Acclimating: The flooring has grooves on the bottom side which allows air to flow through, no need to open the bundles. Let it sit inside the house.

Regarding finishes, what is available in your area? Bona only?

So I have one vote for "ok to put it down right away" and one "let the bundles sit inside for a while before installing".... Since they all seem to want to put it down and leave it for a while after installing, what are the risks of that?

G & S, we're in the Dallas area, so would expect they have access to anything they need to get. I'm certainly not tied in any way to Bona, but the Traffic HD keeps coming up in the forums as a good water based poly. That said, I'm looking to specify the BEST product for oil or water depending on which way we decide to go. A little extra expense doesn't bother me, after all of the money that's already going into the flooring, the finish, which is key to its performance is relatively inexpensive.

Thanks for any/all thoughts!!

Regardless of what product I recommend. There needs to be a floor mechanic in the Dallas area that has knowledge of the product. Otherwise, the product is worthless under an in-experience mechanic.

A wood floor that is not acclimated before being installed - what could go wrong? Everything - or nothing. Is warranty maintained? Probably not. Will the flooring professional TAKE ON the warranty they just voided? Ohhh that's a tricky one. A few will, the rest will not. If they fail - and it is ALWAYS an option in tricky areas like Texas - who picks up the tab? How much effort will you have to throw at it to GET that tab paid for? Lots.

It is possible this will work out wonderfully - and it is possible this could go horribly wrong. The "warehouse" conditioning will be factor #1 (no one will tell you if the warehouse is strictly controlled). The house condition will be factor #2 (must have HVAC up and running - including strong humidity control - for as much as 10 days prior to the flooring installation). Then the moisture content of the plywood is factor #3.

To get the "lay it same day" to work without effort means you have to have all THREE factors lined up and in agreement (warehouse conditioning matches house conditions and plywood's moisture content [MC] is LESS THAN 3% of the wood at time of install).

Sounds like fun doesn't it? I prefer to hear the high-end flooring professionals discuss PROPER racking of the wood in the home UNTIL it reaches the appropriate MC level. That could happen in 3 days. It could take 29 days. It all depends on the condition of the wood when it arrives.

Go ahead and discuss what happens IF things go pear shaped. Get it in writing. If you push that hard for it, they will simply do the "simplest" thing = bring it in, let it sit, do the tests and then install.

And to be clear, oil based finishes can keep you out of the house for as much as 6 weeks due to smell (when people are sensitive, they have to leave until the smell has dissipated).

G&S Floor points something out: if the floor professional doesn't UNDERSTAND the finish in her/his hand, s/he is BOUND to mess it up!!!! Whether it is good or average, the professional doing the job will dictate the final performance. I've seen enough problems from "oil guys" trying to "figure out" water based products. They really don't get the difference. Which is why they are hopeless at fixing their own mistakes - they didn't get it the first time; what makes you think they'll get it the second (or third, or fourth) time.

Thanks, I'm hoping to make their choice and experience in using the finish products a part of my selection process. Can you share the specific products I should be looking for? I have no issues discussing/specifying any particular step or item in the process if I believe it's best practice. Of course, I'm hoping to find a flooring contractor who brings that on their own - that's what I'm looking for in interviewing companies. In the meantime, I'm trying to become as educated as possible about the process/products and practices. Thanks!

You are listening for these names (in no particular order):

Bona

Loba

Glitsa (Swedish finish with HEAVY odor)

Rubio Monocoat (or hardwax finishes of any sort)

One thing you can do is work in REVERSE. Instead of dictating what you want, you can ask the bidders what their FAVOURITE materials are - and why. The guys who start spewing off things like "Minwax", "DuraSeal" or 'Varathane/Rustoleum' or any other off-the shelf product lines then you can kick them to the curb. Don't even look up these products.

Write down the names of things THEY like to work with and then investigate whether or not those products are HIGH END or not.

Ask if they work with the stains PROVIDED by the finish manufacturer. That's a big "eye opener". So many floor "dudes" will work with Minwax stains (or DuraSeal) and then use the "finish" the client wants. They will mix and match their chemicals without knowing the HUGE risk they are taking.

