I had the same problem. Had old strip flooring that was over 100 yrs old. At one point someone replaced a section with 3/4 thick wood floor but you wouldnt know until it was tore up. When I laid all the flooring an got to the the hallway I was up about 1/2 in. I shimmed up an 1/8 in then stripped a blank of the new floor on the table saw to build a thin transition piece. There is a slight raise but everything is the same level and looks nice. So in short just use a reducer.

I have not heard of that brand but we purchased the Bella Cera Ruscello flooring and when the boxes showed up it said the dreaded "Made in China" on them. What could I do at that point? We had it installed and are very happy. There is not one piece in the 1100 sq ft that has a flaw. Now, it has only been a few months, but no problems so far... And we also did about 60 sq ft of LM St Laurent flooring in our vanity area almost 2 years ago, it was "Made in China", which I did not know until later, no problems with it either.

SJ McCarthy, our contract is stated we are responsible for the materials and we pay for the labor. Unfortunately we never met nor discuss with the owner but only discussed in details ( in the proposal) with the project manager who is the solely the carpenter.) We just found out there were a lot of the DETAILS from the proposal were not explained (per the PM,but who knows) in detail to the owner or almost like "bait and switch" - for example like item #2- he spent more time because the owner did not get him another helper to help him- I told him this should not be the customer's expenses-Anyway we are willing to pay for it. The owner was offering to renew and establish a new contract from the original contact ( we felt that he cherry picking the items from the proposal, we marked them up then again he decided not to included) for the unfinished works . Once he agreed in our 2nd meeting (another example: he agreed tiling our study room to be included from the original contact in our 1st meeting then when he write the REVISED CONTRACT- he wants to charge us ), but again we are facing the same old stories-he tried to change the wording. We were burned so many times and now we diligently review line by line knowing the owner's personality. He kept saying he lived by the contract-then I told him then he should honor the low estimated to install our engineering hardwood floor including removing the carpet-in the end he says he would honor but he did not including the cost in the new REVISED contract which we add into it - we are so tired with his games. So now we put a contingency - once we agree with the new contract, no more additional expenses from the previous work was done- and we do agree that we need to be notified first and need both signatures for additional expenses from the new contract. and no more point finger of "not included" since we have discussed in detailed and are in the contract. The new addition has a hardwood floor installed - with Dri-core. Once hardwood floor was installed- they are some areas squeak- we were told by PM -put a marked up then he would fasten without explaining to us-these would be additional ridiculous charges (PM told the owner, too-we told PM that they should explain it to us- ) Regarding the installing the engineering hardwood floor is for our existing rooms(concrete slabs that has plywood already)- we are told just to put a vapour barrier. Is it possible to let me know what brands for the glues have to be moisture resistant ($2/sf) or moisture PROOF ($3/sf).? The manufacture instruction suggests to use Franklin Tongue and Groove adhesive (cross linking polyaliphactic emulsion glue) www.titebond.com -any suggestions? This Applachian engineering hardwood floor - FLOATING only needs GLUE between the wood (tongue and groove per the manufacture manual ) then would be FLOAT - this is not to be GLUE DOWN on our concrete floor (could be glue down if necessary but not in our case). Here is the website- on PAGE 9 http://www.appalachianflooring.com/uploads/general/documents/engineered-installation-guide.pdf We trust the PM and we pay for it- we just want to move on and complete the project-It has been almost 10 months. We have to do what we have to do to protect ourselves now- The owner refuses to install our towel bar in our new shower without charging us, and we told him we will take care them by ourselves. I will update this post and hoping for a better solution. Thank you

I am thinking about using a shellac finish and sealer on this hardwood, which will be the floor for a kid's room. This Bullseye traditional finish and sealer product from Zinsser seems widely used and well liked: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Zinsser-Bulls-Eye-Clear-Shellac-Actual-Net-Contents-32-fl-oz/3449840 This particular product says it is clear, and I think there is an amber tinted version. Can shellac be applied without problems to hardwood? I believe I could put poly on top of the shellac and be done. Is this right? Any tips or warnings? There is also this Sealcoat by Zinsser, which does not appear to be shellac based. https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Zinsser-854-Sealcoat-Universal/dp/B000C02BXW/ref=sr_1_3_mod_primary_new?dchild=1&keywords=zinsser+shellac+sealer&qid=1610393849&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sr=8-3 Would the Sealcoat be a better option to just put over the hardwood? I have read elsewhere that shellac can be applied over poly, which is good since I don't know what is on the existing floor. Other places say shellac could be sanded after application, so when we have a chance to completely sand and refinish this floor, I would probably want to do this. Does this sound like an acceptable temporary fix, or is there something I should consider before proceeding? Would shellac ruin or damage the hardwood. I am also thinking about LVP, but I am concerned this hardwood floor is not flat enough for that. I understand the subfloor for LVP must be 3/16" within about a 1 foot diameter to work. Any ideas about this? Is there a way eyeball this floor to determine whether click LVP could be put down? Thanks!