Does upgrading to impact resistant windows make sense?
elise
4 years ago
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elise
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Does it make sense?
Comments (16)Marilyn, so sorry you lost your job... I once reentered the workworld ater 16 years as SAHM, and worked for a temp agency for a few weeks to get my bearings (and my confidence). I found they valued my worth higher than the permanent jobs I was offered even after I paid their cut. A lot of companies use temps around here so they don't have to pay benefits...but the temp agencies are anxious to sign you up if you have good education/experience/skills. I would think loan agencies or anyone offering credit would/could use you...today that covers the spectrum. Hope you succeed soon in getting settled. In my case I sold myself as an ad salesperson to a new city magazine...never had sold anything before...but proved to be good at it...even surprised myself. LOL So look around from another angle...I wonder if you could help people looking to restructure or advise re avoiding foreclosure. maybe a general credit counseling service...I'll bet those businesses are booming nowadays (sad to say). Another thought I had was if you could skew your resume away from mortgages in any way...no lies but just put more emphasis on other work you did. Sure hope something breaks for you soon. josh...See MoreDoes Geothermal make sense?
Comments (12)75 kWh/day is total electrical usage during the single coldest month of the year, but let's say baseline (ignoring greater lighting usage in winter, most of our lights are CFLs) is 34kWh/day in spring when neither heat nor AC required, the heating system requires 20-41 kWh/day during the winter and maybe 10kWh/day for AC when very hot, but most of the time our monthly electrical usage (with 2 kids and an electric dryer doing average of 7 loads of laundry a week, 1 load of dishes a day) is in the 30's. Total electrical usage (not just HVAC) for past 12 months was 17,943 kWh - rates have varied but total paid was $2709.20, or average of 225.77/mo. Our current budget plan monthly payment is set at $236 - in August we will get a credit if we have paid too much since last August. I believe well drilling cost $9000 for 3 wells - but you may pay more than $3000 for 1 well, I don't know if we paid more because one well is 500ft deep and they had to frack, or if we got a "discount" since the rig was here and all 3 were drilled the same day. Prices also could have changed in 7 years. We didn't pay for trenching since my dad did it. You have to ask if prices include excavation/drilling. Estimates we got in 2007 included 4 ton Envision with 80 gal hot water heater app. $35,750 ), 4.5 ton unit (no specs) ranged from $27,500 - $32,500 (I'm looking at my notes), we went with 4 ton Climatemaster and the 2 80-gal hot water tanks, it was quoted at $27,773, I'd have to look at checks to see what we actually paid since that did not include grouting, etc. done by the well drillers. None of the quotes included well drilling or trenching, or electrical work. There was a $2000 rebate from CL&P at the time - federal tax credit was $500 according to quote - I think that was the max available, I'd have to check the 1040 for that year to see if that was what we got or if it was something different. Rebates/credits only figured on cost of equipment, not labor. Not sure what the credits are now....See MoreImpact Windows and Leakage (LONG)
Comments (7)While it is not the norm, the salesperson is 100% correct in that every window will leak under those conditions. Windows are not designed to be bowls in correct. I would encourage your husband to look up the criteria and testing of windows. It will make more sense after that. Here is something that I copied and kept from Oberon. It summarizes quite a few questions for you. In terms of which route to go, some might recommend impact windows and the storm shutters if you really want to protect the home. Some of the benefit of the impact windows is that you need not be home to "activate or pull down" the windows because they are always in place. Here is what Oberon say.... DP and Impact Window Discussion The DP rating of a window or door is based on laboratory pressure testing in pounds per square foot or psf. Air, water, structural is a three-part test that determines much about a window's overall performance. Air infiltration is the first phase, water penetration is next, and structural is the third part of the test. Windows are tested for air infiltration simulating a 25mph wind or a 1.56PSF pressure load - air infiltration is treated separately from both water infiltration and structural and it is independent of the design pressure of the unit. Said again - the air infiltration rate in a window is not based on the design pressure rating of the unit. Both water penetration and structural testing, on the other hand, are based on the window DP rating. Water infiltration is tested at 15% of the design pressure and structural is tested at 150% of DP rating. What this means is that a window with a DP30 is tested for water infiltration at 4.5psf (15% of 30psf) while a window with a DP40 is tested at 6psf (15% of 40). A window with a DP30 rating should be able to keep out rain when it�s driven by 42mph winds and a window with a DP40 should be able to keep out rain when driven by 49mph winds...so while water infiltration is DP related - and air infiltration is not - the nature of air and water infiltration is different. The structural rating of a window is as much about the glass as it is about the frame and sash system. In order to get a higher DP rating the window manufacturer has to consider the thickness and possible heat-strengthening (or tempering) of the glass as well as the use of higher-end hardware and good quality sealants in the frame and sash system. But, interestingly, there is nothing in the structural rating that specifically requires that the unit be air-tight. A window can leak air like a sieve and still achieve an excellent DP rating. Likewise a window that is sealed tightly can have a lower DP rating but excellent air infiltration numbers. Obviously there are