We had the same problem. I arrived right after the floor had been stained. The crew had left to let the stain dry and it was a Friday night so they were not returning until Monday. I opened the door to the kitchen and was surprised to see globs of un -wiped stain around the island and all around the base cabinets. I remembered I had a roll of paper towels in the car and in my socks I went around every base cabinet and wiped up the extra stain. I then wiped behind my footprints as I exited. I also had numerous swirl marks and even burn marks that did not take stain. I contacted my builder and met with him and the flooring company. The flooring company argued with me and would not correct it before the poly went on. I picked my battles. I knew it was unacceptable but I had so many other problems with my build, I let it go. We had several plumbing leaks on the hardwood before we moved in and I had an independent flooring person give a quote to repair the damage. He mentioned the sloppy sanding and stain job. It bothers me every time I look at my floors in my kitchen and bathroom. I am so glad I wiped up the excess stain as there are some areas I missed and the crew had no intention of correcting it before the poly went on. At least the floors are not a total disaster. Have them correct it.

Most people would accept what you have there. Maple is an extremely difficult floor to finish on site, due to the tight grain and the light color. Perhaps it could have been a little flatter, but it is not terrible. The staining could be a burn mark, but without seeing it up close, there's no way to be sure. Nice floor.

ok, this is an area where I actually know something! I sold and spec'ed hardwood for a custom shop before my mommy-life. The information you are getting here is correct. Engineered floors will give you 1-2 refinishings ON A PERFECT SUBFLOOR. One of the issues that sometimes arises if there are inconsistanies in the height of your subfloor. Because there is thinner wood wearlayer (before you get to the engineered wood) there is the chance that you can damage the floor irreparably when you sand it. Now I only saw this saw this happen twice, once on a loft job and once in an older home. The loft was more subtle as it was over concrete, the old house more obvious as they were DIYers and picked engineered flooring to try to negate their irregular subfloor (they neglected to tell us that that was why they chose engineered, we would have talked them out of it had we seen the floor first) Neither of their claims to the manufacturer were fully settled because both times they did not follow the guidelines for floor prep. The loft job was also a materials only job for us with their GC laying the floors but he insisted he knew what he was doing. A good engineered floor will not be cheaper than most of your nail down options because the production costs are higher. Now having said that, GOOD engineered floors certainly have their place in places where you can't put traditional hardwood due to height restrictions or concrete subfloors. My boss had a great engineered floor in his basement and it survived a flood remarkably well (it was ash, Kahrs brand out of Scandinavia and one of the beefier engineered floors and one of the pioneers) My Grandmother also had a Kahrs floor in her ground suite condo and she LOVED it and I was impressed by the milling. I'm considering it for our basement because it's warmer and less echo-y than laminate There has been a lot of 2nd rate engineered flooring coming out of China and being labeled for all sorts of different companies. You should be able to tell an engineered sample because the layers are sandwiched together and the tongue will be a different wood than the top (showing) layer. Distressed finishes are usually more expensive because of the extra step in manufacturing to make it distressed. That is different than just getting a lower grade of hardwood like a rustic or tavern grade (in solid hardwood). Those grades have more character but they often don't carry a warranty and generally have a higher waste percentage. Another thing to think about---if you ever have to replace part of the floor, you will always be able to replicate 3/4" thick hardwood but engineered floors are more like tile, they change and get discontinued over the years. You could go pre-finished, save the hassle of site finishing but with the thicker wear-layer a 3/4" nail down floor offers. Only you will know if you can handle beveling or not. The changes in milling the last 10 years are huge. The bevel in your better milled wood is tiny. I like Canadian mills, Model or Mirage for pre-finished. Remember that if you ever re-finish, the bevel will disappear and you will, essentially have a site finished floor. One benefit that many people don't know about? With a prefinished tongue and grooved floor you can have a good installer cut out a single board (or more) from your floor if it gets damaged which is why we did a fair bit of pre-finished in new homes since inevitably we would get call-backs at move in to repair trade damage (@#$%^ plumbers and their big wrenches!). Prefinished hardwood deals the best with shinkage and expansion issues because the finish is on individual boards. Site finished floors are more labor intensive but the materials are cheaper (apples to apples). They are what many people consider the gold standard however there are more steps and you don't always know how it's going to look until it's done. There is more chance of finish contamination and trade damage during the rest of the building process. We refinished 100 year old floors. I loved the idea that there wasn't 4 generations of carpet and crap in the landfill. Definitely a forever floor and it can usually be re-sanded for all but the very worst water damage (think entire house under water for a few days) If you are going with a wide plank, keep in mind your species and humidity level (and your ability to keep humidity stable). The wider the plank (with 3/4" thick flooring), the more obvious shrinking and expanding will be. If you take a 2" wide board and it shrinks 2%, it isn't very noticeable. If you take a 6" wide board and it shrinks 2% the gaping will be more noticeable and in the case of a site finished floor *could* pull your finish apart. You'll need to find a flooring contractor in your area with lots of experience. Most of the best hardwood shops ONLY do hardwood. Beware of carpet shops and many of the big box stores in many instances. Make sure they are accredited with the NWFA (national wood flooring association) http://www.nwfa.org/member/ good luck!

This looks like top nailed thin slat flooring. It is most likely square edge with no tongue and groove, and was 3/8" thick originally. That is my best guess. Whether or not that is true, my advice is to inspect every square inch for any nail heads that are close to the surface of the wood and to sink those below the surface before you sand. You will then need to sink any nailheads that become exposed during the sanding. These I call 'shiners' for obvious reasons. Be careful in what 'putty' you choose to fill any holes. Some wood fillers will seal the wood surface and prevent any stain from penetrating the wood; you could end up with an unsightly end result. You need to use a wood filler that you can then sand flush with the wood surface during your final prep and be confident that you have not sealed the wood, nor left any stray. Not all wood fillers take stain properly, no matter what the manufacturer claims. Test everything for compatibility before you commit to your product selections.