Finish Your Floors to Perfection With Parquet
Add value and gorgeous detail to your home with timeless and elegant parquet flooring in a classic design
Gabrielle Di Stefano
November 28, 2012
Houzz Contributor
Parquet flooring can bring beautiful timber floors up a notch with its incredible detailing. So many designs are now available, from the traditional basket or brick look to updated chevron and herringbone designs. Each beautiful and intricate design can add value and interest to your home.
Originally a French feature dating from 1684, parquet flooring is made from solid blocks of hardwoods, laid over tie bars in square, triangular or lozenge designs, then nailed in place. This style of flooring became popular with the wealthy, as it did not trap moisture and encourage rotting joists the way marble flooring did. Today this elegant design can add historic interest to modern, contemporary or traditional homes.
Originally a French feature dating from 1684, parquet flooring is made from solid blocks of hardwoods, laid over tie bars in square, triangular or lozenge designs, then nailed in place. This style of flooring became popular with the wealthy, as it did not trap moisture and encourage rotting joists the way marble flooring did. Today this elegant design can add historic interest to modern, contemporary or traditional homes.
Definitions. Purists use the word "parquetry" to refer to timber flooring or furniture with angular and geometric patterns, while "marquetry" refers to curved shapes. "Parquet" is the term used for flooring. These days any kind of woodblock floor pattern can be called "parquet flooring."
Shown: This classic basket-weave, panel parquet flooring is still is one of the most popular designs. In this sophisticated setting it grounds the room while harmonizing with the glazed French paneling.
Shown: This classic basket-weave, panel parquet flooring is still is one of the most popular designs. In this sophisticated setting it grounds the room while harmonizing with the glazed French paneling.
Choosing your timber. Shop around for your parquet flooring. Timber choice is just as important as design.
Is the wood domestic or exotic? Is it engineered or solid? What is the overall thickness and length of the timber? Will the wear layer work for high-traffic areas? Is the timber finished in gloss, semigloss or wax? Choose the materials and finish you want before deciding on your design.
The number-one issue when choosing your flooring is the wear layer. Every other detail is about personal choice. If you know you can repair and refinish your parquet flooring again and again, you'll have spent your money wisely.
Shown: The brick pattern used in this parquet flooring instantly tells us this is 21st-century architecture.
Is the wood domestic or exotic? Is it engineered or solid? What is the overall thickness and length of the timber? Will the wear layer work for high-traffic areas? Is the timber finished in gloss, semigloss or wax? Choose the materials and finish you want before deciding on your design.
The number-one issue when choosing your flooring is the wear layer. Every other detail is about personal choice. If you know you can repair and refinish your parquet flooring again and again, you'll have spent your money wisely.
Shown: The brick pattern used in this parquet flooring instantly tells us this is 21st-century architecture.
Using engineered wood. If you decide to use engineered hardwood for your parquet floors, keep a few things in mind. The thickness of the floor can range from 10 to 20 millimeters total. Since the top layer is actual wood, it should be as thick as possible. When the top layer is thinner than .6 millimeters, it makes it very difficult to refinish after damage. Aim for the top layer of your veneer to be between 2 and 6 millimeters.
The layers under the veneer also matter. There can be three to 12 layers of plywood and unfinished wood, so ask for as many layers as your budget can handle for the best strength and durability.
Shown: The panel parquet flooring in this Scandinavian-inspired room has a lozenge (diamond) design done in a contemporary way.
The layers under the veneer also matter. There can be three to 12 layers of plywood and unfinished wood, so ask for as many layers as your budget can handle for the best strength and durability.
Shown: The panel parquet flooring in this Scandinavian-inspired room has a lozenge (diamond) design done in a contemporary way.
Block versus panel. If you choose solid wood in a block or panel style for parquet flooring, it's worth looking into a company that does specialized installations.
Panel parquet flooring uses preassembled squares in prearranged patterns; block parquet flooring has individual pieces of parquetry, precut in custom lengths and widths. In both techniques, each individual block or panel is glued and pinned to a plywood substrate onsite. The pieces are then sanded and finished with the desired lacquer.
Shown: In a highly traditional setting, parquet flooring interspersed with tiles may help break up darker timbers.
Panel parquet flooring uses preassembled squares in prearranged patterns; block parquet flooring has individual pieces of parquetry, precut in custom lengths and widths. In both techniques, each individual block or panel is glued and pinned to a plywood substrate onsite. The pieces are then sanded and finished with the desired lacquer.
Shown: In a highly traditional setting, parquet flooring interspersed with tiles may help break up darker timbers.
Finishing parquet flooring. The finish you choose requires careful thought. A film-forming product like varnish works great for high-traffic areas. Polyurethane varnishes in matte, satin or gloss finishes tend to be the most common — all need around two to three coats. Penetrating oils, like a hard wax finish, enhance the look and feel of natural wood and dry to a satin matte sheen.
If your parquet flooring is made of unfinished solid wood, allow a minimum of 36 hours for the adhesive to cure before applying seals or waxes.
Shown: Increasingly popular, this thoroughly modern chevron (also called a point de hongrie) design is simple but highly effective.
If your parquet flooring is made of unfinished solid wood, allow a minimum of 36 hours for the adhesive to cure before applying seals or waxes.
Shown: Increasingly popular, this thoroughly modern chevron (also called a point de hongrie) design is simple but highly effective.
Gluing. The glues used for laying parquet flooring can vary in quality, so it's best to take advice from your installer. If parquet flooring is applied directly over a concrete slab, make sure to apply two coats of epoxy membrane so the wood doesn't buckle from moisture later on.
Both panel- and block-style parquetry pieces need to sit in the room for at least 72 hours before installation so the timber can adjust to the room temperature.
Shown: The different tones of this Brazilian walnut block parquet flooring pop in a herringbone pattern. The border defines separate spaces in the long hallway.
Both panel- and block-style parquetry pieces need to sit in the room for at least 72 hours before installation so the timber can adjust to the room temperature.
Shown: The different tones of this Brazilian walnut block parquet flooring pop in a herringbone pattern. The border defines separate spaces in the long hallway.
Laying out the design. When a parquet design is highly intricate, the main objective is to keep the parquet squares symmetrical with the walls.
In this photo, the staircase serves as the focal point of the room, so the pieces needed to be lined up with the staircase rather than the walls. To help with this, a border was added to the periphery of the floor.
Shown: The high-gloss varnish on this flooring makes for an extremely hard-wearing surface — great in an entrance hall that sees a lot of traffic.
In this photo, the staircase serves as the focal point of the room, so the pieces needed to be lined up with the staircase rather than the walls. To help with this, a border was added to the periphery of the floor.
Shown: The high-gloss varnish on this flooring makes for an extremely hard-wearing surface — great in an entrance hall that sees a lot of traffic.
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hi @citizencain - we are doing the same; so excited. What lengths and widths did you decide on for your herringbone?