encouragement and helped him with a few simple calculations and some minor proof of concept ideas. We lost contact not long after and I THINK he was contemplating moving to florida, but don't recall for certain. Anyway my point was that I had to wonder when I was looking at your website. Have to admit it made me wonder... To questions/comments.... 1) Nothing involving storm protection (or bullets, or bombs, etc) is proof. Resistant, yes, proof, no. Laminated glass is shatter-resistant, that's what it's for and there are required tests that exist to confirm. A dual pane impact window is with very few exceptions manufactured with one laminated lite and one non-laminated lite. As I mentioned previously, it's possible for the laminated lite to be mounted as interior or exterior, often depending on how the glass was glazed into the sash. If the laminated lite is inside and the window is broken by an impact then the loose (non laminated) broken glass WILL remain outside the building blocked by the laminated lite that isn't going to shatter. This is the make-up that I personally prefer and would generally recommend, and i have never been shy about telling people that here or real time. If the laminated lite is outside and it takes an impact that is powerful enough to break both windows, then breaking the inner non-laminated lite will result in broken glass inside the home. You have seen the hurricane impact on you tube, so have I, but I haven't seen a video of an impact that shows the glass shattering and flying into a room. In all seriousness I can't find one even though I looked for it. Can you drop a link, I am very curious to see it. I have personally performed, participated in, and/or witnessed impacts over 3000 times. I have also witnessed testing for impacts based on tornado level wind-speeds, but have never performed that test myself. The tornado test is a 12', 15#, 2x4 at 150fps. Interesting thing about the tornado testing was that over half of the impacts that I witnessed (and that was typical), the 2x4 shattered into kindling when it hit the glass and the glass was undamaged. I mentioned earlier that it is entirely possible to manufacture laminated glass that won't break when tested to TAS201 large missile and/or ASTM 1996, any level. I can think of three ways to do it as I type, and while I KNOW for a fact they all work because either I have personally been involved with manufacture and testing it or else coordinated with people who were, they aren't generally available outside of specialized applications. 2} There is no requirement for testing a window for water penetration after impact, primarily because they are two different test requirements from two different agencies. The impact test is all about the product's resistance to penetration by the 2x4. The glass can break, but penetration of the glass isn't allowed. If the interlayer isn't torn then water can't penetrate it, broken glass or not. 3) The requirement for water resistance testing is not related to or is part of the impact test protocol. As mentioned previously, windows are required to be tested for water penetration based on the DP level, and it makes zero difference whether the window is impact resistant or not, other than impact windows often have higher DP than non-impact windows. Although the requirement is based on the DP, this doesn't mean that's the maximum window performance. While I do know specific companies that do test higher than the DP requirement for their impact windows, I have no idea how many actually do so.

The sellers of a place we bought a few years ago as a second home were devout home warranty insurance customers - so they told us. They included a one year policy with our purchase. About 6 months into our new ownership, while washing pots, water started running out of the kitchen sink cabinet and onto the floor. I turned off the water, opened the door, and saw water freely running out of the bottom of the garbage disposal. OK, I thought, fair enough. The place is 20 years old and the unit looks to be original. Need a new one. I started flipping through Yelp to find a plumber and remembered the home warranty policy. I called the company and they gave me the name of a plumber to call. I called and learned that there were no appointments available until the same day next week, 7 days away. I said something like "Are you saying I need to wait a week to get this fixed and be without a kitchen sink?" and the response was "No, we won't fix it on the first visit, we need to determine the cause of the leak. After that, we'll schedule another appointment to come fix it". I hung up, found a plumber who showed up the next morning with a replacement unit in hand and fixed it. I think it was about $225 parts and labor in my high cost of living area, which I thought was quite reasonable and I gladly paid, Which experience would you prefer having?

On our new home. I was able to visit with a technician from the University of AK cold weather housing research center. With over 4 0 years of experience building energy efficient homes around AK. And I spent 2 years in college learning RHVAC. Our walls will consist of. Outside layer of 1/2" cdx plywood over the 2x6 studs, tyvex over the plywood and fiber cement siding. Inside the stud bays is 6" rockwool fire and sound insulation. Then 6 mil visqueen vapor barrier. Here is where things get different. I will install 2" of pinkboard ridgid foam insulation then the visqueen vapor barrier. This is a thermal barrier and extra insulation. I will add 1x3 lathe ran horizontally, 5 rows. Top, bottom, middle and between middle and top, bottom. Then 1x4 lathe ran vertically, 16"oc. Using 6" long screws. So no chance of sagging. Utilities, water lines and electric lines are ran in the middle of the lathe grid. Then sheetrock. This will give me better than r 31 wall insulation. And will blow in 2 7" of cellulose fiber insulation into the attic. For r 7 0 in the attic. This building technique is used in Scandinavian countries. If you can add more insulation into the attic you will save yourself more energy/money. Yes I understand that this is kinda unique in design but I feel confident that the outcome will work well. And help save us more energy/money. For heat we will have in floor hydronic heating. I added 30% more tubing in the floor for more heat mass. The toyo brand boiler will also supply non stop hot water. And we have a fuel oil drip stove, Kuma classic, in our living room. It requires no electricity as we have electric outages often. And we have a nice fire to watch for ambiance. If you can add any energy savings into your home you will be better off. I would suggest that you look into adding new rockwool insulation in the walls. Which I understand that rodents do not like to be around. And then the vapor barrier, ridgid foam. Just install the lathe to fasten the drywall to vertically over the ridgid insulation and drywall