also many units that have both excellent air infiltration numbers and a satisfactory DP rating (relating to both structural strength and water infiltration). Simply stated, the relationship between DP and windspeed is -- "the ratios of the design pressures in psf are the square of the ratios of the wind-speeds in mph". A window with a DP30 is rated to a pressure level equivalent to a 110mph windspeed, but it is tested (for structural) at a pressure equivalent to 164mph. A window with a DP40 is rated to a pressure level equivalent to a 127mph windspeed, but it is tested (for structural) at a pressure equivalent to 190mph. So what does the DP50 in the "hurricane resistant windows" actually mean? Not much really. Certainly a DP50 is acceptable in many circumstances, but "hurricane resistant windows" is pretty much meaningless in that the window isn't impact rated - meaning that in the event of a major storm you would still have to either use shutters or plywood to protect your home. Impact (or "hurricane") windows are made with laminated glass, upgraded hardware, upgraded frames and other components, and all sealed in place with some of the strongest silicone (or other) adhesives on the market. Virtually all the major window manufacturers have impact products available. Some perform extremely well, others barely get by. Laminated glass is simply two (or more) lites of glass bonded to a plastic interlayer for strength. Laminated glass is no stronger against breakage than is the glass it is made of. Let me say that again - laminated glass breaks as easily as the glass it is made of. I mention that because many folks have the mistaken impression that laminated glass / impact windows won�t easily break. They will break, but the glass adheres to the plastic interlayer and keeps the envelope of the home closed. There are four major food groups in the impact glass world (a few other ones as well) relating to the interlayers used to manufacture the laminates. First we have PVB or Polyvinyl Butyral. This is the stuff that is in the windshield of your car. It is relatively soft and very flexible, yet it is also tough and doesn�t tear easily. This is probably the most widely used product in the impact glass market since it does great when impacted. It stops whatever hits it and stretches to absorb the impact (such as a persons head in a car accident). PVB is a good product and is the choice for many manufacturers. The second interlayer type is a hybrid of PVB with a layer of PET film between the PVB layers. This is a very tough product and it performs very nicely. The third type of interlayer is called SGP or Sentry Glass Plus. This is quite a bit different from PVB in that it is very stiff and very tough. It is becoming something of the product of choice in some of the toughest applications (including some bullet and bomb resistance applications). It is also can be more than a bit more expensive than PVB and may be overkill for some residential applications � but I think it is ultimately the best product on the market at this date. SGP has become the product of choice for a number of the wood window manufacturers. Although vinyl folks don�t seem to be using it quite as much yet, SGP does seem to be growing in the vinyl market as well. I suspect that one reason SGP is a little behind in vinyl windows is because SGP�s rigidity tends to transfer the impact force to the frame of the window rather than absorbing the impact in the glass as does PVB. While the best vinyl windows can handle the force of an impact when using SGP as the laminate interlayer, not all vinyl windows are strong enough to take that force. As a rule, aluminum windows tend to be pretty strong and can generally use any of the mentioned interlayer laminates. The fourth product line is the resin laminates � where a liquid resin is poured between two lites of glass and allowed to cure. I see liquid resin laminate as the "mom and pop shop" of laminated glass � although some larger manufacturers do use it. For the manufacturer it is cheap, it is easy, and it is an acceptable "mom and pop shop" product. Impact rated windows - or to answer your question - Dade County Approved windows are tested to the same air, water, and structural testing that I mentioned earlier, but in addition they are required to twice successfully stop an 8', 9lb 2x4 that is fired at the window at 50fps. If the impact window is able to stop the 2x4 - without penetration of the glazing - then the unit is subjected to 9000 high and low pressure cycles at up to 100% of the DP rating. If the window manages to stop the two 2x4 impacts, and manages to successfully complete the 9000 pressure cycles, it still has to operate in order to successfully pass the entire testing sequence and get the Miami Dade Approval. There are several advantages to using impact glass rather than shutters � not having to travel for hours to protect your home if you happen to be away for some reason is certainly a huge one � but beyond that: First, and best (and restating), they are passive protection�you don't have to do a thing to protect your house if a storm is coming. If you are out-of-town, the house is protected. Second, (and re-restating) they are passive protection...not just from storms, but also from unfriendly people who might want to enter your home when you are not there. Imagine trying to break thru a window or door that has been designed and built to withstand winds of over 150mph and at the same time to withstand impacts from a 2x4 projectile that turns plywood into kindling. Burglars look elsewhere. Laminated glass, used in impact windows, blocks 99% of UV light from entering your home and also acts as a significant sound barrier as well. Homes that are near airports that are remodeled for soundproofing are retrofitted with laminated glass for that reason. But, those homes generally use a much thinner version than is used for impact resistance. Unfortunately, looting is sometimes a problem after a major storm, and again that passive protection that impact windows gives you will help keep your belongings in your home long after the storm. The folks who do the deed are going to look at the homes that don't have that sort of protection. Also, those folks who use shutters or plywood to protect their homes are going to be living in a windowless cave as long as they are in the house with the coverings in place. Folks with impact windows don't have to do that. From a cost versus value comparison, IF you are planning to replace your windows anyway and you are planning to go with higher-end windows, then replacing your existing windows with impact units is cost-competitive with getting impact shutters. If you are not planning to replace your windows - except to install impact units - then the cost of window replacement can be significantly more than the cost of installing shutters....See Moreimpact resistance vs heat transfer