The "good guys" work with the product LINE required. From start to finish. Primer/sealant + stain + finish = all from the same manufacturer.

These are the things you are listening for. Try not to dictate materials. You will find may "dudes" will simply nod "Yah I can do that" when in fact they have NEVER touched the stuff in their life - let alone done the extensive training needed for the product.

My vote to go ahead and put it down right away was based on the Moisture reading when the floor is delivered. if its within a few points of the subfloor then its already acclimated, and since its not a prefinished floor, its going to get sanded , it will be fine.

Thanks Cancork! That's really helpful guidance. I'm a big believer in using a "system" whenever available (like roofing, etc).

Thanks Greg, will definitely be sure they're checking the moisture content!

Another process area that they seem to differ on is nails vs. staples for the planks. What do you all recommend?

Should also mention that flooring will be white oak....

The manufacturer will list what type of fasteners, the length and the pattern/distance. The substrate will help clue you into which is better. OSB is nasty stuff with HORRIBLE grab. Smooth-side-up plywood is a much better product which should be able to handle/grab onto either fastener.

Again...it comes down to the manufacturer and the surface it is sitting on. Then it comes down to personal preference of the installer. A high-end professional won't need you to think these things through for him/her. S/he will already have things well in hand.

Osb is a fine substrate for installing hardwood floors on. In fact it might be better than some of the crap plywood being sold today. Why on earth would you use "smooth-side-up" plywood?

The acclimation you've been recommended to use is generally how we've done floors forever EXCEPT when using wider planks. As was noted above, have the plywood and wood checked. If they're too far apart the area can be dehumidified to bring the plywood moisture down and/or the wood will add moisture if it's particularly dry. Make sure the contractor is putting a vapor/moisture barrier (not retarder) between the concrete and the plywood. I don't recommend any barrier between the wood and plywood.

Some pros have been burned using (probably cheap) water based finishes and refuse to use anything other than oil based. Others think you should use only the newest technology finishes and exclusively use water based. We use both. With a stained, hand-scraped White Oak, I would choose oil based polyurethane. No water based finish compares to the durability of oil modified. Considering the cost, it's a no-brainer unless you have special circumstances.

As to staples vs. nails, we've used both and seen little difference in the performance. My preference would be for nails but the industry seems to have moved more toward staples.

Thanks Johnson Flooring!! We're looking at 4" or 5" planks. Does that qualify in your "wider plank" comment? Have also heard from all of the contractors that the 5" move around a LOT more, and will show more gaps as the seasons change. Know that wood is always moving around (as is our house;)). Does that make sense?

When going wider than 4" I prefer to either glue the wood in addition to nailing or screw and plug. I would stick with 4".

I'm located north of San Antonio and all the site finish floors we install, we put the bundles in the home for at lease 3-4 days prior to install. It's very humid in this state and the wood needs to acclimate to your home.
Wish I would have seen this thread sooner as I can recommend a flooring company located out of Rockwall. The owner worked for us for several years prior to relocating closer to his family. He opened his own flooring store and has done an awesome job in that location. He's very knowledgeable on wood flooring. If you're still looking for bids please give him a call. His business name is PK's Floor USA. Patrick Kelly,

2845 Ridge Rd #207
Rockwall, Texas, TX 75032

(214) 771-3872

Tell him Adam with Cinar sent you his way. He'll take good care of you.

Thanks Adam, still taking bids and will definitely give him a call!

Hi Adam, talked to Patrick yesterday and he's coming over to look at our job next week. Seem like a good guy, thanks for the referral!. Will be interested to hear his recommendations.

Why bother with all those extra steps, costs and concerns? Go with a high quality unfinished engineered. Plywood and solid hardwood was the going method, but it's being replaced slowly in some markets as people become aware of alternatives.

Unfinished Engineered

A moisture sandwich of plywood and solid wood will only rot a bit slower. Engineered, with a good quality polyurethane glue, after moisture testing the slab, is the absolute best way to go with slab. I've seen and smelt what was torn out in a ''plywood nail down on slab'', and it ain't pretty.