Comments (4)Yep, "lite" is the correct spelling/usage for a window glass pane. And yep, laminated glass does block 99% (or a little bit better) of UV light from entering your home thru the windows but keep in mind that UV blocking isnÂt the same as keeping heat out of your home; consider UV blocking to be a side benefit. In terms of heat transfer, there are two aspects to consider - U-value and Solar Heat Gain Coefficient or SHGC. In the environment that you are building, SHCG is more of a consideration than is U-value. In a nutshell, U-value is concerned with far infrared heat and SHGC is concerned with near infrared heat. Near, or shortwave, infrared is direct solar gain. This is what you feel when standing directly in a sunbeam. This is primarily what you need to stop from coming into your home in the Virgin Islands. Heat is transferred in three ways, conduction, radiation, and convection. Conduction is the transfer of heat energy thru a substance by atomic or molecular interactions - or, more simply put - when you touch the aluminum handle of a frying pan on the stove and the handle is hot to the touch, then you are experiencing conductive heat transfer. Convection is transfer of heat energy thru mass motion of a fluid (yes, air is a fluid) resulting from the movement of the heated fluid from the source of the heat. An example is warm air rising and displacing cooler air which then falls and warms up and then rises replacingÂetc. Radiation is heat transfer by the emission of electromagnetic waves which carry energy away from the emitting object. In other words, when you stand in direct sunlight and you become warm, you are being warmed by radiation. About 2/3's of the heat energy that enters thru your windows does so as radiation. The remaining 1/3 is conduction. By limiting direct radiant solar gain (SHGC) you will be affecting the significant portion of unwanted heat from entering your home. Your current Schuco windows with dual pane and LowE and argon fill are designed to limit heat transfer including radiant (LowE coating), conductive (air space with argon fill), near infrared (LowE coating), and far infrared (LowE and airspace with argon fill). Or, more simply, your current windows are designed to perform both winter and summer. They keep heat out and they keep heat in  depending on the season and the requirement. In your new environment keeping heat out is what really matters  not so much keeping it in. As you may have already noticed, it is the LowE coating that limits the direct solar gain that will be warming the inside of your home when the windows are closed. And to finally address your question directly, if you were to opt for a single laminated lite, rather than the IG units of your current windows, is it possible to get the same level of performance that you get with the IG windows? Yes and noÂyou wonÂt get quite the same overall performance with a single laminated lite that you do with an IG because with a single laminated lite you donÂt get the U-value advantage that you get with the IG  but as mentioned, you probably donÂt need it in the Virgin Islands. You can get some very nice SHGC numbers though when using a single laminated lite with the coating laminated to the interior of the laminated "sandwich". SHGC numbers that are very close to those that you can get with a dual pane IG. A number of the laminated glass manufacturers laminate glass with softcoat LowE between the lites. Also, there are some window manufacturers who offer tinted or reflective hardcoat LowE coatings that would be on the exterior of the glass. The primary positive of the exterior hardcoat is that it actually blocks a bit more solar gain that the internalized softcoat. The negative is that being highly reflective  and often tinted  in some cases it can look like you have colored mirrors in your windows. You can often see this mirrored effect in high-rise buildings that have reflective coatings. The softcoat LowE will be much more color neutral  even unnoticeable, depending on the coating  but the SHGC may be a bit less than the exterior hardcoat performance. There are two primary products available in laminated glass  Polyvinyl Butyral or PVB, and Sentry Glass Plus or SGP. Another little interesting fact concerning your question is that the largest manufacturer of residential LowE coatings in the world (who also happens to have a laminating division), does not offer a PVB laminate with an internal LowE coating. They do laminate a LowE coating inside with SGP interlayer though - and which is readily available in a monolithic version from several window manufacturers. What is interesting is that LowE coatings tend to corrode when exposed to moisture. PVB is very hygroscopic in the right environment whereas SGP doesnÂt seem to absorb moisture nearly as much  so one has to wonder if there is concern (with at least one company) that placing a LowE coating between against a PVB interlayer could eventually be a problem? While they are apparently happy using SGP against their LowE coatings? Something to consider... Okay, this is really long (typical), but I have attempted to offer a bit of background rather than a simple "yes/no" so that when you are chatting with window / contractor / designer folks you will have a better understanding of how these things work. Please feel free to ask more questions if you have some (and after this I suspect that you will)Â...See Moreelise
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